Ess Gremlin NEED HELP

[wholesome_folsom]

I recently bought a 2020 jeep gladiator sport used with 57k miles. Within the first few days I noticed the service ess light would come on followed by drivability issues. I used my warranty and after a lot of back and fourth a shop determined I had a cracked cam phaser and timing issues. They then decided to give me a brand new 0 mile long block from the dealer. Since then the truck drives AMAZING! However, the service ess light eventually popped back up along with random chimes throughout my drive. It never comes on at start up only eventually within 5-10 min and stays on. It seems to come on almost every drive. I replaced the main battery and aux battery. It went away for 4 days then came back. I even put 2 brand new hood sensors in yesterday to see. I need any help if possible. My mechanic scanned it the other day and no codes…..please help.

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[Lost1wing]

We can help but we need more information. You will need to do some testing with a VOM.

Start with checking your connections. All battery posts a the fender ground and fuse array. Especially if that was the way the Aux battery was accessed. What does the vehicle voltage read? Engine running and engine off.

 

[DylanM]

What does the ESS status page on your instrument cluster say? Does it list a reason why ESS is unavailable?

In addition to checking connections as recommended above, check that you didn't accidentally pop one of the Z fuses when you swapped out the batteries.

Try resetting the IBS too if it was not already performed during the battery replacement. To reset, unplug the small wire connector from the sensor for twenty seconds then reconnect it. It'll often take several days of normal driving for the IBS to relearn and for ESS to return to normal function if that was the problem.

 

[wholesome_folsom]

We can help but we need more information. You will need to do some testing with a VOM.

Start with checking your connections. All battery posts a the fender ground and fuse array. Especially if that was the way the Aux battery was accessed. What does the vehicle voltage read? Engine running and engine off.

Thanks for your reply. I don’t own a VOM… I need to buy one to be able to figure that out the engine swap is still under warranty. It was done a few weeks ago. My hope is to bring it in soon for him to look it over.

 

[wholesome_folsom]

What does the ESS status page on your instrument cluster say? Does it list a reason why ESS is unavailable?

In addition to checking connections as recommended above, check that you didn't accidentally pop one of the Z fuses when you swapped out the batteries.

Try resetting the IBS too if it was not already performed during the battery replacement. To reset, unplug the small wire connector from the sensor for twenty seconds then reconnect it. It'll often take several days of normal driving for the IBS to relearn and for ESS to return to normal function if that was the problem.

It says “SERVICE ESS”/START STOP UNAVAILABLE “

 

[Lost1wing]

It says “SERVICE ESS”/START STOP UNAVAILABLE “

If you had this message before the engine replacement amd no other work qas performed, I would suspect one of your batteries has failed. If this started after the engine replacement, it could be one of your batteries or something induced dur the engine swap. Fuse array? I would do some research on Fuse array, ESS, Aux Battery and IBS. That way when the shop looks over their work you can be prepared what to tell them and how it could relate to the engine swap.

Continued driving with that message is risky. It could be followed by Aux switch failure( if equipped), random lights flashing on the dash, a no start or the pull over now message.

 

[wholesome_folsom]

If you had this message before the engine replacement amd no other work qas performed, I would suspect one of your batteries has failed. If this started after the engine replacement, it could be one of your batteries or something induced dur the engine swap. Fuse array? I would do some research on Fuse array, ESS, Aux Battery and IBS. That way when the shop looks over their work you can be prepared what to tell them and how it could relate to the engine swap.

Continued driving with that message is risky. It could be followed by Aux switch failure( if equipped), random lights flashing on the dash, a no start or the pull over now message.

Both batteries are brand new.

 

[Lost1wing]

Both batteries are brand new.

That is why you need a meter, to see what happened during the battery replacement. A bad fuse array could be your issue. If it is, your problems may get worse. Both new batteries could have been sitting on a shelf and discharged. Batteries should be fully charged before installing. If a shop did it for you, I would bet they didn't charge them.

This is another start over case I believe.

If you are handy, it's not hard. I suggest getting a VOM and an AGM battery charger. Lots of info on that here. While you charge the batteries, you can test the fuse array. How the fuse array goes bad? Battery cables touched inappropriate places and depending on the cable that shorted will point to the failed part of the fuse array.

Maybe you could get lucky and find a loose cable or battery terminal. Or maybe get away with charging both battweies and doing an IBS reset.

We would need more info to help you figure this out.

 

[Badunit]

Bad Z fuse (fuse N3) will keep the Aux positive side isolated from the main battery and the alternator. The aux battery will discharge with no way to be recharged by the alternator. It runs a bunch of the electronics so those things will start getting glitchy. Your mention of it working fine for 4 days then going glitchy seems to fit this diagnosis from the other side of the internet. N3 is also the fuse that will blow if someone shorts the positive cable to ground accidentally when swapping batteries.

Nothing in your original description of your problem sounded like an engine problem. Maybe it had a problem, maybe not. Either way, you got a fresh new one for free.

 

[Lost1wing]

Bad Z fuse (fuse N3) will keep the Aux positive side isolated from the main battery and the alternator. The aux battery will discharge with no way to be recharged by the alternator. It runs a bunch of the electronics so those things will start getting glitchy. Your mention of it working fine for 4 days then going glitchy seems to fit this diagnosis from the other side of the internet. N3 is also the fuse that will blow if someone shorts the positive cable to ground accidentally when swapping batteries.

Nothing in your original description of your problem sounded like an engine problem. Maybe it had a problem, maybe not. Either way, you got a fresh new one for free.

This is the likely culprit. How it happened?? If it is indeed the fuse array, you would still need to charge both batteries. Get a VOM and an AGM battery charger. Toss them under the backseat for future troubleshooting!

 

[jebiruph]

I recently bought a 2020 jeep gladiator sport used with 57k miles. Within the first few days I noticed the service ess light would come on followed by drivability issues. I used my warranty and after a lot of back and fourth a shop determined I had a cracked cam phaser and timing issues. They then decided to give me a brand new 0 mile long block from the dealer. Since then the truck drives AMAZING! However, the service ess light eventually popped back up along with random chimes throughout my drive. It never comes on at start up only eventually within 5-10 min and stays on. It seems to come on almost every drive. I replaced the main battery and aux battery. It went away for 4 days then came back. I even put 2 brand new hood sensors in yesterday to see. I need any help if possible. My mechanic scanned it the other day and no codes…..please help.

You're probably having misfires or other engine related issues. For example, miscellaneous misfires will disable ESS before there are enough misfires to trigger a check engine light and a trouble code. When it happened to me, I used jscan's live monitoring to see what was happening.

 

[wholesome_folsom]

You're probably having misfires or other engine related issues. For example, miscellaneous misfires will disable ESS before there are enough misfires to trigger a check engine light and a trouble code. When it happened to me, I used jscan's live monitoring to see what was happening.

No misfire. Engine runs smooth as butter. As I said this is a brand new motor 200 miles on it.

 

[Proximo]

@wholesome_folsom do you have remote start, and does it work?

 

[wholesome_folsom]

@wholesome_folsom do you have remote start, and does it work?

I don’t have remote start. But when the light turns on cruise control does work at that matters, everything works as it should except for that light and a random chime.

 

[Proximo]

I don’t have remote start. But when the light turns on cruise control does work at that matters, everything works as it should except for that light and a random chime.

I replaced the green can bus behind the glove box, and that fixed all my ESS problems. You are at the beginning of my problems, shit got worse till finally got autopark while sitting in traffic. So, $40 part may or may not fix your problem.

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