Sponsored

experience with wireless air bag controllers?

kg4wsv

Member
First Name
Jason
Joined
Sep 6, 2022
Threads
1
Messages
15
Reaction score
11
Location
Alabama
Vehicle(s)
'26 Gladiator
Does anyone have experience with the "Rough Country 10105 Wireless Air Bag Controller Kit" or the Air Lift version?

I need (according to my BIL/mechanic) to install some air bags for towing my camper. I already have a compressor (Arb) mounted in the bed, so all I really need are the bags. But - it would be really nice to have a wireless controller.

I'm choking on the price - $450 to $600 for a couple of solenoid valves, pressure transducer, and some software seems a bit much. I could roll my own for probably $150 in parts (most of which are already lying around the shop) and some quality time on the computer banging out the software. If it was $250 it would already be on the way - I'd gladly give $100 to have the cell phone app and not have to do any coding, but I'm struggling to fork over the extra $300 to $500 for some really simple software and a nice package.
Sponsored

 

WILDHOBO

Well-Known Member
First Name
Dan
Joined
Sep 24, 2021
Threads
73
Messages
11,666
Reaction score
17,745
Location
Colorado
Vehicle(s)
2021 Gladiator Rubicon
Occupation
Network Engineer
Vehicle Showcase
1
You could just swap out the springs for HD springs that will handle the weight, for a fraction of the price and complexity.
 

jav_eee

Well-Known Member
Joined
Mar 10, 2023
Threads
35
Messages
1,084
Reaction score
1,075
Location
Texas
Vehicle(s)
2021 Gladiator Rubicon
I used the Airlift Wireless One system in 2 different trucks, an F150 and later an F250. Works awesome. Punch up or down to the pressure you want and the controller and compressor handles the rest. Loved having airbags and the wireless system on my vehicles.
 

ShadowsPapa

Well-Known Member
First Name
Bill
Joined
Oct 12, 2019
Threads
247
Messages
40,442
Reaction score
53,860
Location
Runnells, Iowa
Vehicle(s)
'25 JTMX, '23 JLU 4xe, '82 SX4, '73 Javelin
Occupation
Retired auto mechanic, frmr gov't ntwrk security admin
Vehicle Showcase
3
You could just swap out the springs for HD springs that will handle the weight, for a fraction of the price and complexity.
But the higher rate springs make no sense for non-constant loads like camper towing.
Fine for racks and permanent weights.
One reason I didn't go with higher rate springs to handle the weight of towing or a bed full of heavy stuff is that the ride then sucks when it's not loaded.
Mine is back to normal spring rate when not hauling, or I can adjust the height of the rear of the truck when towing to keep the back of the truck close to stock height.
Can't do that with a spring swap - you live with those stiffer springs.

This is why I have max tow and Rubicon springs laying around. Never again.
 

PuddleJumper

Well-Known Member
First Name
Cortlund
Joined
Jan 17, 2024
Threads
68
Messages
2,540
Reaction score
3,373
Location
Alexandria, Virginia
Vehicle(s)
23' JTM, 22' JTR, 22' F56S,
Build Thread
Link
Occupation
STACK Infrastructure Critical Operations Technician
Vehicle Showcase
1
Does anyone have experience with the "Rough Country 10105 Wireless Air Bag Controller Kit" or the Air Lift version?

I need (according to my BIL/mechanic) to install some air bags for towing my camper. I already have a compressor (Arb) mounted in the bed, so all I really need are the bags. But - it would be really nice to have a wireless controller.

I'm choking on the price - $450 to $600 for a couple of solenoid valves, pressure transducer, and some software seems a bit much. I could roll my own for probably $150 in parts (most of which are already lying around the shop) and some quality time on the computer banging out the software. If it was $250 it would already be on the way - I'd gladly give $100 to have the cell phone app and not have to do any coding, but I'm struggling to fork over the extra $300 to $500 for some really simple software and a nice package.
You could probably just mount a switch in cab that to run those solenoids for inflate and deflate. toggle up for inflate, toggle down for deflate. And If you have the ARB that self regulates of its own mini tank you wouldn't have to do much there either. personally i'd just activate it from the bed cus i want to watch a level on hitch to know i'm where i'm supposed to be anyway.
 

Sponsored

WILDHOBO

Well-Known Member
First Name
Dan
Joined
Sep 24, 2021
Threads
73
Messages
11,666
Reaction score
17,745
Location
Colorado
Vehicle(s)
2021 Gladiator Rubicon
Occupation
Network Engineer
Vehicle Showcase
1
But the higher rate springs make no sense for non-constant loads like camper towing.
Fine for racks and permanent weights.
One reason I didn't go with higher rate springs to handle the weight of towing or a bed full of heavy stuff is that the ride then sucks when it's not loaded.
Mine is back to normal spring rate when not hauling, or I can adjust the height of the rear of the truck when towing to keep the back of the truck close to stock height.
Can't do that with a spring swap - you live with those stiffer springs.

This is why I have max tow and Rubicon springs laying around. Never again.
Be more creative with the spring choice. I have ram 1500 springs in the rear. Nice and soft when it’s empty, but they handle more weight without sagging.
 
OP
OP

kg4wsv

Member
First Name
Jason
Joined
Sep 6, 2022
Threads
1
Messages
15
Reaction score
11
Location
Alabama
Vehicle(s)
'26 Gladiator
You could probably just mount a switch in cab that to run those solenoids for inflate and deflate. toggle up for inflate, toggle down for deflate. And If you have the ARB that self regulates of its own mini tank you wouldn't have to do much there either. personally i'd just activate it from the bed cus i want to watch a level on hitch to know i'm where i'm supposed to be anyway.
My brother-in-law does a lot of towing (big Rams pulling goosenecks with cattle, tractors, etc) and has basically one setting for tow and one for no-tow.

I've thought about just using a couple of the aux switches straight to the solenoids, one for inflate and one for deflate, but that would leave me with no pressure reading up front so it doesn't make that much sense. If I make a simple controller and get tow/no-tow pressures dialed in I could also just use a single aux switch on for tow, off for no-tow.
 
 







Top