FAD override

[ShadowsPapa]

I thought the stock axles on the rubicon are chromoly - or maybe that's just the rears?

You don't have SelecTrac, do you? I know - they call it "RockTrac" in the Rubicon, but if you have the full time 4H automatic transfer case - watch out. You don't want to do this.

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[Volt0]

I thought the stock axles on the rubicon are chromoly - or maybe that's just the rears?

There are a few threads in this forum where folks talked about upgrading to chromoly, so I don’t think that’s a factory option ( I could be wrong ).

 

[Volt0]

You don't have SelecTrac, do you? I know - they call it "RockTrac" in the Rubicon, but if you have the full time 4H automatic transfer case - watch out. You don't want to do this.

I’m eager to learn. What’s the mid-level explanation?

 

[chorky]

You don't have SelecTrac, do you? I know - they call it "RockTrac" in the Rubicon, but if you have the full time 4H automatic transfer case - watch out. You don't want to do this.

No I just have the standard t-case. No clutch pack in mine. Good point though! I didn't think of that, mostly since it doesn't apply here.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

I’m eager to learn. What’s the mid-level explanation?

I should modify the wording to "be very careful about making mods with that t-case.......

It's got clutches inside. It's not a solid link in any mode. When in 4H or 4L part time, the clutch pack is locked, but in 4H automatic, the clutches apply and relax as the systems deems necessary. Sometimes it's a partial application of the clutches, could result in slippage and making things hot.

With the standard transfer case the front and rear driveshafts are mechanically locked together so it's always a 50-50 split. Disconnect that front axle and the front simply spins the side gears and pinions in the carrier.

 

[JTGuy]

If you go with locking hubs you will need new wheels of 5 x 5 1/2 lug pattern. I would just go with Dynatrac Pro Rock 44 with hubs as there is no kit for our diffs. I feared the Tazer but have one now with no issues. I only use it for tires and gears and TPMS. Might add the locker and sway bar mod some time. I just leave it plugged in and have a cover over the OBD port. Dealer doesn't care as he sees a lot of them.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

I only use it for tires and gears and TPMS.

A lot cheaper options for that, and they don't involve any hardware left in place.

I just leave it plugged in and have a cover over the OBD port. Dealer doesn't care as he sees a lot of them.

Even ZAutomotive will suggest unmarry, remove, before dealer visits. There are times it can interfere with things. One forum member actually mentioned that he had to remove his because of interfering with something the dealer was doing.

What does the dealer think of the cover over the OBD port? Do you unlock or remove that before dealer visits?
Dealers connect to the OBD port every visit.

 

[JTGuy]

The only thing a dealer does is oil change and my dealer knows me and is OK with tazer and other mods. For any real warranty work I would remove it. I really just don't want to be messing with the thing.

 

[WILDHOBO]

I mean more like accidentally pulling it out of the jeep without disconnecting it….which i think will brick the pcm

does it allow you to have a 2LO option? So be in 4Lo but with the FAD disconnected?

You can absolutely remove a tazer without unmarrying it. Mine is married, but in the glove box. I use it for permanent vehicle settings only, which stay the way they are with the tazer removed. The cables are connected to the Jeep as they would be normally.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

You can absolutely remove a tazer without unmarrying it. Mine is married, but in the glove box. I use it for permanent vehicle settings only, which stay the way they are with the tazer removed. The cables are connected to the Jeep as they would be normally.

You aren't going to "brick the PCM" by doing such a thing, either. Not going to happen.
Entries made but not saved will simply revert, entries made and saved will stay there.
These aren't "flashing" anything. They are modifying settings you are allowed to modify anyway and for live-only things (backup camera on during turn signal operation) - it simply won't happen.

 

[WILDHOBO]

You aren't going to "brick the PCM" by doing such a thing, either. Not going to happen.
Entries made but not saved will simply revert, entries made and saved will stay there.
These aren't "flashing" anything. They are modifying settings you are allowed to modify anyway and for live-only things (backup camera on during turn signal operation) - it simply won't happen.

Thanks for stepping in. I wasn’t in the mood. Spot on.

 

[Volt0]

I do worry about the FAD strength over time but so far it doesn't seem to really be a weak point.

Here’s another one, although I’m sure the owner was having a bit of fun right before breaking the axle tube right at the FAD.

 

[WILDHOBO]

Here’s another one, although I’m sure the owner was having a bit of fun right before breaking the axle tube right at the FAD.

I haven’t watched it yet, but 392 might say it all.

 

[chorky]

So this here is the 2LO kit I have in my TJ. It is the best mod I have ever done to my TJ.

It appears more complex than I want to find a way to override the FAD. So I am curious if anyone has come across a similar mechanical method to get low range from the T-case without engaging the gears to engage the front.

https://www.quadratec.com/products/52254_200_07.htm

 

[Zachanadandy]

So this here is the 2LO kit I have in my TJ. It is the best mod I have ever done to my TJ.

It appears more complex than I want to find a way to override the FAD. So I am curious if anyone has come across a similar mechanical method to get low range from the T-case without engaging the gears to engage the front.

https://www.quadratec.com/products/52254_200_07.htm

To avoid codes/cel issues in pretty store you'd need a tazer pr scan to delete the fad and then just add a switch to use the fad manually.

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