Front end knocking noise (video)

[Arisdocjk]

It sure sounds like it is either the drag link end or tie rod end from the video. Maybe try replacing the end joints. I run steer smarts on my Mojave and jl and there is zero movement. Did you also re-torque the trackbar?

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[Wet Willys]

It sure sounds like it is either the drag link end or tie rod end from the video. Maybe try replacing the end joints. I run steer smarts on my Mojave and jl and there is zero movement. Did you also re-torque the trackbar?

Yeah, re-torqued the track bar. I'm kind of thinking the end joints too but it's bizarre since there doesn't seem to be any play in them, and they're relatively new.

 

[CrazyCooter]

Jack it up or put it on a lift and hit the tires with a big hammer.......The vibration will usually point out the offending part. You wouldn't believe the things I find that 10 other shops missed with this method.

 

[Arisdocjk]

Yep, I’m stumped, but that noise would drive me nuts. Hope you figure it out.

 

[Wet Willys]

Jack it up or put it on a lift and hit the tires with a big hammer.......The vibration will usually point out the offending part. You wouldn't believe the things I find that 10 other shops missed with this method.

Never tried this, good idea.

 

[CrazyCooter]

Never tried this, good idea.

You might try it both ways...axle on jack stands and also with axle hanging.

 

[jensjer]

With that much aftermarket shit on it and people wonder what's rattling always baffling.. it Sounds exactly like a heavily modded jeep should sound..

also So it looks & sounds like the bump stop is flapping around. .and/or additionally spring retainers.. if not that. It's something else

 

[CrazyCooter]

With that much aftermarket shit on it and people wonder what's rattling always baffling.. it Sounds exactly like a heavily modded jeep should sound..

also So it looks & sounds like the bump stop is flapping around. .and/or additionally spring retainers.. if not that. It's something else

Uh, no.......

Modified vehicles when built properly and everything tight do not sound like this.

Accepting anything less is just conceding.

 

[Wet Willys]

I'm pretty convinced the noise is coming from the drag link. See video.



I know I didn't get this much racket from the drag link when I first put the RPM steering kit on. Anyone else that has the RPM stuff experiencing this?

 

[CrazyCooter]

That certainly sounds like the noise. I'd wrap a bungie cord around it and the tie rod tight and go out for a roadtest to confirm now.

 

[JeepOfTheseus]

Uh, no.......

Modified vehicles when built properly and everything tight do not sound like this.

Accepting anything less is just conceding.

Case in point: I think I’m getting creaking from the new front UCAs, but haven’t confirmed. Definitely want to figure out how to resolve…

 

[ShadowsPapa]

Yep. Lowers torqued to 190 ft-lbs. Uppers to 85 ft-lbs.

That's loose. That's MOPAR lift kit specs and it's loose.
The upper has a front and rear bolt spec and they vary.
I believe the front is 41 plus 185 degrees and the rear upper control arm bolt is 111 plus 95 degrees so before you even added the number of degrees of additional turns, your upper rear bolt is already loose if you only did 85.

This is for the REAR control arms - REAR axle - no way the fronts will be only 85 -

Front lower control arms - I used these factory specs and ended up over 200 pound/ft of final torque - 103 plus 145 degrees after you hit 103. It's a lot of torque.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

Case in point: I think I’m getting creaking from the new front UCAs, but haven’t confirmed. Definitely want to figure out how to resolve…

Torque them to proper factory torque after it's sitting on the ground. Loosen the bolts, jounce it, then torque it properly. Some of the specs floating around out there are just too loose and aren't factory specs that the techs use when repairing or rebuilding these things.
I'm surprised the MOPAR lift kit instructions are so very loose on their torque specs - maybe those are old specs from old lift kits, but it's way loose.
Rear lower control arm bolts, for example, when using the factory torque plus degrees is over 200, not 190. And 85 for lowers? Not sure where that number comes from - just the torque before applying the final number of degrees turn on the fastener is 111 so 85 is crazy loose.

That doesn't apply here to the OP's noises looking at Crazy Cooter's posts, but still - there's a lot of JTs out there with under-torqued parts.

 

[JeepOfTheseus]

Torque them to proper factory torque after it's sitting on the ground. Loosen the bolts, jounce it, then torque it properly. Some of the specs floating around out there are just too loose and aren't factory specs that the techs use when repairing or rebuilding these things.
I'm surprised the MOPAR lift kit instructions are so very loose on their torque specs - maybe those are old specs from old lift kits, but it's way loose.
Rear lower control arm bolts, for example, when using the factory torque plus degrees is over 200, not 190. And 85 for lowers? Not sure where that number comes from - just the torque before applying the final number of degrees turn on the fastener is 111 so 85 is crazy loose.

That doesn't apply here to the OP's noises looking at Crazy Cooter's posts, but still - there's a lot of JTs out there with under-torqued parts.

Interesting - I was using the factory spec of 80 ft lbs for the front uppers. Haven’t changed any other control arm yet (at least not to the Core 4x4 stuff, I changed using Mopar stuff as part of original lift last year).

 

[JeepOfTheseus]

@ShadowsPapa Do you know what the correct spec is for the front uppers? I loosened and rocked the truck a bit (on level ground) and about to re-torque. Not sure if I should stick with 80 or go a bit higher. Also probably doesn't help that the axle mounts are a hair larger than factory and so they end up bending/crushing a little with torque.

edit: missed your other post - not sure where you got those pics, but yea...that's a lot more :/

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