Front shock replacement only

[brancky3]

Will I need to loosen / disconnect the drag link if I'm only replacing the front shocks? I was planning to jack up at axle, put jack stands on frame, disconnect sway bar and shock, then let axle down to allow shock to be replaced. This worked in the rear but the suspension is a little simpler back there.

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[Renegade]

Will I need to loosen / disconnect the drag link if I'm only replacing the front shocks? I was planning to jack up at axle, put jack stands on frame, disconnect sway bar and shock, then let axle down to allow shock to be replaced. This worked in the rear but the suspension is a little simpler back there.

You should not have to disconnect the drag link or sway bar links for shock replacement. Are the new shocks longer than the ones you are replacing? If not, there is no reason to drop the axle below the lowest extension point with the original shocks.

 

[brancky3]

You should not have to disconnect the drag link or sway bar links for shock replacement. Are the new shocks longer than the ones you are replacing? If not, there is no reason to drop the axle below the lowest extension point with the original shocks.

The new shocks are from a Rubicon, so they're not longer. The sway bar links were absolutely necessary to disconnect on the rear unless I had a way to compress the shock before bolting it back in. The shock is ~4 inches longer than the lowest point without disconnecting the sway bar.

 

[Walldo]

Bolt the top of the shock into place, then compress the shock and install the lower bolt. Tighten to spec. and done, no need to remove anything other than the shocks.

 

[brancky3]

Bolt the top of the shock into place, then compress the shock and install the lower bolt. Tighten to spec. and done, no need to remove anything other than the shocks.

It takes ~100+ lbs to compress these shocks. That's a super awkward angle to compress a shock with one hand and line up the bolt with the other. Maybe I can use a ratchet strap.

 

[Renegade]

It takes ~100+ lbs to compress these shocks. That's a super awkward angle to compress a shock with one hand and line up the bolt with the other. Maybe I can use a ratchet strap.

I’ve done this multiple times already with both Rubicon and aftermarket Fox 2.0 shocks. It’s a little difficult, but can be done. Disconnecting other components like otherwise mentioned is an option.

 

[Alabama Mud Machine]

The new shocks are from a Rubicon, so they're not longer. The sway bar links were absolutely necessary to disconnect on the rear unless I had a way to compress the shock before bolting it back in. The shock is ~4 inches longer than the lowest point without disconnecting the sway bar.

They might be a tad longer...The Rubicon does sit an 1" higher up front with the slightly taller front springs... And the other 1.5" is from the high-clearance fenders...

 

[brancky3]

They might be a tad longer...The Rubicon does sit an 1" higher up front with the slightly taller front springs... And the other 1.5" is from the high-clearance fenders...

The rears are the exact same, I can tell you that. The springs may be stiffer (designed to handle more weight, etc) so a Sport would sit higher with them.

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