Genesis Dual Battery - 3.6 non-etorque HELP

[chorky]

But that doesn't kill ESS - ESS still functions, just without the aux battery. And no jumper is needed. An ESS stop will still happen - and all power coming from the crank battery even for N1. (because pulling F42 prevents the PCR from opening)

As seen here, as long as the PCR and related wiring stays in place, the main battery feeds N1
Follow the green brick road.........

A jumper is only required if the PCR and related wiring is removed. Otherwise, the main battery feeds N1 through the PCR.

Removing F42 only prevents the PCR from opening for the initial startup test, and doesn't disable anything ESS related - ESS will still function although some say with limits as to the number of times it works per drive cycle.

Hmm. I thought the whole point of pulling fuse 42 as in all those other threads was to prevent ESS, but maybe it was just to remove the aux without throwing a code

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[ShadowsPapa]

but maybe it was just to remove the aux without throwing a code

Yep. That's it.

I am still looking for a video I saw on how to make a circuit with a timer than "pressed the button" after something like 5 seconds of starting the engine for those who are cheap, or like DIY projects, or whatever.
I believe the cost was around $25 but could be remembering that very incorrectly.

Anyway, the point of pulling that fuse is indeed to prevent the codes/errors or any annoying beeping.

 

[MidbestKid]

Thanks to the tazer mini, ESS is disabled since it recalls the last state of the ESS button (I keep mine disabled). And because (assuming charging works normally) the new auxiliary battery is being charged, I don't have to worry about the tiny battery anymore (I can't recall how the factory setup works. I think the CEO of genesis posted in a thread outlining how the tiny battery keeps radio, fan, etc. running whilst the engine is off, but the main battery actually re-starts the engine after letting off the brake pedal).

Although, I've tried to make the ESS redundant. I don't like it and the tazer keeps it off, allowing me to utilize the genesis for more accessory and cold starting purposes. Granted, you could argue that the factory setup would have allowed for that, too, just from a single battery, even though the charging system should keep the tiny battery topped up.

Either way, onwards to a more sound and hopefully robust system, especially since I won't have to worry about ESS. Nice to not have an extra thing like ESS to worry about when powering lights, winch, future fridge, etc.

And yes, this morning I noticed the 'run' ignition state voltage was at 12.X volts just before starting, and very high 14.X volts whilst driving. So that puts me at about 12+ hours before re-starting the truck, so I'm confident in saying nothing is draining the batteries. I was careful to plug both the engine on cable from genesis (used passenger heated seat fuse) and the switch-pros (used cigarette lighter) into ignition on fuses to mitigate any future drainage I might have. I don't see myself in a situation where I'll need to use anything linked to those systems (except for the fridge which will be wired separately) while the truck is off anyways.


Truck is currently being upfitted with some off-road goodies (metal cloak lift, topper, tent, bumper, etc.), so I'll be sure to see what state the batteries are in when I pick it up. I also asked the shop to double-check my work. I made sure nothing looked out of the ordinary when I installed everything. I actually unwrapped some of the wiring loom (just the black, tape-like stuff. no naked wires) so I could get things to bend a little easier. No major kinks. Everything tightened nicely. I feel confident in my work.

Oh and if anyone missed it, the reason I had to order new batteries is because the ones I originally ordered with the kit had been sitting around for awhile (one ended up on the floor) and this cold finally pushed their charge state too low I'm afraid.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

I think the CEO of genesis posted in a thread outlining how the tiny battery keeps radio, fan, etc. running whilst the engine is off, but the main battery actually re-starts the engine after letting off the brake pedal).

Yeah, but there's still a load on the main/crank battery during that time. I've monitored both batteries during an ESS stop and the main battery drops almost as fast as the aux. The fan (cooling fan) and EHPS operate directly from the main, as a few other things.

 

[MidbestKid]

Just a little update...

Took a trip with some buddies to Arkansas this weekend and didn't have a single hiccup even after tons of dust, mud and water (engine bay looks like it has about 100,000 miles in it). I used my ARB compressor suitcase to blow off the system and alternator.

At the start of the trip I was at mid 14 volts - high 13 volts, but then I noticed about halfway through that I was at a constant 12.8. Granted, our morning temps were in the 30s with a warm up to 60s. I remember the post earlier that 12.8 was a somewhat normal charge depending on manufacturer.

I could hear the topper clicking on and off every so often, so I figured the truck was operating normally. This was without any major accessories such as lights or winch. Just a heated seat, some air conditioning, and device charging through the car throughout the day.

I'm assuming the car is only reading one battery at a time, and I'm assuming the car is charging after some cold nights and being ran all day (trip was about 800 miles). I'll continue to keep an eye on it but it feels like I'm missing something given the low voltage reading through the dash.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

if the batteries are fully charged, then 12.8 - 13.0 is perfectly normal.
Mine was running 13.0 unless I went down a hill or used the brakes then it went up to 14.6, then when I accelerated again it went back down - perfectly normal for a fully charged battery.

 

[Walter-new jeeper]

Seeing as this is one of the more recent threads regarding the Genesis Dual Battery Gen 3 system, thought I would post my questions here.

First - have a 2020 Gladiator Unlimited Rubicon. Have already gone through 2 aux batteries as they both drained and died during snow storms and the vehicle sat for over a week without being driven. First time it was actually two weeks undriven and the gladiator would not start at all, not even after charging and jumping. Second time only the aux battery went bad after a snow storm, crank battery no problem. Note that the service department said the first one shorted out because there was debris in the battery compartment which prevented water from draining. Why is there water in the aux battery compartment? Because the water from in front of the windshield apparently drains through the aux battery compartment. First one went out in 2021, second one 2022. I never bothered replacing the second time since I had already decided I would be upgrading to a dual battery system.

Time passes to this last weekend when I start installing the Genesis Dual Battery system. When I pulled the aux battery compartment cover off I discovered why the battery likely shorted and drained. The compartment did have water sitting on the bottom of the tray, but it was the condition of the positive wire bundle - with bare wire. One cable is shorter than the other which is not shown in the picture so it kind of kinks.

Proceeding on - I got the OEM battery tray out and put the Genesis tray in. Noticed 2 things - it blocks the oil dipstick and there is a gap between the side and the bracket you bolt it on to.

Contacted Genesis - they pointed me to an old intall video on the dipstick - just shove it towards the engine block to get out of the way. Yah, I had already tried that - it does not move that much and does not stay out of the way, bounces right back. For the gap they suggested putting something to fill the gab between the two - like washers.

Wondering if anyone else that installed the tray had similar issues and how they resolved it - especially the dipstick.

As of now the install is not complete, the tray is sitting there not fastened in.

 

[MidbestKid]

Seeing as this is one of the more recent threads regarding the Genesis Dual Battery Gen 3 system, thought I would post my questions here.

First - have a 2020 Gladiator Unlimited Rubicon. Have already gone through 2 aux batteries as they both drained and died during snow storms and the vehicle sat for over a week without being driven. First time it was actually two weeks undriven and the gladiator would not start at all, not even after charging and jumping. Second time only the aux battery went bad after a snow storm, crank battery no problem. Note that the service department said the first one shorted out because there was debris in the battery compartment which prevented water from draining. Why is there water in the aux battery compartment? Because the water from in front of the windshield apparently drains through the aux battery compartment. First one went out in 2021, second one 2022. I never bothered replacing the second time since I had already decided I would be upgrading to a dual battery system.

Time passes to this last weekend when I start installing the Genesis Dual Battery system. When I pulled the aux battery compartment cover off I discovered why the battery likely shorted and drained. The compartment did have water sitting on the bottom of the tray, but it was the condition of the positive wire bundle - with bare wire. One cable is shorter than the other which is not shown in the picture so it kind of kinks.

Proceeding on - I got the OEM battery tray out and put the Genesis tray in. Noticed 2 things - it blocks the oil dipstick and there is a gap between the side and the bracket you bolt it on to.

Contacted Genesis - they pointed me to an old intall video on the dipstick - just shove it towards the engine block to get out of the way. Yah, I had already tried that - it does not move that much and does not stay out of the way, bounces right back. For the gap they suggested putting something to fill the gab between the two - like washers.

Wondering if anyone else that installed the tray had similar issues and how they resolved it - especially the dipstick.

As of now the install is not complete, the tray is sitting there not fastened in.

I noticed the drain 'feature' when I pulled the oem tiny battery, too. Luckily I haven't had any issues with it since doing the genesis kit. I definitely kept an eye on all the wiring looms though. That was probably my main concern when installing this kit, especially since some of those ends have to stretch and curve to be connected. But after hitting some deep puddles lately, the system functions as it should.

As for the dipstick, my tray lip actually kind of sits on top of the dipstick. Not enough to push it down, but I thought it was convenient as it kind of keeps it seated (not that there would ever be a situation when something would push it out). About every thread I've seen regarding this install has run into a similar situation. Worst case, just pull the dipstick tube over a bit when you're removing the stick.

And for the gap, I pushed on the bracket to get it to fit flush. I didn't have that much space between those nuts and the holes, but pushing it flush with the red bracket in your case allowed me to work the bolts home without having battery fitment issues. I also probably have about .5" of wiggle room between the batteries. The topper helps secure them down and prevent sliding, as does the electrical wiring. I wouldn't bank on wires to secure anything ever, especially a battery, but that's just how my install went.

Might have to go to the hardware store and get some longer bolts and if you have any spare metal around the house, you could probably cut up something to fill that gap. As long as it's secure, that's really all that matters.

Edit: chorky knows his stuff. Might watch out for airbox fitment. I also forgot how long those bolts actually are. But yes, the large gap is suspect.

 

[chorky]

Dipstick thing is normal. I had to bend mine - cautiously. Bent it so it at least is not 'on' the genesis tray, with about 1/8" gap.

As for the gap in the bracket - thats not normal. I had like 1/16th inch gap which is fine but yours looks to be pretty substantial. Are you sure the other side of the tray is pushed flush up to the firewall? The problem with that large of gap is I would be concerned about a mistake at the manufacturer - and if that gap is really that bad, it might be pretty darn hard to get the air filter box back in. I definitely did not have that large of a gap.

And as for your wire issue. Mmmm. I would be taking those pictures to the dealer and replacing that wire - That should be going from I think N1 just to the aux battery. So you could remove it entirely as well - assuming you are showing the aux + wire that is.

 

[Walter-new jeeper]

Dipstick thing is normal. I had to bend mine - cautiously. Bent it so it at least is not 'on' the genesis tray, with about 1/8" gap.

As for the gap in the bracket - thats not normal. I had like 1/16th inch gap which is fine but yours looks to be pretty substantial. Are you sure the other side of the tray is pushed flush up to the firewall? The problem with that large of gap is I would be concerned about a mistake at the manufacturer - and if that gap is really that bad, it might be pretty darn hard to get the air filter box back in. I definitely did not have that large of a gap.

And as for your wire issue. Mmmm. I would be taking those pictures to the dealer and replacing that wire - That should be going from I think N1 just to the aux battery. So you could remove it entirely as well - assuming you are showing the aux + wire that is.

It is the aux positive wires. There are two wrapped up, one may go to the N1 as you mention, but the other goes to the PCR(?) per a diagram above.

 

[chorky]

x positive wires. There are two wrapped up, one may go to the N1 as you mention, but the other goes to the PCR(?)

so with the genesis system, they would have you take that positive wire and flip it upside down and attach it to the main batt +. Doing this your ESS will function. But, since you are already there, you can, if you want, remove those wires entirely. Doing so will require a jumper to be made to go from the N1 to N3 terminal - and then you can pull fuse 42. But you dont want to just tape them up and leave them dangling.

 

[chorky]

It is the aux positive wires. There are two wrapped up, one may go to the N1 as you mention, but the other goes to the PCR(?) per a diagram above.

skip to 19:45


Also review 22:12 to note the two options of dealing with the negative cable depending on the year of your Gladiator

 

[Walter-new jeeper]

so with the genesis system, they would have you take that positive wire and flip it upside down and attach it to the main batt +. Doing this your ESS will function. But, since you are already there, you can, if you want, remove those wires entirely. Doing so will require a jumper to be made to go from the N1 to N3 terminal - and then you can pull fuse 42. But you dont want to just tape them up and leave them dangling.

I only taped up the bare wire. The terminal end is still available to be installed on the battery terminal.

 

[chorky]

I only taped up the bare wire. The terminal end is still available to be installed on the battery terminal.

I would try and get it replaced still. Even though you taped it, it will corrode.

 

[Walter-new jeeper]

The gap between the bracket and the tray cinched up well enough. Everything was solid once nuts and bolts applied.

Took some doing but finally got everything installed today. When you have no garage space so you are working outside, only have a short amount of time after work is complete, and dealing with rainy weather - not many days available to work on it so took a while.

Not a whole lot of slack available in the power cables, that's for sure. Guess when you pay by the inch for cable you keep the length to absolute minimum to fit.

Gladiator fired up - so far just fine. Key fob battery ran out so had lots of noise and lights when I opened my door. Until I finally got it to recognize the fob and start.

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