Help me out here: Rubi shocks on max tow sport s

[RH 67]

Concerned about skinny in the slush and ruts - tends to be pulled around in my experiences.
I don't mind the deep fresh snow but the tracks, it gets packed, then the slush - hit that and it can jerk your vehicle right off the side.
Was looking into more of the Falkens - as someone here said "with the mountain/snowflake" symbol.
Overland - 18" wheels.

But have never done a side-by-side as far as "tall and skinny" vs the others.

A 255/80/17 tire is the same as a 33" tire just slightly narrower. I have this size on my MB Sprinter 4x4 and they are great in the snow, rain and dry conditions, on the MB i have the Cooper SST PRO MT. Last year i was in the mountains outside of Reno plowing thru 2 ft. of snow with no issues at all, no problems on snowy dirt roads that turned to slush.

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[PyrPatriot]

I hope to test out the 255/75/17 Falken m/t tires in the snows of the Appalachian mountains this winter. They are not rated for snow but reviews indicate they do well as winter tires

 

[Backwoodsraider]

Hey All,

Appreciate the responses, but just like all the other threads i read, it went off on a tangent about towing.

That is not what i am asking. How will the ride be adding the shocks, compared to stock



I see the info on the springs vs the shocks wear out. but still, how will it ride?

 

[Oscar Indy]

Hey All,

Appreciate the responses, but just like all the other threads i read, it went off on a tangent about towing.

That is not what i am asking. How will the ride be adding the shocks, compared to stock



I see the info on the springs vs the shocks wear out. but still, how will it ride?

That is a subjective answer. What you are asking for is someone's opinion of what their ass feels. It'll ride like a stock vehicle because they are stock shocks. Your best bet is to test drive a Rubicon. Short of that the only answer you can get that isn't as subjective is "better". It'll ride better other wise it's not an upgrade.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

That is a subjective answer. What you are asking for is someone's opinion of what their ass feels. It'll ride like a stock vehicle because they are stock shocks. Your best bet is to test drive a Rubicon. Short of that the only answer you can get that isn't as subjective is "better". It'll ride better other wise it's not an upgrade.

Totally agree - but I ask the O/P - WHY? Why wonder - why put Rubicon shocks on?
Does your current JT ride so poorly you want a change?
The Rubicon is made for different market to an extent. It's not built to be a family comfort vehicle.

The ride of a vehicle is based on more than shocks.
The spring rate differs and it's a heavier vehicle - so if you drive a Rubicon - you'll get the shock feel, sure, that's right, but is the difference ONLY shocks - or the WEIGHT of the vehicle because it's heavier, or the springs under the Rubicon?
Ride is a personal thing - like color, or the comfort of your recliner at home.
All we can do is suggest it may ride more firm, or not, that sort of thing.
And fact is, since it's a shock replacement only, you may not notice a ton of difference.

 

[Backwoodsraider]

Totally agree - but I ask the O/P - WHY? Why wonder - why put Rubicon shocks on?
Does your current JT ride so poorly you want a change?
The Rubicon is made for different market to an extent. It's not built to be a family comfort vehicle.

The ride of a vehicle is based on more than shocks.
The spring rate differs and it's a heavier vehicle - so if you drive a Rubicon - you'll get the shock feel, sure, that's right, but is the difference ONLY shocks - or the WEIGHT of the vehicle because it's heavier, or the springs under the Rubicon?
Ride is a personal thing - like color, or the comfort of your recliner at home.
All we can do is suggest it may ride more firm, or not, that sort of thing.
And fact is, since it's a shock replacement only, you may not notice a ton of difference.

Right now it rides firm, does not glide if that makes sense. It's not the tires, air down to 30 on today's outing. Crack in the asphalt I'll feel it, felt it with stock tires and air down to 32.

Looking for a smoother ride, not so jarring.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

Right now it rides firm, does not glide if that makes sense. It's not the tires, air down to 30 on today's outing. Crack in the asphalt I'll feel it, felt it with stock tires and air down to 32.

Looking for a smoother ride, not so jarring.

Don't ruin tires looking for a smoother ride. Inflate to recommended pressures in the owners manual - unless someone else is going to pay for your tires. There's a ton of BS out there about tires. Go by the book unless you like blowouts and messed up short tire life.
By the way, you bought a truck. It's a Sport max tow. Won't ride like a Compass or Grand Cherokee.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

Don't ruin tires looking for a smoother ride. Inflate to recommended pressures in the owners manual - unless someone else is going to pay for your tires. There's a ton of BS out there about tires. Go by the book unless you like blowouts and messed up short tire life.
By the way, you bought a truck. It's a Sport max tow. Won't ride like a Compass or Grand Cherokee.

I should have included that there's a lot of GOOD info out there too, about tires - and how often they are OVER-inflated - either the dealer never did their prep properly, or other reasons. Over-inflation can be very bad too. Frankly, I'd go by the tire makers recommendations and further - keep in mind the number on the side is max pressure at load. You should not be running max pressure or even close unless you have the tire loaded up to the max (which is a bad idea anyway, running 100% of rating of anything on a vehicle is not always good.)
Anyway, check what the tire makers say, check the owner manual, another idea is to see if you can drive another Jeep exactly like yours (same model, same tires, same tow package) and see if it's the same.
Overland is the smoothest ride and it still lets me know it's a light truck.
I have no idea if you have ever owned a Jeep similar to this or not so have no idea about your comparisons or past experiences - so can't judge and won't.

 

[WXman]

I'd bet a dozen donuts that the Rubicon Fox shocks are valved firmer to handle offroad usage. The Sport, on the other hand, is the volume seller in the lineup and will be tuned for better comfort.

So, I would expect an increase in stiffness with Rubicon shocks on a lighter Sport.

 

[Oscar Indy]

Right now it rides firm, does not glide if that makes sense. It's not the tires, air down to 30 on today's outing. Crack in the asphalt I'll feel it, felt it with stock tires and air down to 32.

Looking for a smoother ride, not so jarring.

Absolutely do not listen to this self proclaimed expert.
You are running non stock rubber setup.
You need to do a chalk test to find the appropriate pressure for your Jeep.

Jeep overinflated the tires and built the placard pressure to get better mileage at the expenses of wearing out tires center faster.

Chalk test on my factory tires came in at 31 psi. Fun fact it tracked straight and had zero looseness after setting it correctly. Id rather pay for the extra fuel than new tires sooner.
Look up C.A.F.E. to see how Jeep is incentivized to get better mileage.

 

[Oscar Indy]

I'd bet a dozen donuts that the Rubicon Fox shocks are valved firmer to handle offroad usage. The Sport, on the other hand, is the volume seller in the lineup and will be tuned for better comfort.

So, I would expect an increase in stiffness with Rubicon shocks on a lighter Sport.

That has been historically accurate but I haven't seen valving numbers on glad shocks. All the wranglers have been that way but the red shocks on them are not fox branded.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

Right now it rides firm, does not glide if that makes sense. It's not the tires, air down to 30 on today's outing. Crack in the asphalt I'll feel it, felt it with stock tires and air down to 32.

Looking for a smoother ride, not so jarring.

Question for the OP -
Is this your first straight axle 4x4?
IF IT IS, then there may be other factors at play.
These straight axle vehicles have a much heavier suspension as far as unsprung weight. And tires and wheels come into that as well. Heavier tires, heavier wheels, more unsprung weight.
Unsprung weight it anything NOT supported or riding on the springs. That means axles, brakes, wheels, tires, etc.
Keeping unsprung weight to a minimum, especially when compared to the weight of the vehicle, means a better ride. It's physics.
When you hit a bump the heavy unsprung weight of the axles, wheels and tires resist being moved up - and when they are moved up by the "bump in the road", they have energy to them and that energy is imparted to the springs and up to the vehicle itself.
This example MAY help - it's a visual used when auto shop instructors try to convey what unsprung weight when compared to the vehicle weight can do -
You've seen the guy laying down on the stage, they put a big sheet of plywood with dozens and dozens of nails driven through it on his chest, nails pointed down. Then they put a concrete block on that board of nails, all resting on the guy.
Then someone comes up with a big mallet or hammer. It looks big and impressive and if they hit you with it - ouch.
They then smack the concrete block on the board of nails on the guy on stage. He doesn't feel a thing. The energy of the swinging hammer was absorbed by the heavy bricks. If the hammer had been heavy enough, it would have overcome the bricks, but the mass of the bricks stopped any real force from being transmitted to the nails below.
Now back to the Jeep - if the unsprung weight is heavy enough it has enough energy in it to push harder up against the springs and shocks and ultimately the cabin than a vehicle with less unsprung weight. So it takes a lot to get these to ride like a car or even less like a truck.
If you put on heavier wheels and tires - that alone can (won't always or necessarily) give a bit harder ride.
Engineers try to keep unsprung weight to a minimum for ride comfort and handling.
Just something to keep in mind when trying to change how the ride feels. Spring rate - and shock valving, make a difference as the spring must absorb the energy of that heavy wheel and axle assembly. The shocks must control the spring oscillation and take some of the hit from the bump as well.

 

[lrtexasman]

Hey All,

Appreciate the responses, but just like all the other threads i read, it went off on a tangent about towing.

That is not what i am asking. How will the ride be adding the shocks, compared to stock



I see the info on the springs vs the shocks wear out. but still, how will it ride?

as others have said, I suggest driving a Rubicon. But to be honest unless you switch the shocks, springs, and coils over you won’t be able to really know. Each trim level has varying combinations. I did notice the lift and more pronounced bounce/sway on the Rubicons over the Sport S max tows ive driven. At the end of the day you can pick up a lightly used set of Rubicon shocks and coils for 300 pretty easily. Put them and get and alignment and see how you like it. If you don’t, take them off and sell them to get your money back.

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