How are you mounting remote ham/gmrs faceplates?

[Nigelcorn]

Hi, like the title says, I'm curious how others are mounting the remote faceplate for either ham or gmrs radios. I've seen some mounted to overhead molle panels, and some mounted to dash kits, but I'm not sure how people are actually attaching the remote faceplate to these different options.

Does anyone have pictures that they would be able to share to show what mounting kit they use?

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[jav_eee]

I mounted mine on a ram ball CMM grab bar mount.

 

[O-Face]

Here is my setup. I went with all Ram Mounts so I knew everything would match up and be solid. The ball mount on the back of the faceplate (here) is simply riveted so I didn't have to fuss with any bolts or screws that could potentially work loose. The ball that is mounted to the overhead panel (here) has a 1/4-20 thread so I mounted it with a bolt & lock washer and is rock solid after a year of beating and banging around. So far, there has been zero rattle and nothing has even begun to work loose. The body of the GMRS is mounted under the drivers seat BTW. Ram Mounts also makes a Jeep Specific dash track if you want to mount the face lower and skip the overhead panel install. I looked at that project as a "buy once, cry once" and have not been disappointed with my choices.

 

[Deleted member 52902]

Jav vee,
I do have a suggestion regarding your antenna mount location.

Where you have it located now would seem to be most convenient. Wtih this particular antenna model, you might even be able to drive in and out of a garage without the tip of the antenna dragging on the opened door overhead.

The downside to this location is your transmitted signal will be a bit compromised. This will show on a UHF capable, Standing Wave Ratio (SWR) meter, inserted into the coax line at the radio-end. The adjacent proximity of the cowling and the window iller will cause signal reflection. This will have some effect on heating the output transistor with a backward feed of the signal toward the radio, rather than all of the signal radiating out of the antenna into free air. This gets noticably worse when the driver door is in place with its mirror assembly. You can watch the SWR rise and fall (but not fall enough) on the meter when the door is swung open and closed while the radio is in transmit mode.

The receiver may not seem to be affected but in reality, it is also, slightly compromised in signal reception. It does not affect the receiver electronics with on the air signals. Most received signals will still come in ok for the range typically worked on GMRS frequencies, and distances on the trail.

So, how bad is it for transmit (TX) operations hurting the radio because of reflected TX signal back into the radio, besides limiting some range of use? Not terribly awful. You will see lots of antennas placed here. Its a conveniant location. Easy to run the cable too. Not particularly prone to thwacking by bushes, branches or other. Is there a better location?

Unfortunately with a soft or fiberglass top on the JEEP, the best location for an antenna would be center mass of metal below the base of the antenna. Not possible on a JEEP unless the fiberglass hard top is in place, fitted with something around at least a 3 ft round or square plate, sandwiched between the antenna's base mount, above or below the fiberglass roof. I say do not do this, because any hole we drill into our fiberglass roof will very likely, leak. Regardless of how much silicon seal you glop around it. Bad bad, no win, no chicken dinner result. Maybe for awhile. Until micro cracks in the jiggling fiberglass work their magic to mess with your originally perfectly drilled hole. Don't go there.

Roof racks properly mounted, with a braided ground strap wire that ties into the body of the JEEP can work. But even then, the short, or multi-frequency antenna you are using just sticks up to high for comfort. Garage clearance, a branch that the UPS or FEDEX trucks hasn't take care of for us yet. Rear tire antenna mounting bracket between the spare tire wheel and the rear heated glass window? Mmm, it is bit better from the testing I have done but still a compromise. Too bad really.... I'm blitzing the cheaper and quick-easy install on the side of a cowl or hood as well as the rear spare tire carrier antenna mount locations. Whats left? Magnet mount or drill a hole-mount antenna dead center of the hood can be pretty good. Not exactly pleasing, right? Since we can't take advantage of center mass, the next best location would be about the center of the hood. Then our TX'd, outgoing signal will benefit with a higher degree of 360 degree, omnidirectional signal-balance. Sort of egg shaped with forward and rearward being a bit better than side to side.
Fairly close to perfection of your TX'd signal going same distance in all directions as you can get with a rectangular vehicle.

Best choice then moves the antenna above the hood, in front on a short mast to elevate the base of the antenna to be about hood level. This is still a bit annoying in your forward vision but in years past, I got used to this. For awhile, mine was more toward the passenger side of the front as a badly off center gun sight until my brain/eyes finally ignored it. Worked quite well even if the TX signal pattern indicated a higher percent of my signal was going rearward with all of the "ground plane" metal of the truck in that direction. Semi-directional antenna biasing that otherwise was just a lop sided omni directional pattern that worked well enough.

Bottom line: Setting up a decent mobile transceiver antenna comes with some compromise. Especially on Wranglers and Gladiators with soft, plastic-hard top or no roof at all. What do I do on my JEEP today?

Similar to what you have done. Convenience with a bit of TX signal compromise, and works good enough; I placed what appears to be the same model antenna that you have, in about the same location you have on my 2008 4 door JEEP JK Wrangler. I am still circling the wagon on when I pull the trigger on a 4xe (whenever it is released) Gladiator purchase. In the meantime my ever pleasant but admittedly heavy gas drinker, V10 powered 2001 RAM 2500 still doing the truck-work here and the Wrangler gets all the rest. I am a very patient vehicle purchaser and keep most for years.

Yes -its hard for me to hold back on getting a new Gladiator literally today, except a 4xe w/Select Trac equipped model is what I am after. Eye opening extra cost for an ICE engine paired with a (short range) PHEV motor setup. Which meets my pavement and these days, limited off-pavement needs.

I mounted mine on a ram ball CMM grab bar mount.

 

[cranbiz]

I have a Yaesu FTM200DR and a Diamond 770HBNMO on order for the JT. I'm going to mount the control head either on the front of the center console or on a custom bracket that mounts behind the Jesus handle on the dash. I close friend did just that on his JT. The antenna will be mounted to the front of the bed between the bed and cab. The Diamond is a NGP antenna that I have on my MH and my JK and my friend has on his JT and his TJ and they work fantastic.

When the radio arrives I'll post up pictures of the install.

 

[ttn333]

Got a cheapy china special. Just need for trail com. Run it wire under the windshield to then down the driverside. Pretty straight forward install. Antenna cable also runs down the driver side.

 

[jav_eee]

Jav vee,
I do have a suggestion regarding your antenna mount location.

Where you have it located now would seem to be most convenient. Wtih this particular antenna model, you might even be able to drive in and out of a garage without the tip of the antenna dragging on the opened door overhead.

The downside to this location is your transmitted signal will be a bit compromised. This will show on a UHF capable, Standing Wave Ratio (SWR) meter, inserted into the coax line at the radio-end. The adjacent proximity of the cowling and the window iller will cause signal reflection. This will have some effect on heating the output transistor with a backward feed of the signal toward the radio, rather than all of the signal radiating out of the antenna into free air. This gets noticably worse when the driver door is in place with its mirror assembly. You can watch the SWR rise and fall (but not fall enough) on the meter when the door is swung open and closed while the radio is in transmit mode.

The receiver may not seem to be affected but in reality, it is also, slightly compromised in signal reception. It does not affect the receiver electronics with on the air signals. Most received signals will still come in ok for the range typically worked on GMRS frequencies, and distances on the trail.

So, how bad is it for transmit (TX) operations hurting the radio because of reflected TX signal back into the radio, besides limiting some range of use? Not terribly awful. You will see lots of antennas placed here. Its a conveniant location. Easy to run the cable too. Not particularly prone to thwacking by bushes, branches or other. Is there a better location?

Unfortunately with a soft or fiberglass top on the JEEP, the best location for an antenna would be center mass of metal below the base of the antenna. Not possible on a JEEP unless the fiberglass hard top is in place, fitted with something around at least a 3 ft round or square plate, sandwiched between the antenna's base mount, above or below the fiberglass roof. I say do not do this, because any hole we drill into our fiberglass roof will very likely, leak. Regardless of how much silicon seal you glop around it. Bad bad, no win, no chicken dinner result. Maybe for awhile. Until micro cracks in the jiggling fiberglass work their magic to mess with your originally perfectly drilled hole. Don't go there.

Roof racks properly mounted, with a braided ground strap wire that ties into the body of the JEEP can work. But even then, the short, or multi-frequency antenna you are using just sticks up to high for comfort. Garage clearance, a branch that the UPS or FEDEX trucks hasn't take care of for us yet. Rear tire antenna mounting bracket between the spare tire wheel and the rear heated glass window? Mmm, it is bit better from the testing I have done but still a compromise. Too bad really.... I'm blitzing the cheaper and quick-easy install on the side of a cowl or hood as well as the rear spare tire carrier antenna mount locations. Whats left? Magnet mount or drill a hole-mount antenna dead center of the hood can be pretty good. Not exactly pleasing, right? Since we can't take advantage of center mass, the next best location would be about the center of the hood. Then our TX'd, outgoing signal will benefit with a higher degree of 360 degree, omnidirectional signal-balance. Sort of egg shaped with forward and rearward being a bit better than side to side.
Fairly close to perfection of your TX'd signal going same distance in all directions as you can get with a rectangular vehicle.

Best choice then moves the antenna above the hood, in front on a short mast to elevate the base of the antenna to be about hood level. This is still a bit annoying in your forward vision but in years past, I got used to this. For awhile, mine was more toward the passenger side of the front as a badly off center gun sight until my brain/eyes finally ignored it. Worked quite well even if the TX signal pattern indicated a higher percent of my signal was going rearward with all of the "ground plane" metal of the truck in that direction. Semi-directional antenna biasing that otherwise was just a lop sided omni directional pattern that worked well enough.

Bottom line: Setting up a decent mobile transceiver antenna comes with some compromise. Especially on Wranglers and Gladiators with soft, plastic-hard top or no roof at all. What do I do on my JEEP today?

Similar to what you have done. Convenience with a bit of TX signal compromise, and works good enough; I placed what appears to be the same model antenna that you have, in about the same location you have on my 2008 4 door JEEP JK Wrangler. I am still circling the wagon on when I pull the trigger on a 4xe (whenever it is released) Gladiator purchase. In the meantime my ever pleasant but admittedly heavy gas drinker, V10 powered 2001 RAM 2500 still doing the truck-work here and the Wrangler gets all the rest. I am a very patient vehicle purchaser and keep most for years.

Yes -its hard for me to hold back on getting a new Gladiator literally today, except a 4xe w/Select Trac equipped model is what I am after. Eye opening extra cost for an ICE engine paired with a (short range) PHEV motor setup. Which meets my pavement and these days, limited off-pavement needs.

I completely understand what you’re saying. I’ve been a licensed tech since 2007 and have always NMO’d my antennas to the roof. Old hand me down or brand new off the lot. I’m not afraid to put a hole or 2 in the roof.

that being said I know my current mount is a complete compromise. I’m not worried about height as I don’t have a garage, I only worry about getting it mounted. I’d prefer front of the bed just aft of the cab but that would make top removal a little more involved. Plus I don’t like how it looks. I did think about poking a hole in the fiberglass and decided not to in the end.

FWIW, I used an antenna analyzer and the SWR on 2m, while not perfect, is pretty acceptable. I think it was a 1.8. It’s lower on 70cm and GMRS freqs. I’d be happy so show photos of this when I get back home next week.

my only problem with this install is radiation pattern. I can still connect to all of the repeaters in my area.

 

[Radio Guy]

I use a RAM mount on the front face of the center console. I used to have a Yaesu FTM-400XDR and the old Icom 706MKIIG together on the same mount but this week the Yaesu has been replaced with a commercial Harris multiband radio with remote control head as shown.

I just acquired a remote hand held mic/control head for the Harris so I will revert back to the Yaesu FTM-400XDR and Icom 706MKIIG on the RAM mount and the Harris remote control mic will just be somewhere. That will give me 2m/440 analog and Fusion digital amateur on the Yaesu FTM-400XDR, HF/2m/440 all mode on the Icom 706 and 30-50MHz, 136-174MHz, 380-520MHz and 760 to 860MHz analog and P25 digital on the Harris for GMRS, amateur and scanning all sorts of other stuff. I'll end up using all four antenna mounts on my truck to feed all these radios.

On post #4 above regarding the antenna location, yes its not an ideal spot but its super easy to use an NMO trunk lip mount on top of the hood either side of the hinges. This puts the antenna on top of the hood, all antennas I've tried (probably a dozen) have matched up perfectly and the performance is really good.

Some things mentioned in post #4 you don't want to do is use an elevated mast under the antenna, you never want to elevate the base of the antenna above a flat sheet metal ground plane because it will radically raise the feed[point impedance and introduce lots of losses. You also don't want to mount an antenna to a roof rack unless that roof rack has a large flat area for a ground plane. A wire or braid to ground the roof rack has no bearing on what an antenna wants, those are DC grounds and the antenna wants a big flat conductive ground plane under it and it doesn't matter if that is actually grounded to the vehicle body or back to the battery. Again, RF grounds and DC grounds are two different things.

Here is todays setup.

Here is my previous setup which will look the same after the big Harris control head gets replaced with the control head hand mic and the Yaesu goes back in.

 

[sarguy1941]

I used a grab bar mic clip mount on my ham rig. Think it was this. Used a ball mount from CMM in the grab bar for others and a short ram arm with a custom bracket.

 

[Nigelcorn]

I appreciate all the responses and pictures. With these different mounts, how is it physically attaching to the back of the radio faceplate?

 

[Radio Guy]

I appreciate all the responses and pictures. With these different mounts, how is it physically attaching to the back of the radio faceplate?

Different radio mfrs have different methods of mounting their heads. Some have threaded holes in the head, some come with an adapter plate, some are actually drilled to match a RAM mount foot, etc.

 

[sarguy1941]

The FTM400 had a 10/32 screw hole in the back. I put a stainless star washer on both sides of the mount and put a screw in it. Simple and fast.

 

[Radio Guy]

As threatened, I changed out my Harris XG-100M control head for a handheld control head mic, then put my Yaesu FTM-400XDR back in. Now my truck has more radio capability than I know what to do with including using up all four of my antenna mounts.

The Yaesu 2m/70cm analog/Fusion digital and Icom HF/2m/70cm are now mounted to a slightly longer arm on a RAM mount. The Harris hand held control head terminates in an adapter box behind and below the drivers seat. I wish the other radios had handheld control heads, this thing is a real space saver!

If I could only have one radio in the truck it would be the Harris covering 2m/70cm amateur, GMRS and basically anything from 136 to 870MHz analog and P25 digital.

 

[cranbiz]

My FTM200 and Diamond Antenna

 

[sarguy1941]

As threatened, I changed out my Harris XG-100M control head for a handheld control head mic, then put my Yaesu FTM-400XDR back in.

And here I was waiting for you to sell me that FTM400 !

Anyway looks good. I'm in the same boat with the APX8000. If I dump all radios thats the one I'm gonna keep with the O3 head.

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