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MadMojave

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Thanks for the video!!! Put an air intake was in top of my mind, then I saw the famous video showing stock intake were performing better sense. Why do you think CAI companies are careful to show your data and horse power gains if they believe in they products?
 
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Thanks for the video!!! Put an air intake was in top of my mind, then I saw the famous video showing stock intake were performing better sense. Why do you think CAI companies are careful to show your data and horse power gains if they believe in they products?
Its a wide range of things. Some are junk and dont work. Some companies get exhausted by the internet calling every dyno a lie. Some companies dont make much gain because they dont understand ecu function. Some companies just dont do dynos at all.
 

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Ok. People asked for it, so here it is. Ill update this thread and first post with 5 parts on understanding ECU basics.

This is a PRIMER on understanding ecu functions and fuel trim; not the whole gospel. I am NOT writing ecu code anymore, so I am not the guy to ask about specific table/programming questions. This is so the general forum members can understand the basics of how this stuff works and how to be a more informed consumer. This will apply to vehicles using narrowband O2 sensors and running pump gas.

Understanding this can help our approach to modifications to get better power, drivability, and efficiency; and how i got 23.4mpg on 37’s.

As reference: AFR vs peak Torque. This is for people under the assumption that running leaner makes more power. If you know thats not true, you can skip.
Nicely done sir! I was wondering if you could touch a little on the wideband O2 difference. I did a mild tune on my bike after pipes and air and it worked out well, but I think I'm leaving a lot on the table not going wideband. Maybe that's a stretch for this forum, but why not ;)

Dank je
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Nicely done sir! I was wondering if you could touch a little on the wideband O2 difference. I did a mild tune on my bike after pipes and air and it worked out well, but I think I'm leaving a lot on the table not going wideband. Maybe that's a stretch for this forum, but why not ;)

Dank je
Keith
Full time live wideband is awesome when using reliable parts. You literally load the afr target you want and the ecu does the rest. It is extremely precise, makes tuning easy, and adjusts extremely well to all environmental changes.
 

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Full time live wideband is awesome when using reliable parts. You literally load the afr target you want and the ecu does the rest. It is extremely precise, makes tuning easy, and adjusts extremely well to all environmental changes.
The tuner I have can do it, and I have been thinking about pulling the trigger. Just wondering about any downside on pump gas. It was my DD before the SHTF.
 
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Nah. No downside to it other than the cost.
 

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Nice. Very informative. And correct based on my limited knowledge. Brings back the days of tuning my motorcycle with a PV3.
 

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Nah. No downside to it other than the cost.
Forgot to mention I also did the cam, so, there is a little more invested already.
 
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Great Job on the videos! Very informative

I'm in the middle of trading in my sport S for a Diesel but I've always like the mojave trim the best, but I'm always pissed about the poor performance that the 3.6 has. The fact that you were able to get the right combination of bolt ons to improve power feel and also 20+ MPG gives me hope to once more look at the Mojave before looking down my order choice.

Can we replicate similar results with what you mentioned? (Mopar Intake, Pulsar, Exhaust) or did your experience and knowledge play a bigger part?

thanks again for the time you invested in the videos!
 

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Great Job on the videos! Very informative

I'm in the middle of trading in my sport S for a Diesel but I've always like the mojave trim the best, but I'm always pissed about the poor performance that the 3.6 has. The fact that you were able to get the right combination of bolt ons to improve power feel and also 20+ MPG gives me hope to once more look at the Mojave before looking down my order choice.

Can we replicate similar results with what you mentioned? (Mopar Intake, Pulsar, Exhaust) or did your experience and knowledge play a bigger part?

thanks again for the time you invested in the videos!
The type of parts used shouldnt matter much. For the most part, most intakes are most intakes. If i had to guess which one flowed the best, Id guess it would be the Holley one. I chose mopar for filter options and snorkel compatibility.

The AWE exhaust is a 3” system, so it would probably dyno the best from a power standpoint, but any good 2.5-2.75” system would help efficiency.

Tuning can matter a great deal, and there are a couple good options out there that will work.

You can supercharge your 3.6 for the price difference on a diesel. Im not anti diesel, and had diesel been available when i went to buy, i probably would have got diesel. Or at least considered it depending on how reliable the diesel is, and i dont know. But longevity requires tuning there too.
 

wchevron

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Very informative videos. Total novice here so I apologize if my questions are stupid.

If I"m understanding the videos correctly, there are 3 parts of the system you need to upgrade to get the better MPG. Larger air intake, tuner, & new exhaust.

1. Do you need to do all all three to get the better MPG or is doing all 3 get you the most MPG you can get?

2. Is a tuner needed if keeping the stock Rubicon tires or did you need the tuner because you are running 37's?

3. If a tuner is needed, regardless of tire size, could you only replace the air intake and add a tuner and get a bump in MPG. I'm not sure how much the new exhaust comes into play in the equation.

4. With the new air intake, do you have to cut the Cold Air Intake vent in the hood or would new intake work without it.
 
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Very informative videos. Total novice here so I apologize if my questions are stupid.

If I"m understanding the videos correctly, there are 3 parts of the system you need to upgrade to get the better MPG. Larger air intake, tuner, & new exhaust.

1. Do you need to do all all three to get the better MPG or is doing all 3 get you the most MPG you can get?

2. Is a tuner needed if keeping the stock Rubicon tires or did you need the tuner because you are running 37's?

3. If a tuner is needed, regardless of tire size, could you only replace the air intake and add a tuner and get a bump in MPG. I'm not sure how much the new exhaust comes into play in the equation.

4. With the new air intake, do you have to cut the Cold Air Intake vent in the hood or would new intake work without it.
1- all help; tuning is the biggest change.

2- i used it stock tire and for new; it makes a big difference stock too

3- im just guessing here; but i think exhaust would make more of a difference on the stock tune; and its probably a toss up between the two after tuning. I dont have a ton of data to support this; im just considering the pumping loss effect vs what air the motor can actually ingest.

4- i did not cut my hood. “Cold air” isnt as appropriate a name as “high flow” imo. Its about air volume not temp.

Hope that helps
 

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Yes, thank you. May give it a try on my daughter's JLU before my Gladiator comes in. I know you said there have been some issues with the Superchips tuner. Would I be better off waiting until their new version comes out?
 

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Ok. People asked for it, so here it is. Ill update this thread and first post with 5 parts on understanding ECU basics.

This is a PRIMER on understanding ecu functions and fuel trim; not the whole gospel. I am NOT writing ecu code anymore, so I am not the guy to ask about specific table/programming questions. This is so the general forum members can understand the basics of how this stuff works and how to be a more informed consumer. This will apply to vehicles using narrowband O2 sensors and running pump gas.

Understanding this can help our approach to modifications to get better power, drivability, and efficiency; and how i got 23.4mpg on 37’s.

As reference: AFR vs peak Torque. This is for people under the assumption that running leaner makes more power. If you know thats not true, you can skip.



Part 1/5


Part 2/5


Part 3/5


Part 4/5


Part 5/5
Ok. People asked for it, so here it is. Ill update this thread and first post with 5 parts on understanding ECU basics.

This is a PRIMER on understanding ecu functions and fuel trim; not the whole gospel. I am NOT writing ecu code anymore, so I am not the guy to ask about specific table/programming questions. This is so the general forum members can understand the basics of how this stuff works and how to be a more informed consumer. This will apply to vehicles using narrowband O2 sensors and running pump gas.

Understanding this can help our approach to modifications to get better power, drivability, and efficiency; and how i got 23.4mpg on 37’s.

As reference: AFR vs peak Torque. This is for people under the assumption that running leaner makes more power. If you know thats not true, you can skip.



Part 1/5


Part 2/5


Part 3/5


Part 4/5


Part 5/5
Thank you for the videos, they were very helpful in understanding the basic ECU operation. As another stated here, once I started I binged on all 6 you posted. Refreshingly, it fed my nerdy side!

To clarify, to get to the MPG you’re seeing, you used the Mopar CAI, Superchips Pulsar, and swapped the air intake, anything else? I have a 2020 with 37’s as well and was considering 4:88 gears in an attempt to get out of 6th more often and a better driving experience overall. It seems my initial focus on gearing first should maybe redirected to more efficiency (power and torque) out of the engine.

Were you focused on MPG specifically? Is there any downside to those upgrades when off-roading, etc? My wife and I are on a 3 month trip in the motorhome towing the Gladiator, our recent stop included “playing” on the very dusty trails of Big Bend National Park. This included the pretty easy Jeep BOH Black Gap Trail. Lots of fun so we’re now searching for more play areas.

Again, many thanks for Primer and sharing your knowledge.

Regards,

Jim
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