Installing bed outlet with factory parts into Sport Gladiator

[Sunbeam63]

I’d like to request some help and creative thinking, as electrical work is hard for me to comprehend sometimes. I have a base sport, which means adding a factory inverter and bed outlet is not possible unless I spend way too much money and effort. But I would still like to have the option on my truck.

Is it possible to install an aftermarket inverter, and still have a factory look? To be more specific, use the 110v switch and factory bed outlet, but have aftermarket parts in between?

I’m open to solutions. Figuring out the switch and correct wiring and fuses would be where I need help. And if anyone has a recommendation for inverter, I’m all ears.

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[Sunbeam63]

Following up on this, in case there is any interest at all.

This project is costing more than what it’s worth, but I am determined to get this figured out. I bought a couple of the switches and started probing at one with a multimeter to determine what does what. Between that and the Mopar Connector Repair kit diagram, I got a good understanding of the circuit.

The switch appears to be a pressure sensitive switch, but with some circuit cuts, simple soldering and a little wiring, I was able to turn the switch into a momentary switch. Paired with this Momentary to Latching Switch Converter, used for making light sabers, I now have a functioning switch. The great thing about this switch converter is that it does have an LED indicator that I hook up to the LED on the switch, which turns on when you push the switch. A video below shows it in action. If anyone is interested, I can provide more info on what I did to the switch to make it work.

Mopar does not sell the connector to the switch as a repair kit yet, and a search online showed me you cannot get this connector from any other electronics site. However, Mopar uses the connector in other new Jeeps. Doing a search on the website for TBD 20JT-2 will show shared platforms, and I was able to buy a used 2015 Jeep Cherokee Overhead Console for cheap to get the connector I wanted.

I am now waiting for the rest of my parts to come in. I plan on hooking this switch up to a 150a continuous duty solenoid, which will be activated by my latching switch. I plan on installing that in the driver side footwell. I will have 2 gauge cable going to the battery and inverter, with a large fuse on the battery side. I am using the Slimline 1500w inverter (can be found cheaper on other sites, and I now realize this is a modified sine wave inverter. I’ll use it until I can find a better alternative) which fits nicely underneath the drivers seat. That was the best location I could find, and it looks like there is even a factory stud under the seat by the center console that I might be able to use as a ground the inverter. The foot heat is a little flexible and will fit over it.

I will run a 12/3 25 foot led lighted extension cord from US Wire and Cable from the inverter to the bed outlet. I’m planning on running cables through the plug used for the manual clutch lever.

There are still quite a few steps, but figuring out the switch was the hardest part, with the rest of the steps installing everything in. I wanted a factory look, but didn’t want to tie into any modules for fear of ruining factory warranty. I’m hoping this is the best way. I am also using the blank switch on the right of the bed outlet switch as a place to install my redarc brake controller knob. Once I get parts installed, I’ll provide more details.

 

[Sunbeam63]

Probably my final follow up, unless others are interested for more details. I always forget to take pictures during the project.

Doing research, I determined 2 gauge wire was the size needed to safely bring that power to the inverter, with a 200a fuse to the hot lead. I bought cloth tape to make the harness appear factory and wrapped the cords up (positive, negative, extension cord from inverter to outside). Along the firewall was a great place to mount the thick harness. I cut a 1 in hole into the clutch pedal plug, with a rubber grommet. Threading the harness through the grommet was difficult, but between dish soap and unwrapping electrical tape (like unraveling thread around a finger to remove a stuck ring), I was able to coax the grommet/plug to where I needed it to.

Inside the truck, the positive cable goes to a 300a continuous duty solenoid mounted in the kick panel area (please excuse my cable management). The factory switch I modified to be a momentary switch paired with a circuit card to make it latching controls a relay which turns on the continuous duty solenoid. This was to avoid too much amperage draw and burn up the latching circuit card. Both the relay and solenoid are only powered when the truck is on acc or on. The indicator LED for the switch does turn on, and the light for the switch text is tied into the the cigarette splitter harness bezel light I installed. It dims and turns on with the rest of the dash lights.

Finally, the cords are routed behind the kick panels until they get to the seat. I had just barely enough cable to make it to the inverter. The inverter is grounded to a ground under the seat. I have yet to hook everything up, but the solenoid does work, so it’s just a matter of hooking up the cables to the battery and to the bed outlet.

This was a challenging project, but it’s nice to have a factory looking set up. As mentioned before, this inverter seemed to fit the best, but I did not know it was modified sine wave until it arrived. Regardless, factory is modified as well, so getting 1500w as opposed to 400w is still a better outcome.

 

[22EcoDs]

This seems like a ton of work but I'm sure someone here will appreciate it when they go to copy you ?

 

[Sunbeam63]

This seems like a ton of work but I'm sure someone here will appreciate it when they go to copy you ?

Way too much work! But I was way too determined to finish the job!

 

[ShastaJT6]

I think this is pretty cool, and I appreciate you sharing the pictures and info.

I recently installed a 12v outlet and USB outlets in the OEM bed outlet location, and have been considering adding 110v as well, the info here is helpful!

 

[Erievon]

For someone who said they weren't very good at electrical...great job and write up!!

 

[KWin]

Also if you need an extra pat on the back, you are like 6x the wattage of the factory one so yours is actually useful.

 

[Beemer533]

Nice job! looks like a clean install.

 

[Sunbeam63]

For someone who said they weren't very good at electrical...great job and write up!!

I appreciate the input from all. This was a good excuse to learn more about electrical, which is obviously more and more prevalent in cars today.

In 2019 I finished the restoration on my Sunbeam Alpine and completely overhauled the wiring, which was my first endeavor to automotive electrical. I got to learn about the generator and voltage regulators, and came out with more of an understanding than I ever dreamed of.

Now these type of projects help me start to understand newer technology, such as circuit cards and modules. As I stated above, this took more time than it’s worth, and there are much easier solutions , but where is the fun in that?

 

[B1tPirate]

If you get a pure sine inverter you will need a 0/0 primary to get from the battery to the inverter for a 1200 w, 2 0/0 if you go any larger than 1200. I put a 2400 pure sine in my previous truck and took a lot of trial and error to find the amount of copper needed to not get an error.

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