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Is this how my ball joints are supposed to look?

Darel

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'21 JTR bone stock.

Trying to track down an annoying graunching noise when I go over tiny bumps (like expansion joints) but not over larger bumps.

Under the truck and going over bushings etc. and the upper ball joints just don't look quite right to me. Almost like they're not seated. Both are identical. Lowers look "normal". On the uppers it almost looks like the joint isn't pressed into the knuckle fully - should that "flange" be seated down on the knuckle? And then where the stud of the ball joint passes through the top part of the knuckle, there seems to be a.small gap that looks like the BJ could be drawn in further. Forgive me, I'm used to older stuff. Maybe this is how "new" ball joints look?
16429530785707636202063959885616.jpg

16429531308681087704420378505564.jpg


Hopefully those pictures work. Thanks!
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j.o.y.ride

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Does it lift up and down within the socket?

You can pull that cotter pin out and try torqueing it. I think it's 70lbs but you can find the specs online.
 

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to test loose ball joints, jack the wheel to test up about a 1" off the ground. go get a large pry bar, stick it under the tire, and pry up to apply upward force into the wheel, place one hand on wheel feeling for clunk, load pry bar unload pry bar feeling for clunk. also sit down facing the wheel and give it some hardy tugs to feel for clunks.

A clunk would indicate bad ball joints or bad wheel bearing, the clunk can be pretty minimal but will be obvious with a sharp feel.
 

j.o.y.ride

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to test loose ball joints, jack the wheel to test up about a 1" off the ground. go get a large pry bar, stick it under the tire, and pry up to apply upward force into the wheel, place one hand on wheel feeling for clunk, load pry bar unload pry bar feeling for clunk. also sit down facing the wheel and give it some hardy tugs to feel for clunks.

A clunk would indicate bad ball joints or bad wheel bearing, the clunk can be pretty minimal but will be obvious with a sharp feel.
I think he's more referring to the gap between the washer and the knuckle vs it being bad internally.
 

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JohnFinx

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Mine are the same, so it's probably normal. The gap at the bottom (where the nut is) looks like there is some sort of spacer, it is wider than the top shaft. That might be what is holding the washer away from the knuckle.
 
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Darel

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Mine are the same, so it's probably normal. The gap at the bottom (where the nut is) looks like there is some sort of spacer, it is wider than the top shaft. That might be what is holding the washer away from the knuckle.
Ok thanks. I assumed since both mine were the same and I have no drivability issues other than the noise, it was fine but I just wanted to check. Thank you!
 

sass JT

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If you have the tools… personally I would check them. I have seen posts and YouTube videos on this subject… honestly if you made the post… sounds like you have a doubt.
 
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Darel

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If you have the tools… personally I would check them. I have seen posts and YouTube videos on this subject… honestly if you made the post… sounds like you have a doubt.
Not really. I've done dozens of sets of BJs and just never had them look like this. The noise I have is definitely not a balljoint noise, this is just something I happened to notice while I was under there scrounging around.
 

sass JT

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Not really. I've done dozens of sets of BJs and just never had them look like this. The noise I have is definitely not a balljoint noise, this is just something I happened to notice while I was under there scrounging around.
This is what I was referring too but hey if you say it’s fine it’s fine right???

 

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rharr

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Isn't the point of this thread he is concerned about his ball joints, if so check them or keep your head in in sand. But if you are going stick your head in the sand why ask?
 

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This is about lowers, but hey, this is a thread about ball joints.........
 

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MrFahrenheit

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This is what I was referring too but hey if you say it’s fine it’s fine right???

At 2:08 in that video his upper ball joint seems to look exactly like what the OP's does after guy said he torqued things down.
 

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Might have to tighten the castle nut. They become lose over time. It solved my issues with a squeaking.
 

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Might have to tighten the castle nut. They become lose over time. It solved my issues with a squeaking.
Jeep is the only vehicle I've ever seen where the ball joints and tie rod ends are ever an issue with the nuts or fitment into the steering knuckles and so on. Every other vehicle I've had "hands-on" time with uses a tapered joint that once it's torqued in place it ain't EVER coming loose, even over 50 years time and 200,000 miles. In fact with any other vehicle, you have to beat the crap out of things to get those parts to come loose or use a special tool.
There's no excuse for a design that allows parts like tie rods to simply pop out or ball joints to "get loose". That's pretty sad.
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