Lift - still conflicted

[cfowler55]

So I’m still trying to decide how to get a true 2” lift on my Mojave. What I don’t want to end up with is 3 or more inches of lift , which from researching , seems to be the norm with a lot of 2” kits. At this point I’m leaning on just doing the AEV Mojave spacer kit. If going this route , what would be brand recommendations for the Geo brackets and front track bar? And , should I do a rear track bar while I’m under there? Mainly a daily driver , but we do tow to Ouray once a year and do trails while there. 35” Falken tires , and don’t intend to go larger.
Thanks , Charlie F

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[azmojave]

AEV brackets. JKS track bar. Rear track bar not needed.

 

[Gizmo]

I have found Synergy springs are more accurate than most as far as advertised lift amounts with out an increase in overall weight is planned

 

[Bogiemyster]

I put on an AEV 2" lift and replaced the factory Falken 33" tires to Falken 35x11.5" tires. That provided a net 3" lift, and the Mojave rides great. I did not need to regear and the MPG has not changed. I did eventually install Rock Slide retractable rock slider steps to make it easier for my wife to get into the Jeep. A bigger lift, larger tires, and regearing would improve my rock crawling ability beyond the easier rated 6 trails in St. George, UT; but as the majority of my driving is on pavement, what I have works just fine.

 

[azmojave]

I should have recommended JKS brackets too but I wasn’t sure if they were sold separate. They are. This is what I have.
https://jksmfg.com/products/front-c...ft-jeep-wrangler-jl-and-gladiator-jt-b64f58eb

https://jksmfg.com/products/front-adjustable-track-bar-wrangler-jl-and-gladiator-jt-935db46f

 

[thedeatons]

AEV Spacer lift and AEV geo brackets is all you need. Did that on my wife's 24 Mojave X and it works/tracks perfectly. The only other thing I added is Teraflex front sway bar disconnects. That's it. Done. Easy. Plan for a 6 hour minimum install if this is your first one.

 

[Wheelin98TJ]

AEV 2" spacer lift. That's the only way to guarantee you will get exactly 2" of lift.

Skip the geo brackets for this short of a lift.

Clayton for the front track bar, but I'd measure after the lift is installed to see how far it's off and it's worth messing with.

 

[thedeatons]

AEV 2" spacer lift. That's the only way to guarantee you will get exactly 2" of lift.

Skip the geo brackets for this short of a lift.

Clayton for the front track bar, but I'd measure after the lift is installed to see how far it's off and it's worth messing with.

Disagree. AEV specifically recommends the geo brackets to be used with their 2" spacer lift. You can call and verify if wanted. It takes the flightiness out of the highway manners.

 

[Wheelin98TJ]

Disagree. AEV specifically recommends the geo brackets to be used with their 2" spacer lift. You can call and verify if wanted. It takes the flightiness out of the highway manners.

Well I disagree with your disagree.

I have a Clayton 2.5” lift with adjustable arms and no brackets and it steers and handles great on the highway. And that’s about 3.5” of actual lift height.

AEV says their brackets are for 2-4.5” of lift, so you’re at the very minimum lift height they work for.

If you don’t need them, I wouldn’t add them.

 

[Zachanadandy]

Well I disagree with your disagree.

I have a Clayton 2.5” lift with adjustable arms and no brackets and it steers and handles great on the highway. And that’s about 3.5” of actual lift height.

AEV says their brackets are for 2-4.5” of lift, so you’re at the very minimum lift height they work for.

If you don’t need them, I wouldn’t add them.

I wouldn't call them a need anymore than adjustable arms, as you can drive a JT down the road with less than 4⁰ of caster. Now if you want it to track straighter you'll want closer to 5.5⁰ which could be accomplished with a pair of adjustable control arms. The difference there is bump absorption. The flatter the arms the more bumps and potholes get absorbed vertically by the springs and shocks. The steeper they are the more of that force is transferred horizontally through the arms and into the frame. There's nothing to absorb that curve as everything is solid. I've run adjustable lowers from 2" to 4" of lift on 1 JLUR, adjustable lowers on 3.5" of lift on the next one, and then added drop brackets. On the JT I went with the AEV spacer kit. Added drop brackets 3 months later. Ended up going to 3.5" metalcloak springs after a year. Every Jeep had ridden better with drop brackets regardless of lift height. Even corrected for the same caster they make a difference. I wouldn't call them necessary but better is better.

 

[Wheelin98TJ]

I wouldn't call them a need anymore than adjustable arms, as you can drive a JT down the road with less than 4⁰ of caster. Now if you want it to track straighter you'll want closer to 5.5⁰ which could be accomplished with a pair of adjustable control arms. The difference there is bump absorption. The flatter the arms the more bumps and potholes get absorbed vertically by the springs and shocks. The steeper they are the more of that force is transferred horizontally through the arms and into the frame. There's nothing to absorb that curve as everything is solid. I've run adjustable lowers from 2" to 4" of lift on 1 JLUR, adjustable lowers on 3.5" of lift on the next one, and then added drop brackets. On the JT I went with the AEV spacer kit. Added drop brackets 3 months later. Ended up going to 3.5" metalcloak springs after a year. Every Jeep had ridden better with drop brackets regardless of lift height. Even corrected for the same caster they make a difference. I wouldn't call them necessary but better is better.

The stock length arms are plenty long enough to absorb bumps which should be done by the shocks anyways.

You don’t need drop brackets on short lifts.

 

[Zachanadandy]

The stock length arms are plenty long enough to absorb bumps which should be done by the shocks anyways.

You don’t need drop brackets on short lifts.

Like I said you definitely don't need them. On my mojave after the 2" spacers it had 3.5⁰ of caster. It was still plenty drivable. The caster could have been fixed with a pair of control arms, but the geo brackets are about the same cost or cheaper depending on which arms and brackets you're comparing. I found a set of evo drop brackets on the member marketplace brand new in the box for $100 shipped. With stock arms and the brackets caster was at 5.6⁰. I knew it would track straighter from the caster. The biggest difference was bump absorption. From potholes to speed bumps to washboard dirt roads at freeway speed the difference was dramatic and it was far better than stock. It's the same reason that long arms ride so much better. Being flatter means the axle and tires move straight up when there's an impact. Angled, even if it's not steep, means the axle moves forward and up on impact. That forward motion amplified the impact and transfers force into the frame via the control arms. Any lifted Jeep will ride better with better arm angle period. It's not only logical if you look at the suspension movement, I've tested it across multiple JL/JTs. The only thing that rides better are long arms...at 10-20x the cost they better.

 

[Pismo61]

You are all right,but with 2 inches of lift or less,less is better.Id do the lift,drive it and see.If a part is worn out that's another story.

 

[Zachanadandy]

You are all right,but with 2 inches of lift or less,less is better.Id do the lift,drive it and see.If a part is worn out that's another story.

If less was better lifts wouldn't exist. Better is better in my experience.

 

[cfowler55]

Well , for better or worse , I ordered parts. AEV spacer kit and geo brackets , Street Smarts Yeti XD track bar , and AutoLynx disconnects.

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