jurfie

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Getting old is the hardest thing ive ever had to do
Really? I've found it remarkably easy to do; and I'm not even trying to get old! ;)





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KurtP

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Tuggernuts

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View attachment 134711

Buddy came up and helped with the install. A quick word: It’s not terribly hard, but it is very involved and its a fair amount of work. If you even question “can I do this myself?” My advice to you would be not to try. There’s drilling, a lot of specific tq specs, measurements, on and on that have to be right or the truck wont drive right. If you’re comfortable WGD (Wrenching, Grinding, Drilling) and you have time on your schedule, then full send.

A quick exec-sum here followed by a couple pics and videos

So:
2020 Mojave.
What we did:

- Fabtech Mojave Specific basic lift. No, the shock mounts do not have to be drilled out with this kid the way they do on others. No, the springs did NOT compromise the ride of the Mojave system. They integrate flawlessly to the stock shocks and the truck rides like stock. MAYBE a touch stiffer, but its perfect. Minimal body roll increase if any from added lift height.

- Synergy Drag Link and Tie Rod w/ Fox 2.0 reinstalled w/ Dana HD ball joints

- @Clayton Off Road Overland+ control arm kit & adjustable track bars front and rear. This is REALLY nice shit.

- Rock Jock carrier bearing drop spacer

- Rock Krawler rear track bar relocation tower

- The front Teraflex track bar relocation bracket did not fit based on the bolt for the steering stabilizer relocation mount. I have a Synergy relocation bracket on back order, and will assess if my wheels will allow for a drag link flip. If I can DLF, I will do the bracket in the front as well.

- AEV Geometry correction brackets. These are a *GAME CHANGER* for your at-speed on-highway vehicle dynamics. The truck dives LESS NOW that it did stock under hard braking. For the “I wheel so hard Id rip those things right off” crowd: Eehhh, you really don’t. As you can see they arent that low relative to other points of the truck. If they dont work for you, that’s fine, build your truck as you see fit for your purposes. I prioritize vehicle dynamics over EVERYTHING else I do with suspension, hence the selection

- Total lift height came in between 2-2.5ish inches, and Ill add a 3/4 rear spacer to the rear to get some rake built in. If you want level truck, this lift is level as stock.

Pics of Geo bracket LCA mount vs stock rear frame LCA mount: there is no loss of clearance relative to other points.
5E381781-BD9D-4DE9-B61E-753A041F5600.jpeg
0376E3E9-E66E-49CD-9B60-119BBA0622CE.jpeg



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Hope that helps!!!
It looks and I’m sure it drives amazing. Nice work!
 
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KurtP

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It looks and I’m sure it drives amazing. Nice work!
Thanks! So far so good. Drives well. Going to be checking gear’s set in a bit to give the suspension a chance to settle, will recheck all tq values and alignment at that time.
 

AzRob

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So I want to ask a question, but I think no matter how I word it... I will look like I'm being a jerk.

Here goes.... Asking nicely

Besides the hood, now that you have done all this work, is there anything that still keeps your truck a Mojave? In other words, did you keep any of the Mojave pieces on with your new mods, or was everything that makes it a Mojave removed? I think you kept the shocks on right?
 
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So I want to ask a question, but I think no matter how I word it... I will look like I'm being a jerk.

Here goes.... Asking nicely

Besides the hood, now that you have done all this work, is there anything that still keeps your truck a Mojave? In other words, did you keep any of the Mojave pieces on with your new mods, or was everything that makes it a Mojave removed? I think you kept the shocks on right?
Fair question.

This kit retains the shocks, although i am in discussions that would potentially remove them this summer to test another type of shock. The shocks are phenomenal. But they are only a portion of what makes a Mojave a Mojave.

Retained: SRT style Mojave steering wheel, deeper Mojave bucket seats (which i positively LOVE), and the big one: the reinforced frame. Ive personally broken the coil bucket off a truck before. The reinforced frame and coil buckets on the Mojave were the number one reason i bought it. Its the only thing that cannot be replicated in the aftermarket.
 

Clv22p

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Looks great! I really appreciate the detailed videos!

May be a dumb question, but would it be “fine” to only do the basic fabtech lift?
 

DankjeeP

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“Beware the old man in a profession where good men die young.” Im learning to wear my grey with pride. 👍
Hell yeah...own the grey lol. You earned it.
 

DankjeeP

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Nice
View attachment 134711

Buddy came up and helped with the install. A quick word: It’s not terribly hard, but it is very involved and its a fair amount of work. If you even question “can I do this myself?” My advice to you would be not to try. There’s drilling, a lot of specific tq specs, measurements, on and on that have to be right or the truck wont drive right. If you’re comfortable WGD (Wrenching, Grinding, Drilling) and you have time on your schedule, then full send.

A quick exec-sum here followed by a couple pics and videos

So:
2020 Mojave.
What we did:

- Fabtech Mojave Specific basic lift. No, the shock mounts do not have to be drilled out with this kid the way they do on others. No, the springs did NOT compromise the ride of the Mojave system. They integrate flawlessly to the stock shocks and the truck rides like stock. MAYBE a touch stiffer, but its perfect. Minimal body roll increase if any from added lift height.

- Synergy Drag Link and Tie Rod w/ Fox 2.0 reinstalled w/ Dana HD ball joints

- @Clayton Off Road Overland+ control arm kit & adjustable track bars front and rear. This is REALLY nice shit.

- Rock Jock carrier bearing drop spacer

- Rock Krawler rear track bar relocation tower

- The front Teraflex track bar relocation bracket did not fit based on the bolt for the steering stabilizer relocation mount. I have a Synergy relocation bracket on back order, and will assess if my wheels will allow for a drag link flip. If I can DLF, I will do the bracket in the front as well.

- AEV Geometry correction brackets. These are a *GAME CHANGER* for your at-speed on-highway vehicle dynamics. The truck dives LESS NOW that it did stock under hard braking. For the “I wheel so hard Id rip those things right off” crowd: Eehhh, you really don’t. As you can see they arent that low relative to other points of the truck. If they dont work for you, that’s fine, build your truck as you see fit for your purposes. I prioritize vehicle dynamics over EVERYTHING else I do with suspension, hence the selection

- Total lift height came in between 2-2.5ish inches, and Ill add a 3/4 rear spacer to the rear to get some rake built in. If you want level truck, this lift is level as stock.

Pics of Geo bracket LCA mount vs stock rear frame LCA mount: there is no loss of clearance relative to other points.
5E381781-BD9D-4DE9-B61E-753A041F5600.jpeg
0376E3E9-E66E-49CD-9B60-119BBA0622CE.jpeg



Vids:







Hope that helps!!!
nicely done again sir 👍 You certainly did your research sourcing parts, and I too think the geo brackets are a good idea, even with adjustable control arms. In the XJ world it was always a debate between long arms and "drop brackets", but the JT is a different beast and I would have to agree you are not losing anything with the beefy Clayton arms. I did long arms on my XJ and it made a world of difference on and off road. The angle of the arms is everything. But the drop brackets on that platform were just stupid IMHO. Way too much leverage on them blah blah blah.
Also, if the track bar bracket comes loose, just weld it in place. DONE Anyway, great stuff!
 
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DankjeeP

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if you have jack stands on the frame and a jack on the rear diff you can just lower the rear axle once everything is disconnected.
Yes, the easy way is just unbolt anything that inhibits you from your goal. Wrenches, jack stands and floor jacks and sometimes PB Blaster, and if your friend didn't wash the mud off, a hose before you get started.
 
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KurtP

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Looks great! I really appreciate the detailed videos!

May be a dumb question, but would it be “fine” to only do the basic fabtech lift?
Imo no. Your geometry would be fucked. I'd say the bare minimum is the basic kit plus something to correct front caster. A geo bracket at the absolute bare minimum. Your axles will also not be centered in the frame, which would require track bars or track bar brackets.

You don't have to go "full send" the way I did....but I'd go with the Fabtech complete kit. NorthRidge sells it considerably cheaper than retail. At least then the truck will drive right, with quality components. You can lift a Mojave just fine without ruining it.....but you can ruin it quickly by lifting it incorrectly. We want it to be taller and drive more gooder-er, not more worser-er.... $.02
 
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immaechu

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I just got doing a lift on my Mojave too! We went with a Rock Krawler spring lift! With their Pro Link rear!

Gladiator.jpg
What front bumper is that?
 
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KurtP

KurtP

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Just did a 200mi highway trip. Truck drives great on the interstate. Remarkably stable, smooth, and controlled.

Next week:
-upgrading the sway links
-installing 3/4” rear spacers
 

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