Looking for diagrams/schematic of headlight switches from the 60s/70s

[ShadowsPapa]

Some folks are convinced that a headlight switch has to be grounded in order for the tail lights, parking lights and headlights to work properly. It's turned into a big deal and I'm finding out that there's a lot of people who believe that ground is necessary. One guy who runs a restoration shop even said "grounding the switch prevents feedback of the headlights into the parking lights" or was it the other way around and his proof - he grounded some headlight switches and the peoples troubles went away.
The ground is actually for the dome or courtesy lights.
I tried to explain that the tail lights are also not part of the headlight circuit and there can't possibly be "Feedback". And if there was - how could grounding a headlight switch solve it?
Anyway, I can't find any decent schematic or functional diagrams of headlight switches (Camaro, Mustang, 'cuda, etc.) to show what I mean. The simple one I found isn't showing the connections, terminals, etc.
I've looked through every book I have (dozens) including all of my AMC TSMs - all they show are the car's schematics, no functional diagrams of the switches. Motors, Chiltons and so on - same thing.
I've made a $50 challenge - show me, with a diagram - how grounding a headlight switch will resolve headlight or tail light problems or show a tech manual that says the same.
No takers but they still say their proof is the "fact" that they grounded switches and the problems went away.

So - looking for more diagrams.............

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[CrazyCooter]

Back then, the switches (metal cased) were automatically grounded through the metal dash. Ahhh, the kids today will never know the days when machines were built to last.......

 

[Hootbro]

I like the classic Detroit iron just as much as the next guy, but "built to last" is the last thing I think of when remembering them.

Growing up, every 30K miles was a major service of new tires, shocks, points,spark plugs and wires, fluids in tranny/diff, transmission bands adjustment, brakes and probably some more I am missing. Sure one could skip a few of those things but it would not be long before you were forced by failure to change one of those items put off.

By 100K miles, a lot of that old stuff was clapped out and was trade in time. Not saying the new stuff is much better and trades one set of problems for another, but one has to like constantly tinkering to keep the classic stuff going.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

Back then, the switches (metal cased) were automatically grounded through the metal dash. Ahhh, the kids today will never know the days when machines were built to last.......

Problem is - by the late 60s the mounting areas were plastic. So ground wires and ground straps were used. But that was for the DOME lights since those always have power and the door switches ground those lights to turn them on. So, the headlight switch had to do the same - ground the dome lights to turn them on. But people - some, anyway, seem to believe that also has something to do with headlights.
Can't get across to them that if you grounded the headlight circuit at the switch - well - do you enjoy the smell of smoke?

 

[ShadowsPapa]

I like the classic Detroit iron just as much as the next guy, but "built to last" is the last thing I think of when remembering them.

Growing up, every 30K miles was a major service of new tires, shocks, points,spark plugs and wires, fluids in tranny/diff, transmission bands adjustment, brakes and probably some more I am missing. Sure one could skip a few of those things but it would not be long before you were forced by failure to change one of those items put off.

By 100K miles, a lot of that old stuff was clapped out and was trade in time. Not saying the new stuff is much better and trades one set of problems for another, but one has to like constantly tinkering to keep the classic stuff going.

Car below has about 194,000 miles - the engine went 160,000 before starting to lose oil pressure (the previous owner abused the poor thing and likely weighed about 400 pounds judging by the broken seat frame, extended seat belt and 3 broken springs)

I have all of the schematics for hundreds of cars but can't find a diagram or schematic of the headlight switches used back then.

I have dozens and dozens of books, books that are nothing but wiring diagrams, binders of TSBs (service bulletins), a number of TSMs (technical service manuals) and shelves loaded with the professional versions of Mitchell manuals you had to subscribe to - but no headlight switch schematics or internal diagrams!

I am HOPING some classic MOPAR or Ford or Chevy person has something..........

 

[CrazyCooter]

Have you looked at Autozone's website? When I swapped my 4.0 and AW4 trans into my YJ, they had all the wiring diagrams online if you created a free online account.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

Have you looked at Autozone's website? When I swapped my 4.0 and AW4 trans into my YJ, they had all the wiring diagrams online if you created a free online account.

Haven't tried that. The problem is - I have the full vehicle schematics, but can't find any of the switch itself to prove the paths through it don't include a ground for tail or headlights.
Most don't even get that the headlight switch is actually 3 in one - one totally independent for headlights powered by the battery directly because there's a breaker IN the switch, another part that is independent is for the tail lights and parking lights - powered by a fused source (some have parking lights on only on first position out, some have parking lights on any time the switch is pulled out)
And then the part for the dome lights - lead from dome lights to the switch and the switch grounds the lights turning them on.
They aren't electrically connected at all but need a diagram of the internals to prove it.

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