Looking for ditch lighting illumination ideas…

[Bandit’s Lair]

Me too. And I have all I need. But I love lighting.

I have BD fog lights but that’s it. I can only do the front end lighting at the moment because I have future plans for the rear end but it’s kinda fun figuring out different layouts. I’ve flip flopped between AuxBeam and Diode Dynamics and 5 billion times at this point. Every now and again I throw Tyri in there but they don’t have backlighting at this point.

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[BourbonRunner]

So did anyone else get sent down the rabbit hole of looking at lighting AGAIN? Or is it just me………

Sent? I got Spartan kicked into it.

 

[WILDHOBO]

I have BD fog lights but that’s it. I can only do the front end lighting at the moment because I have future plans for the rear end but it’s kinda fun figuring out different layouts. I’ve flip flopped between AuxBeam and Diode Dynamics and 5 billion times at this point. Every now and again I throw Tyri in there but they don’t have backlighting at this point.

I’m a huge KC fan. Using their flex era 3’s as fogs with amber covers. 4’s are on the bumper for off road.

 

[Bandit’s Lair]

I’m a huge KC fan. Using their flex era 3’s as fogs with amber covers. 4’s are on the bumper for off road.

I’ve looked at KC a bit. Currently on a Diode Dynamics kick. I’m diggin how the fogs are on 2 circuits/fuses. Right and left so as long as you’re careful on wire gauge it’s very easy to run 2 sets of fogs with no additional switching. Thinking 3” pods in the bumper and 6” bars over the fairlead. That would be adequate for about 90% of any night wheeling I’d be doing. Of course wild hairs frequently happen so maybe a driving beam across the bull bar for longer throw would be a good idea. Slippery slope.

 

[WILDHOBO]

I’ve looked at KC a bit. Currently on a Diode Dynamics kick. I’m diggin how the fogs are on 2 circuits/fuses. Right and left so as long as you’re careful on wire gauge it’s very easy to run 2 sets of fogs with no additional switching. Thinking 3” pods in the bumper and 6” bars over the fairlead. That would be adequate for about 90% of any night wheeling I’d be doing. Of course wild hairs frequently happen so maybe a driving beam across the bull bar for longer throw would be a good idea. Slippery slope.

Two sets is pretty cool. Pictures?

 

[WILDHOBO]

I’ve looked at KC a bit. Currently on a Diode Dynamics kick. I’m diggin how the fogs are on 2 circuits/fuses. Right and left so as long as you’re careful on wire gauge it’s very easy to run 2 sets of fogs with no additional switching. Thinking 3” pods in the bumper and 6” bars over the fairlead. That would be adequate for about 90% of any night wheeling I’d be doing. Of course wild hairs frequently happen so maybe a driving beam across the bull bar for longer throw would be a good idea. Slippery slope.

This is how mine currently is, of course there are more scratches since this was taken in September.

 

[Neomonk21]

I bought some Harbor Freight lights that are both spot and flood and they have amber backlighting. I haven't hooked them up yet because I'm trying to plan out what I want to do. My current issue is running the amber lights. I don't know where to tap to get power for them. I thought I wanted to tap into the DRL cable so I bought the Quadratec tap harness. I also want to run some pre-runner lights off of this tap. I was going to do a small 4-post wire block so I can run multiple things from that DRL signal but was worried I was going to be drawing too much power through it.

Also, I'm ashamed to admit that I don't know the different between DRL, parking, etc lights. I thought DRL were on all the time. Do they turn off when you turn your headlights on?

 

[Bandit’s Lair]

Also, I'm ashamed to admit that I don't know the different between DRL, parking, etc lights. I thought DRL were on all the time. Do they turn off when you turn your headlights on?

This is going to be light dependent. OEM I believe the DRl will turn off when the main beams are activated. On some pod lights the same is true but others just keep power flowing through to both. It really just depends on the circuit board and, more importantly, the level of sophistication of the circuit board.

I’ve considered doing the same thing with the 4post wire block. Depending on how many lights and if they’re on a 2 plug harness it “should” be work. Just remember you need the amount of wires plus 1 for the board supply. I may have overlooked that once or twice. DRL are a fairly low current so I don’t see it being a huge problem even if it gets dorked up. Most of em are about 1.5w or something in that realm.

 

[Bandit’s Lair]

Two sets is pretty cool. Pictures?

I haven’t even pulled the trigger yet. They’re pricey so if I make a purchase on something that level I make damned sure it’s exactly what I want before I buy. Have to wait until I start getting paid from work stuff anyway.

 

[Gizmo]

Any reason these wouldn't work ? Much better price than some others mentioned . jeep-jk-jl-drl-turn-signal-tap-splitter-adapter-pair

 

[WILDHOBO]

Any reason these wouldn't work ? Much better price than some others mentioned . jeep-jk-jl-drl-turn-signal-tap-splitter-adapter-pair

Don’t see why not.

 

[Gizmo]

I will know if they ever get here .

 

[WILDHOBO]

I will know if they ever get here .

It’s the little things.

 

[Gizmo]

I guess UPS can't figure out where to send it . It made it a half hour away Thursday night started processing it Friday morning then nothing since

 

[Bandit’s Lair]

I guess UPS can't figure out where to send it . It made it a half hour away Thursday night started processing it Friday morning then nothing since

FedEx got me last week like this. Told me an anniversary gift was going to be here Friday. Now says it’s showing up today. Better late than never I guess but kinda disappointing.

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