Looking for someone to make these pigtails (electric)

[ShadowsPapa]

I'm needing to "specialize" a bit more in my shop work and let someone else do what they do best with the correct tools. Thus, I am looking to find someone who can make me up a bunch of the following wire leads as shown in the photos below (for money, of course!)
I restore classic car electrical parts and do plating for people restoring AMC cars.
Among the things are restoration of the HVAC blower motors. Restoration means new wire leads not just for safety, but because the wires show.
I don't have the correct proper tools for the types of crimps these need, and I've not been able to find the correct terminations - like the ground look or the hot lead connector.
I spend my time on the motor itself, prepping, powder coating, plating, any repairs needed internally, new brass rivets for the bushings/bearings and such and it would just be more cost effective to pay someone who already has the correct tools and could knock these out in minutes.
My wiring tools date way back and aren't the highest end for this type of connector plus - I've had an impossible time finding them.
The wires are 14 gauge copper, white for power, black for ground.
Frankly these danged things are the sticking point. Too much time being spent trying to find the connectors and then make them right.

If you are interested in making these up, please let me know.
OR - if no one is interested......
If you at least have a source for these correct ends and the best tool that would do a factory appearance and connection on the wire, that would be handy to know. It would be just as easy for me to buy a batch of 50 - 100 of these already made up, though.

I have to give up trying to do it ALL myself - my time is best spent on the other parts and plating.
I now have a restoration shop in MI wanting me to do stuff.

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[Kevin_D]

The crimp is the easy part.
Finding the terminals, especially the push-ons, will be a challenge.
Do you have some pictures showing more details? And how long do the leads need to be?

Kevin

 

[ShadowsPapa]

The crimp is the easy part.
Finding the terminals, especially the push-ons, will be a challenge.
Do you have some pictures showing more details? And how long do the leads need to be?

Kevin

I can give as many details as needed. 14 gauge wire, and I have the notes on how long the black needs to be vs the white (shorter)

The plastic shell, as I call it, isn't a problem. Those are seldom damaged. I'm not worried about the black piece that pushes onto the terminal. I remove and clean and re-use those and have rubber maid tubs or wiring harnesses I can salvage those from.

It's the terminal within that's the problem, and my crimping tool dates way back and is a generic used for multiple purposes.

I can send one of each of the original terminals or even original leads complete as I have blower motors I use for parts, too.

I just sent two blower motors out to customers this AM and have several more to do.

 

[Kevin_D]

Honestly, how critical is it that the ¼" push-on terminals be absolutely correct? If the terminals have a plastic cover over them, are the judges going to pop off the covers to inspect the terminals, even in concours?

Kevin

 

[ShadowsPapa]

Honestly, how critical is it that the ¼" push-on terminals be absolutely correct? If the terminals have a plastic cover over them, are the judges going to pop off the covers to inspect the terminals, even in concours?

Kevin

No, but if you look at the connector itself, it has two "notches" in the end and the terminals I have found, the type that has curled edges that the flat slides into, don't fit the shell and by the time you notch those to fit the shell there's not a great connection, besides having to put a wheel in the Dremel and trim the corners of every single connector and make sure it fits the plastic shell - and will make good contact and doesn't sit back too far in the shell.

Check out where the lock tab sits on each type, and how much of the connector sticks out to make a connection or is left up inside the shell.
I'm not concerned about looks inside the plastic shell - just that it does't sit so far back it only makes half a connection (it's high amperage and gets hot at the resistor).
To make total contact when pushed on, well, these don't until the thing is pushed half-way on and I have to modify each one by hand to make it work.

They can be either type - but the ones on the right don't fit, they sit back in the shell and are off to the side inside the plastic - and - you have to trim back the end corners to make them fit and snap in.

 

[Longarmtj]

Those appear to be molex locking/star ring terminals and spade connectors. That 1/4" piece isn't looped back to add another spade and possibly broken?

 

[ShadowsPapa]

Those appear to be molex locking/star ring terminals and spade connectors. That 1/4" piece isn't looped back to add another spade and possibly broken?

No, and it's not a type that has a "release" like some similar terminals have. There's no switch-back for a piggy back.

I believe I have found the terminals - but need to verify.
I'll need to find a decent crimp tool for these, but I'm not about to jump into a $200 crimp tool like one place has (and that's their cheap one)

I also need these flat spades like this -

I believe I need these -

640417-2

640416-2

63482-1

And a crimp tool - need to figure out a good one but not spend a fortune.

How most of them start out -

 

[Kevin_D]

I use something very similar to this one:

https://www.amazon.com/IWISS-Harness-Crimping-Computer-Automotive/dp/B01M1YK5FM/

It's a two-step process, but, with a little bit of practice, you can make pretty clean crimps.
I looked for the terminals, but you've obviously spent more time looking than I did!

Kevin

 

[ShadowsPapa]

I got the heavy artillery out as far as measuring things (micrometer and steel rules) and two of those numbers are spot-on but one is a definite no-go.

640417-2 - good, a perfect match

640416-2 - good, a perfect match

63482-1 - not a good match. LOOKS correct but size is wrong. So back to the drawing board on that one.
I have engineering drawings of each and compared, and wrote my measurements next to theirs so it will be easier to compare now.

I added the measurements of the connector (ring terminal) I am trying to match to the drawing I got of 63482-1, which is a bit small.

 

[abe57]

Try this. I have one and works great! https://www.ebay.com/itm/Crimping-T...2349624.m46890.l49286&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0

 

[Jcsii]

If you want a good crimp getting the TE tool is your best bet. You can go with the cheaper option and solder the connecter after you crimp it.

The tools I have don't match that part number unfortunately.

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