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DAVECS2

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I wish it was as easy as building a stout rotating assembly. The current Achilles heel, is the valvetrain, and I have spoke with comp, and they want 10k to think about launching tooling. With the right tuning the bottom end lives all day long I have 37K on mine and most of that at 12 psi. I hVe had to replace both intake cams, rockers, and followers. It is running well now knock-on wood, but there are no diagnostics for the VVL system and to boot the highlift cam is a metal on metal configuration, like an old school flat tappet.

Stock machines do not feel the cam going away as fast because they do not need the airflow as much, also to be fair not every 3.6L will have this problem. I have been into some higher milage machines, that are still doing OK.

I have also seen a guy loose an engine right after installing his supercharger and doing his first interstate kick down.

I wish HP Tuners would review the 2021 runing definition a little closer as it does not work as well as the 2020.

If I had my choice of things to make this platform hum, it would be the following

1. Billet intake cams with matching Rocker arms
2. Upgraded VVL solenoids with some type of warning when they are clogged
3. Holley retrofit engine controller that would retain the stock functionality, but allow you to use a known calibration
4. Electronically controlled bypass valve
5 forged rotating assembly
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jwolfejt

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I wish it was as easy as building a stout rotating assembly. The current Achilles heel, is the valvetrain, and I have spoke with comp, and they want 10k to think about launching tooling. With the right tuning the bottom end lives all day long I have 37K on mine and most of that at 12 psi. I hVe had to replace both intake cams, rockers, and followers. It is running well now knock-on wood, but there are no diagnostics for the VVL system and to boot the highlift cam is a metal on metal configuration, like an old school flat tappet.

Stock machines do not feel the cam going away as fast because they do not need the airflow as much, also to be fair not every 3.6L will have this problem. I have been into some higher milage machines, that are still doing OK.

I have also seen a guy loose an engine right after installing his supercharger and doing his first interstate kick down.

I wish HP Tuners would review the 2021 runing definition a little closer as it does not work as well as the 2020.

If I had my choice of things to make this platform hum, it would be the following

1. Billet intake cams with matching Rocker arms
2. Upgraded VVL solenoids with some type of warning when they are clogged
3. Holley retrofit engine controller that would retain the stock functionality, but allow you to use a known calibration
4. Electronically controlled bypass valve
5 forged rotating assembly
I'd be willing to chip in towards that $10k - if this is a group buy type of deal.
 
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vmiaptetr

vmiaptetr

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Somebody go buy my supercharger on the marketplace!
 

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vmiaptetr

vmiaptetr

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Does anyone know if the kit made for the JT will fit on a 2014 JK? I have a potential buyer asking about it?
 

JeepingJohn

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I wish it was as easy as building a stout rotating assembly. The current Achilles heel, is the valvetrain, and I have spoke with comp, and they want 10k to think about launching tooling. With the right tuning the bottom end lives all day long I have 37K on mine and most of that at 12 psi. I hVe had to replace both intake cams, rockers, and followers. It is running well now knock-on wood, but there are no diagnostics for the VVL system and to boot the highlift cam is a metal on metal configuration, like an old school flat tappet.

Stock machines do not feel the cam going away as fast because they do not need the airflow as much, also to be fair not every 3.6L will have this problem. I have been into some higher milage machines, that are still doing OK.

I have also seen a guy loose an engine right after installing his supercharger and doing his first interstate kick down.

I wish HP Tuners would review the 2021 runing definition a little closer as it does not work as well as the 2020.

If I had my choice of things to make this platform hum, it would be the following

1. Billet intake cams with matching Rocker arms
2. Upgraded VVL solenoids with some type of warning when they are clogged
3. Holley retrofit engine controller that would retain the stock functionality, but allow you to use a known calibration
4. Electronically controlled bypass valve
5 forged rotating assembly
I just had my Maggie installed and now my Gladiator is in limp mode giving a Throttle Body code and the pedal position sensor is reading at 100% even when it is in idle position. We put a different Throttle Body on and got the same errors. Also wiped and re-installed the tune. Disappointed I spent 9k and can't even pull out of the driveway. Any thoughts on what would cause those codes?
 

DAVECS2

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I just had my Maggie installed and now my Gladiator is in limp mode giving a Throttle Body code and the pedal position sensor is reading at 100% even when it is in idle position. We put a different Throttle Body on and got the same errors. Also wiped and re-installed the tune. Disappointed I spent 9k and can't even pull out of the driveway. Any thoughts on what would cause those codes?
Need a year and trim type
 

DAVECS2

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Need a year and trim type
The sensor labels are a bit misleading. The throttle body actually has two position sensors in it and one is labeled pedal. My guess is you are not getting power to that one. It reads in reverse of the throttle body. So 0V is wot. Also the map sensor extention in the kit is not keyed, so make sure it is plugged in the right way.
 

JeepingJohn

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We are getting some Ian rain on us right now. Will try that as soon as we can. Thanks. I will follow up.
 

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LiftedLous

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Just installed a Maggie on JeepingJohns 20gladiator. About 70k miles in good running condition with no issues prior to the supercharger. I missed reconnecting the IBS when I hooked the battery up. Truck ran excellent for about 20miles. Then dash went crazy. Figured out the IBS connector wasn’t hooked up fixed that and unhooked both batterys for a few hours and then reconnected it and let it sit per some info Maggie sent me. I’m pretty confident that was the root of all my issues as I drove the Jeep almost 50miles yesterday with no issues. I now have a random

P0418 implausible data recieved from brake system control module 1



I did a 50%ish throttle pull from a dig and got a cylinder 6 misfire code and the p0418

it also has some auto start stop issues but customers stated that was goingon for awhile before.
 

JeepingJohn

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Lifted Lou got it figured out. The small plug that connects to the negative battery cable was accidentally left unplugged and the system could not properly read the voltage. that made it think the aux battery was dead and it put the Jeep into limp mode. Plugging that back in and disconnecting both batteries overnight did the trick. Over 300 miles on it since Sunday morning and it runs like a beast.
 
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vmiaptetr

vmiaptetr

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Dropped the price on my Maggie in the classifieds to $3k. If I can’t get that for it, I’m throwing it in the garbage.
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