Max tongue weight for 2024 Sport S with automatic trans and tow pkg (not Max tow)?

[A 2]

I put my little xt250 on the back with a black widow 400 rack. truck was lightly loaded with 1 additional passenger. Granted the xt is a pretty light moto, no sway issues or poor steering.

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[ShadowsPapa]

...and in the 2024 manual as well, cause it hain’t there.

For those of you who are more familiar, did any other major specifications change between 2022 and 2024? Because if they didn’t, I would role with the published 2022 specs that @ShadowsPapa posted, but that’s just me.

The trucks haven't changed as far as axles used and width and weights and so on.
I could give several examples of where third parties f'd up part numbers and specs.
Ordered a Torqueflite selector shaft seal from RockAuto. What came was a tail shaft seal. It wasn't worth their bull crap sending it back (and they argued that since their supplier said it was correct, there was no return anyway). I went to O'Reilly's and asked them - they came up with a tail shaft seal - 6 times the diameter of a selector shaft seal and in a much larger box. Tried Advance - same thing. Went to NAPA, who sells a different line of seals - it was perfect.
There was a screw up in the National Seals book that all of those companies, but NAPA, went by.

Timken bearing sets for a 4x4 front hub - wrong bearings in the set. Again, checked with RA, O'Reilly's and all of the others - WRONG bearings. I went into the Timken book - WRONG! So I contacted Timken directly, got in contact with someone in charge, explained the situation, showed them NOS hubs with the factory bearings with Timken numbers. The guy tracked down the problem, apologized profusely and fixed it in their master lists. That was the bearing company themselves. I wonder how long that fix took to trickle down to parts stores and how may ticked off vehicle owners there were - blaming the parts stores?

Steering stabilizer - ordered from RA (and that was the last time I ever ordered from them) and they sent me a stabilizer - that was huge, way to big in diameter and the collapsed length would not allow a full turn! I contacted RockAuto, showed them photos of a correct stabilizer with the correct numbers, supplied dimensions, even the factory part number. RA refused to listen, refused a refund because when RA contacted the supplier where the parts actually ship from, they said - nope that is absolutely the correct part, we stand by our listings and parts, the customer is wrong. That really pissed me off as there I was with a factory original part laying side-by-side with their new part and any 1st grader could see the difference, not to mention the factory part number from my factory parts books crossed to a different number, not their number. Went to a store and they gave me the correct part without as much as a single question. I gave them the make, model and year, guy looked it up, walked back to the shelf, there was the correct part. No more RA for me - total of 3 times getting the wrong part and twice they argued.

Before I had my shop ready, I took a car in for an alignment - I had the specs copied out of the latest version of the TSM so they could use the corrected factory numbers (the prior numbers were wrong, the auto maker corrected them and issued an update to the TSM.
The shop did the alignment, using the numbers their computer had instead of the corrected numbers I supplied. They grab the first numbers the factory releases and use them, even if wrong. I tried to show them, sorry, we have to go by what our computerized system shows (I'm sure to protect their sorry asses).
I later fixed it myself. They also ignored the factory warning about the tie rod sleeve clamps and had them facing UP - the steering LOCKED on me as I left their lot because the sleeve clamps snagged on the frame - I was lucky I could armstrong it back as a semi was fast approaching. I warned them and supplied the factory warning.
See, these people only know one thing - what the book or computer shows them. They don't bother thinking or accepting any changes or corrections.

As far as uhaul - who knows what they go by - but I bet that 7,000 is a RUBICON tow number. They probably did a search, came up with a dealer site that said the JT could tow 7,000 and they went with it. Same for the Silverado - different trim levels and different axle ratios had different tow ratings. Mine was in the middle. I bet they did a search, found a number and ran with it, even though my truck was a heavier truck with a lower gear ratio and a higher tow rating. Nope, you can't tow that trailer with that car loaded.
So I went to a different uhaul location, told them I was hauling an old VW bug and got a trailer (my trailer was down for the count due to busted axle at that time and I needed a trailer to haul a vehicle I was getting for the engine and electronics)
I don't like uhaul for a number of reasons.............and knowing they don't do any research or update numbers as things change from the manufacturer is just one of the reasons.

I put my little xt250 on the back with a black widow 400 rack. truck was lightly loaded with 1 additional passenger. Granted the xt is a pretty light moto, no sway issues or poor steering.

Yeah, but what does that thing weigh? I bet 300 tops, with fuel and mud included. Add the carrier and I bet you are still under 325.

Biggest thing to look for in a rack like that with the weight up that high is that the carrier is snug in the receiver and can't rock back and forth. If it can rock or move, you know about mass in motion, plus the wear and tear.
I bet that carrier has a device to clamp it against the receiver so it can't rattle and wobble. If so - then you are likely ok.
You have a light bike and it's close to the butt of the truck. (well, as close as practical)

 

[A 2]

Yeah, but what does that thing weigh? I bet 300 tops, with fuel and mud included. Add the carrier and I bet you are still under 325.

Biggest thing to look for in a rack like that with the weight up that high is that the carrier is snug in the receiver and can't rock back and forth. If it can rock or move, you know about mass in motion, plus the wear and tear.
I bet that carrier has a device to clamp it against the receiver so it can't rattle and wobble. If so - then you are likely ok.
You have a light bike and it's close to the butt of the truck. (well, as close as practical)
[/QUOTE]

Yes, 325 max with the rack. I installed an anti-rattle device on the hitch to take away the slop. I wouldn‘t put anything heavier on the back than it.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

Yes, 325 max with the rack. I installed an anti-rattle device on the hitch to take away the slop. I wouldn‘t put anything heavier on the back than it.

Glad to see you thought of that.

Anyway, nice to see reality, personal experience, real world weights and so on.

 

[Sandman 4x4]

With any tow vehicle you need enough payload capacity for at least 10-15% of the loaded ready to go trailer, including a weight distribution hitch, that gets reduced from the payload rating. My Sport S without Max Tow is rated for 4,000lbs. Of trailer, with a payload rating of 1,044 lbs. that I was disappointed to discover, that means at least 400 lbs tongue weight to 600lbs. That leaves me with 344-544 payload left for EVERYTHING ELSE! That should be the same as your own. You need to check the sticker in the drivers door jamb for weight ratings.

 

[Labswine]

My Sport S without Max Tow is rated for 4,000lbs.

Why? Because you didn't get the full factory tow package?

If you have the full factory tow package, your tow rating is 6,000 lbs.

That's what it is for my Overland with the tow package (ordered 5/19, delivered 7/19).

 

[Sandman 4x4]

Why? Because you didn't get the full factory tow package?

If you have the full factory tow package, your tow rating is 6,000 lbs.

That's what it is for my Overland with the two package (ordered 5/19, delivered 7/19).

Yea that’s right. The Max Tow is rated for 7,700 lb tel and 1,675 lbs payload. My Sport S without is 4,500, 1,175. Reason is a number of factors, springs, shocks, wheels/tires and extra coolers.

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