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Metalworkers...cold bluing question

madduck

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I'm building a stand for a sink that will go in the guest bathroom. It's steel and i'm welding it, so it has to be finished after it's constructed.

I was considering doing a patina on it, but not sure if that's the 'best' way to go. But, I don't know what is best, i've never done any bluing. I found the following video that addresses cold bluing. I've no tie to this vid or channel, I found it via a search. The dude is in Switzerland, I'm not eeeeeven close to there.


Has anyone here ever done this via the cold process?
Is there any reason i should not try this on a steel, sink stand?
The only thing I see as a negative, off the top of my head, is possibly the cost. The stand isn't huge, but due to the size of the bottles that most of the solutions come in, I could see the $$$ as significant.

Thanks for any comments, pro and con.

Cheers...ā˜•
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Angry

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How big is the stand? How much water exposure do you expect the stand to have? I blue firearms often and can assure you the cold blueing process does very little in the way of surface rust protection. Splashes and drips will rust very quickly. Itā€™s not expensive at all, a couple bottles of oxpho will go a long way, but itā€™s not a durable finish because youā€™re really just staining the surface. Rust bluing, with a good carding and oiling process, is more work but more durable.
 
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madduck

madduck

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Thanks for your time angry.

The 4 legs are 1-1/2" sq tubing, 33" tall. Really, that is majority of the mass. The top is square and make from flat stock, laid flat, 1-1/2"x 1/8". I'll have a shelf about 1/2 down for a few towels. I'm not sure how I'll make that. I may weld on a couple tabs and use wood for the shelf so you'd never even see the tabs.

The top of the stand, that's lays on the flat stock, is a 2" thick piece of mesquite that is about 32x32. On top of the mesquite will be a concrete vessel sink. I'm using pre-cut fleur de le tabs to hold the mesquite/sink on the stand. The stems of the fleur de le's are curved, so I'll tack them to the underside of the flat stock.

After the bluing i would shoot a couple coats of clear over it to keep the wear and rust away.

The other thing i was thinking was the scuplt nouveau patina once, then shoot a coat, or 3, of their spray on patina followed with some clear.
https://sculptnouveau.com/

I'd like as flat, smooth black/blue finish that i can get.
Thanks again.
 

Hipbilly

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In my experience, with guns a litttle and knives a lot, cold bluing is not a great option. you really have to repeat and repeat the application to get a uniform oxide layer that looks decent; even then it will wear off quite easily. Plus, as mentioned above, it's not much of a rust inhibitor, AND, it will always leave a metalic smell on your hands when you touch it. always.

I like to use a forced patina on my steel kitchen knives, all you gotta do is boil 5% acetic acid (plain white vinegar), cut the heat, and lower your clean (NO OIL) workpiece into the liquid. let it soak for 20-30mins and it'll do the work. Once you pull it out, it'll be covered in a fine black lamp soot like coating; just let it dry completely, wipe it down, and steel wool back to your desired shinyness.
 
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madduck

madduck

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Good morning AR.
Love your state. A buddy is getting back today from 2 weeks of mtn biking in the Bentonville area. Beautiful area.

Because of the odd size and shape, and construction, i dont think dipping is an option. I wish I had the eqip to do so, that'd mean i have a killer shop. But...not there quite yet.

But...since replying to you guys I came up with an idea. I may heat and quench my fleur de le's and see how they turn out. On them, the portion I tack wont be seen and they are small enough i can heat and submerge them.

Thank you Sir
 

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ShadowsPapa

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Plating or powder coating as options????? or maybe those won't leave you the sort of look you are after.
 

brianinca

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I was going to say, having cold blued complete blackpowder pistols, it's NOT a durable protective finish. Unless you put a HUGE amount of time into it, cold blue will look like POOP. Heck, hot bluing isn't, it just looks amazing. I have also Parkerized a number of rifles, THAT wouldn't be a nice finish for furniture.

Powder coating is incredibly flexible as to finish and very reasonable in cost, and the finishes can be quite durable. Can you get a similar finish to what you want that way?


Plating or powder coating as options????? or maybe those won't leave you the sort of look you are after.
 

IslandFalconer

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Iā€™m a blacksmith, cold bluing isnā€™t all that good. If you wanted something with patina and lasting effect rust bluing would be the way to go. Aside from that, in a bathroom powder coating would probably be the toughest
 

ShadowsPapa

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I powder coated the frame and drive end housing of this starter, and the suspension parts below.

I also power coated the aluminum parts of an attachment for my wife's quilting machine in translucent raspberry, you can do almost any color, any sheen, you want.

More flexible than paint, chemical resistant, resists gouging and chipping.....

Otherwise, my guess is that hot processes will be your best bet.

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