Missing bolt

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Update: I CANNOT find a replacement bolt for this. The dealership has given me what they say is the correct bolt but it doesn’t work. The Mopar website/diagram isn’t correct and doesn’t match what’s actually on the vehicle. Anyone know where to get one? The bolt to the left is the correct one and the one on the right is what my dealer claims is the replacement. Not the same.

Wow, I just looked at your picture. I have the bolt on the right which is correct for my Jeep. Strange.

 

[SCRubicon23]

Wow, I just looked at your picture. I have the bolt on the right which is correct for my Jeep. Strange.

It’s weird because that bolt is what’s shown on the factory diagram but that’s not what I have. The diagram shows a nut and bolt bit my nut is welded in place with the bolt on the left.

 

[Renegade]

I’m to the point now where I’m about ready to drill the threads out and put a bolt and nut on it

It’s likely I will eventually cut the bracket off and have a stronger one fabricated. I’ve already ripped the nutsert out of one side, And am using a regular bolt/nut. My point here is that you don’t need to make too much of the bolt not looking exactly like the other one. As long as it functions, you’re good.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

So can you explain why the one on the right won't work? It could be a replacement for the original.
They DO reserve the right to make changes and supersede parts with new number replacements.
All I see is that one has a captive washer, the other does not. Otherwise the threads look to be the same, the length the same - frankly, I'd use it.
I could show you just on vehicles I own and have restored how many times things changed, even in one model year.
If the length is the same, if the threads are the same, if the hardness is the same - use the bloody thing. What's it going to matter whether the washer is captive or not? That's for assembly, not for anyone else.
In short, having been a restorer for years - why is that not the right bolt?
There is one time I'd not use it - on a classic I was RESTORING for show points. Then they do look at parts to match. But no judge would deduct if it's a factory or dealer supplied bolt and both sides match. So unless this is for show - I see no issue, frankly.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

Wow, I just looked at your picture. I have the bolt on the right which is correct for my Jeep. Strange.

NOT strange, likely a running change. Factory diagrams show representations of things like bolts - they reserve the right to make running changes and will update the diagram as the parts listings are changed.
I'd bet it is the CURRENT correct part.
I see no big deal - so it's lacking a captive washer and isn't self-tapping - but the threads are the same and the length is the same. As long as the strength is the same rating - where's the problem unless it's a show truck?

 

[Factoid]

Flange head bolts are industry standard today as is thread locker vs. any kind of lock washer.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

Flange head bolts are industry standard today as is thread locker vs. any kind of lock washer.

Yes, so you are also stating the one on the right the dealer gave him is the current correct bolt.
That supports my asking - what's the problem?
One on the left - original
One on the right - the CURRENT correct part.
The one with the washer won't torque as accurately - the one on the right will give better torque accuracy.
Use the one on the right - and if it was me, I'd replace both with that style. (and LocTite)

 

[HorneyBadger]

The question is whether the bolts that have come loose or missing had a lift or is factory. I know a couple bolts loosened up after I had the mopar lift performed. Pulled, locktite and re-installed.

 

[SCRubicon23]

So can you explain why the one on the right won't work? It could be a replacement for the original.
They DO reserve the right to make changes and supersede parts with new number replacements.
All I see is that one has a captive washer, the other does not. Otherwise the threads look to be the same, the length the same - frankly, I'd use it.
I could show you just on vehicles I own and have restored how many times things changed, even in one model year.
If the length is the same, if the threads are the same, if the hardness is the same - use the bloody thing. What's it going to matter whether the washer is captive or not? That's for assembly, not for anyone else.
In short, having been a restorer for years - why is that not the right bolt?
There is one time I'd not use it - on a classic I was RESTORING for show points. Then they do look at parts to match. But no judge would deduct if it's a factory or dealer supplied bolt and both sides match. So unless this is for show - I see no issue, frankly.

The one on the right will not thread on. Needs to have that tapered/self tapping end.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

That tapered "self-tapping" end is for first time install only - it makes its own threads. Once there are threads, there are threads, they don't disappear.
IF they are the same diameter in inch up from the end, and the same thread pitch, it will indeed work - UNLESS the other was never far enough in to make threads!
It's possible the original was never far enough in to cut threads - if that's the case use the self-tapping bolt to make threads, pull it out and use the new one.

Self-tapping is for first-time, FACTORY use only, not for later repairs.

I'll put it this way - if it was mine, I'd bet it would work.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

The question is whether the bolts that have come loose or missing had a lift or is factory. I know a couple bolts loosened up after I had the mopar lift performed. Pulled, locktite and re-installed.

He says there are no threads for the new bolt. Either he's wrong OR the bolt was never fully in enough to cut threads. Subsequent bolts don't have to be self-tapping.

Any time suspension is changed, all bolts holding anything that pivots or moves - going through a bushing, needs to be torqued while it's on the ground. If a lift was installed and those not loosened and re-torqued while on the ground AT THE NEW HEIGHT, that can be a problem.

 

[Factoid]

Let’s be clear on terminology here. That is not a self-tapping bolt. It is a self-centering bolt that allows the use of a power driver without hand threading the first few threads with almost zero risk of cross threading.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

Let’s be clear on terminology here. That is not a self-tapping bolt. It is a self-centering bolt that allows the use of a power driver without hand threading the first few threads with almost zero risk of cross threading.

I clicked to enlarge the pic on my computer (instead of my little chromebook) and that's right -
it's not self-tapping. (good call)
There's no notch or other means to actually cut threads. It self-centers via the unthreaded end and the gradual appearance of threads beyond that.
In any case, the other bolt appears in the photo to be of the same diameter and thread pitch - it will work unless there are problems with the threads up there.

His original is similar to these I plated for a restorer - for use with automated equipment to prevent cross-threading and get a straight start.

 

[ShastaJT6]

Its the damnedest thing. I went out to my truck saturday morning and sure enough, the drivers side rear sway link.. the same fastener, the one that connects the sway link to the frame was AWOL.

I picked up new fasteners and washers at ACE and replaced the missing one, as well as the one on the passenger side. I went with M12 x 1.50 thread pitch x 60mm - 10mm longer than the OEM ones, to allow for a bit more thread engagement, and made sure to add blue Loctite as well.

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