Mojave Coil Springs

[unixxx]

Looking at Timbren SES (basically taller bump stops, no?) and I like the idea of the added support under load, but that longer bump stop would limit up travel when wheeling, would it not?

I still feel like the best option would be a slightly longer, slightly stiffer spring. Maybe JUST a slightly stiffer spring. Technically stiffer springs all around would bring me back to factory Mojave height (with all my added weight), but then the valving of my awesome Fox shocks would need to change no? Wondering if I'd get away with leaving them alone...

I purchased the Timbren SES but never installed it since the metal hardware was terrible. The backing plate/puck wouldn't fit into the Mojave bump stop retainer (possibly because the retainer is boxed in on the Mojave?) and the production welding on the backing plate nut distorted the nut so much that the bolts would no longer thread into them. I basically have to re-fabricate the hardware to make it work.

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[unixxx]

That looks PERFECT. Those rear lower arms are right at the angle I'm looking for but WITH the load! What did you do up front? Their same springs but for the front? Shock extensions as well or work with factory? (I'd like to keep them, hoping they respond similar to the Clayton springs as OEM springs.)

@ajkaz dude... IDEAL, no???

I should mention that the rear control arm angles could look better due to the Teraflex rear geometry correction brackets I installed.

 

[RacerAV]

Looking at these Clayton springs:

Jeep Gladiator 1.5" Triple Rate Rear Coil Springs 2020+, JT
Triple Rate
Free Length = 21.250" +/-.25
Spring Rate 1 = 145 lbs/in
Spring Rate 2 = 250 lbs/in
Spring Rate 3 = 320 lbs/in

IIRC, the OEM front springs are 18" long, and roughly 150 lb/in rate. Anyone know the rear OEM lengths? (Rates seem like 170 lb/in I've heard.)

Looking at these Clayton front springs:

Jeep Wrangler JK/JL 1.5" Front Coil Springs, & Jeep Gladiator JT 0.5" Lift Front Coil Springs
Free Length = 18.00"
Spring Rate = 160 lb/in

My GOAL is to keep stock shocks, height, rake, etc... but while carrying the winch, front bumper, Decked, gear in the drawers. I don't love spacers, bags, etc. In my mind, I want the springs to do what they're supposed to do, no band aids, if that makes sense. I don't mind a little squat while towing my 4800ish lb trailer fully loaded. Currently, I'm an inch from the factory rear bump stops when towing the mostly empty trailer, probably around 3800 lb. and 400 lb. tongue weight. I also don't like the idea of losing any up travel with a massive bump stop or something like that...

I don't mind experimenting a little, but don't want to waste too much money getting it right.

 

[0duksgvn]

Im considering switching to the clayton 2.5" coils front and rear, ditching the oem coils and aev spacers. Mojave with aev kit and 37s btw. Just wondering if the stock shocks are gonna play nice with the added bit of lift and different coils. Anybody have any feedback on this idea?

 

[RacerAV]

Im considering switching to the clayton 2.5" coils front and rear, ditching the oem coils and aev spacers. Mojave with aev kit and 37s btw. Just wondering if the stock shocks are gonna play nice with the added bit of lift and different coils. Anybody have any feedback on this idea?

Id imagine with the correct shock spacers and bump stop pads you'd be okay, just moving the working zone of the shocks really...

I just installed Synergy 2" springs, with bump stop spacers, and shock relocation brackets. Rides maybe 20% stiffer than OEM (via my butt dyno). Slightly higher too, no measurements, but the RLCA are now pointed slightly downward rather than upward if that helps. I have a Decked with a bunch of gear in it, so probably 350lbs total. I occasionally carry a dirt bike, quad, and smaller 50cc bike in the back/hitch, and sometimes I tow a 4500lb trailer. Hoping this solves my squat problem...

I'll probably install the front Synergy 2" springs later. I have a stubby steel bumper and warn 10k winch, so little added weight there too.

 

[yoda13]

If I was only trying to get the suspension height back to stock, then the suspension geometry wouldn't change from stock and I would only change the springs.

But because I lifted 2.5", I changed basically everything on the suspension to correct the geometry:

AEV shock extensions
AEV bump stop extensions
AEV extended sway bar links
AEV front geometry correction brackets - restores caster and control arm angle
Teraflex rear geometry correction brackets - realigns differential pinion
Clayton front and rear adjustable track bars - realigns axles laterally
Teraflex front and rear track bar geometry correction brackets - raises roll center and restores track bar angle
Rock Jock extended rear brake lines (ABS lines should also be extended)

In the rear spring stack I currently have:

Teraflex coil spring top retainer
Clayton spring
Teraflex spacer
Teraflex bottom coil spring retainer

In the front:

Clayton spring
Mopar coil correction isolator on driver side
Rock Jock shim on passenger side

Why do you need the coil correction isolator and rock jock shim on the front springs? Why the spring retainers on the rear? I ran those on my JK, but only had to with my last set of springs. I am thinking about Clayton springs for mine, so I want to know what I am getting into! Thank you.

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