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Alpine Warthog

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There's a kit for Rubicons and their vents. maybe
I'm not saying that your modification was right or wrong, but much time has been expended by the engineers of Jeep with regard to cooling and venting of the engine bay. There is a reason why the engineers designed the different hoods and the effort you put in modification to this system seems to have landed you in a position you did not want to be in. Since you're not leaning toward placing it back as the engineers intended, maybe a snorkel system would help you out? It will definetly alter the airflow.
You might be right in regards to the base model hood, I doubt they did anything with the Mohave or Rubicon hoods. They just slapped a piece of plastic for good looks. They didn't test anything because it was never supposed to be used.

They finally did a little testing when the 392 intake was built but all they did there was take advantage of a fake hood scoop that already existed. fabbed up an intake and tested to see if it allowed enough air.

I think some people put WAY to much trust in the "they tested it" thing. They tested to the point that it passes EPA regs. after that they don't care.

The only designers I put any trust in (designed to get the most.....) is the lucky people that get to play on the special editions like the TRX or 392 editions. They are actually getting paid to get as much as they can because their project is going to be money-is-no-object-edition
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smlobx

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Just read this thread. Sorry for being late to the party but in getting back to the OP’s original issue maybe you can remove the rubber gasket along the top of the truck near the firewall that seals it to the hood and that might allow hot air to escape. Either way it would be easy to reinstall if that didn’t pan out.
….and I agree 100% about engineers ?
 

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Big 10-4, I'll have to look into that. I would rather have no hood scoop, than a fake hood scoop.?
What about a shaker hood scoop mechanism from a Pontiac Trans am? They make repro kits to make the phony shakers scoops into real ones. that way you can open it when you want and seal it off when you need it.
 

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I'm glad I was able to entertain you, now you get out there and polish the dealership stickers on your Jeep, champ. :clap:
I'm not sure what this means, I wouldn't allow any dealership stickers, but thanks for calling me champ, I do feel pretty good. Engineering can be hard, though I wouldn't call it 'champ' level, some is common sense.
 

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I would put faith and trust into the pioneer thinking men on this board long before I would a corporate engineer, and so should you.
All I am saying is that the hood is designed a certain way and a lot of non-corporate engineering and design expertise went into "why" it was made this way. Would I cut the scoop hole out.....probably not. Reason; I see no need to do it. I do agree that some engineering of the JT and JL was subverted by govt. regulations; ESS and aux batt placement are examples. Now, if I were to do it like you did, and if I were having an issue, like you were having, I would still suggest a snorkel might be enough to alter the airflow and look good too. That would be my pioneer thinking to assist you.
 
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Go big or go home!!! Just cut a big ole hole in the top, and do like the old-school blower coming out the top of the hood. That would look bad arse, but would need an engine to back it up.

edit : nonfunctional of course. ;-)
 
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There's a kit for Rubicons and their vents. maybe

You might be right in regards to the base model hood, I doubt they did anything with the Mohave or Rubicon hoods. They just slapped a piece of plastic for good looks. They didn't test anything because it was never supposed to be used.

They finally did a little testing when the 392 intake was built but all they did there was take advantage of a fake hood scoop that already existed. fabbed up an intake and tested to see if it allowed enough air.

I think some people put WAY to much trust in the "they tested it" thing. They tested to the point that it passes EPA regs. after that they don't care.

The only designers I put any trust in (designed to get the most.....) is the lucky people that get to play on the special editions like the TRX or 392 editions. They are actually getting paid to get as much as they can because their project is going to be money-is-no-object-edition
I'd rather donate my Mojave to a hippie commune than trust the engineers to have tested my Mojave hood for anything other than looks. Not that I have anything against hippies.
 
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Just read this thread. Sorry for being late to the party but in getting back to the OP’s original issue maybe you can remove the rubber gasket along the top of the truck near the firewall that seals it to the hood and that might allow hot air to escape. Either way it would be easy to reinstall if that didn’t pan out.
….and I agree 100% about engineers ?
Funny you should mention that, I'm going to try that shorrtly. So, after two days of no howl, driving to work this morning it started up again. Seems to only do it on colder days. It was really warm yesterday morning with a 40mph wind, and no howl. I did try blower motor on and off with no difference, then about two miles before I got to work, I moved blender doors to floor heat, and it changed something, but it was too short a drive to really tell. I may start blocking off sections of the firewall to try and pinpoint the problem, stay on course and just let more air out, or both. Thanks for all your ideas guys, I really do appreciate it!!!
 
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I'm not sure what this means, I wouldn't allow any dealership stickers, but thanks for calling me champ, I do feel pretty good. Engineering can be hard, though I wouldn't call it 'champ' level, some is common sense.
It means you don't strut into an exterior mods tavern like John Wayne and start giving people shit about making exterior mods.
 
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@smlobx, I noticed there's corners on either side of that weather seal also that a guy could probably easily R&R, I saw a place, Red Rock, or Rock Ridge, has a low snorkel cowl corner that, if not plumbed into the airbox, would essentially make the passenger corner a huge vent, just spitballing here. ;)
 

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All I am saying is that the hood is designed a certain way and a lot of non-corporate engineering and design expertise went into "why" it was made this way. Would I cut the scoop hole out.....probably not. Reason; I see no need to do it. I do agree that some engineering of the JT and JL was subverted by govt. regulations; ESS and aux batt placement are examples. Now, if I were to do it like you did, and if I were having an issue, like you were having, I would still suggest a snorkel might be enough to alter the airflow and look good too. That would be my pioneer thinking to assist you.
There seems to be some confusion as to what I've done here, a couple posts make it sound like I took a die grinder to my hood, lol. I didn't cut anything, all I did was remove a $40 piece of plastic, remove a $5 piece of plastic from that, and reinstall it. If a little extra air can make or break a 60K truck, the "engineers" should be hanged.
 
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I'd rather donate my Mojave to a hippie commune than trust the engineers to have tested my Mojave hood for anything other than looks. Not that I have anything against hippies.
I like the way you operate.:)
 

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My sincere apologies OP. I thought you chopped your hood and I was basing my texts on what you should try in order to help with this issue.
 
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My sincere apologies OP. I thought you chopped your hood and I was basing my texts on what you should try in order to help with this issue.
No problem pardner, any help is appreciated ?
 

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Just look at what they did with the cooling system
The thermostat opens at 190 degrees
The cooling fans comes on at 1/4 speed at 221 and will only go fulls speed at 231 degrees
I have been trying to get control of the cooling system by adding a pusher fan on the condenser put this is what I found
Most cars including the jeep JK the condenser is mounted 1/4 to 1/2 in. from the radiator
On the Jeep JL the condenser is about 1 1/2 in. away from the radiator
I can get the pusher fan to shoot air though the condenser at 150 MPH put as soon as it hit the radiator the air blows out the large gaps between the condenser and radiator and no air going through the radiator
Next step was to close the caps between the condenser and radiator to force the air through the radiator
So now I have about 15% of the air going through the radiator and the rest of the air is blowing back though the condenser and trans cooler
Two things wrong here. The gap between the condenser is to large and the radiator WILL NOT allow free flowing air to pass through it whether you are pushing air at 150 mph with a fan or diving down the road at 60 /70 mph and that is why you see a 40 degree swing in the coolant temps. You would thing driving down the road you are getting air passing through the radiator put you are getting very little to none until the fan kicks in and sucking the air through the radiator
I ordered a Mishimoto radiator (back ordered) it looks to have a more open core that will allow more free flowing air to pass through
I will install the Mishimoto and see how it goes
And NO. The radiator is not plugged in any way inside or out side. The jeep did this from day one . New in 2020
The Engineers got this one wrong
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