That is just the teraflex kit. It's cost conscious. Kits like the Clayton are complete spring and shocks replacement along with control arms and track bars.
Awesome looking truck! Did you have to add wheel spacers to make sure there was no rub with the stock Rubicon wheels at full articulation? Did you upgrade your front drive shaft?To me it’s just simple math. For example, going from a rubicon with 32.8” Falkens to 36.5” Mickey Thomsons is almost 4” of tire size. 2” of that is between the tire and the inner fender. That, plus the fact that the larger tires are wider, makes a 2” lift just enough to fit the tires. But now with larger tires, many of us are taking tougher lines, and therefore want better articulation without rubbing. It seems like 3” virtually guarantees function without compromise, and it’s not tall enough to change COG a lot like a 4.5 or above. A 2 or 2.5 lift will get the job done with 35’s, but will likely be just barely enough with anything much bigger.
The first picture is 32.8” Falken AT’s with stock Rubicon suspension.The second is JKS J Venture 3-3.5” lift springs in front, Ram 1500 springs in rear. Fox 2.0 shocks front and rear. Tires are 37” MT Baja Boss AT which are around 36.5”.
Thank you very much. It’s a work in progress like most. I’m using Spidertrax 1.75 spacers and there is zero rub on all four with sway bar disconnected and at full steering lock. I like the stock look and the bonus that the wheels are light. No drive shaft changes were necessary unless I went higher. Having learned from this forum, a Dana rear drive shaft spacer might be in my future. I’m interested in opinions as I’ve received drive shaft recommendations regarding strength, but not pinion angle at this height. One shop doesn’t like that the aluminum drive shaft can’t take a hit, and doesn’t like the mid bearing at all. I get that, but I like the CV connection and light weight. As I understand it, if I switch to something like Adam’s, I’m back to U joints. It makes me tempted to just buy a spare mopar rear for really serious trails like The rubicon or holy cross. I’m admittedly not a drive shaft expert, so opinions are welcome. I didn’t want it any higher than necessary to fit the tires well, since lifts don’t help with axle ground clearance. I did regear to 5.13 and the only thing currently missing is the back ordered front RCV axle shafts. Until they come in I’m just careful with the front locker when steering. I also replaced steering components with Yeti Steersmarts stuff, which made it stronger and took care of any geometry problems. Steering stabilizer is Yeti as well now.
Thanks for the info. I am still torn on what lift route I am going to go. Once I sort out a good price for the Ram 2500 I am trading/selling, the order for the Gobi Sport S with max tow will be placed. I am torn between rough country with some extra links and track bars or the metal cloak dual rate.
I went the route I did to not lose any payload capacity. I’ve seen clayton and metal cloak lifts with bed racks and/or bed weight, tents, trailers, etc, and the ones I’ve seen have a sag when loaded. I know I’m not going to get as much articulation as metal cloak or kings with coil overs, but I can drive and tow safely at 80mph without sag. I’m not a huge fan of dual and triple rate springs either. The sections of the coils that are super close together just end up acting like hard spacers as there isn’t any cushion there. I’d rather have heavy duty evenly spaced springs that provide full articulation and payload capacity. I also used sumo springs to replace the bump stops front and rear.
I guess I missed JKS in my research. Now I am leaning towards this plus an adjustable rear trackbar
You just need to up your rationalization game. Once you get that down, it's easy peezy. lolI guess I missed JKS in my research. Now I am leaning towards this plus an adjustable rear trackbar
Adulting sure is hard when you are trying to mix looks, performance, fun, stability and affordability. Of course a healthy dose of ignoring responsibility helps making the looks and fun easier to decide on.
I did the fixed length front LCAs as well. I used a bent clayton rear track bar to make room for the 37 spare at full articulation. It works well.I guess I missed JKS in my research. Now I am leaning towards this plus an adjustable rear trackbar
Adulting sure is hard when you are trying to mix looks, performance, fun, stability and affordability. Of course a healthy dose of ignoring responsibility helps making the looks and fun easier to decide on.
