Mopar Lift with Level Kit

[LoJac963]

Morning everyone.

I am curious about leveling my Rubi with the Mopar lift installed. I do have a full metal bumper with winch and so the front is 2.25" lower than the rear. I was thinking going with the Teraflex kit and doing the full 1.5" stack. That being said, the Teraflex kit comes with bump stops but the Mopar kit already has longer bump stops so do I just omit the Teraflex bump stops?

Also, I am assuming a level means adjustable control arms for geometry correction right? I'm sure such a small list would be fine but to do it technically correct the caster has to be kept within spec?

Thanks in advance.

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[cornholio8]

I currently have a stock JTR and looking at getting a 2 inch mopar lift with at least a 1 inch spacer in front for leveling as well. I'm not sure on JT but my wives JLU didn't get very good caster angles with the 2 inch mopar kit's control arms. I wonder how this is with JT? I'm questioning which lift to get if I'm gonna pay for control arms to scrap them.

Has anyone added the Rancho relocation brackets? Have they retained the 2 inch mopar control arms or switched back to stock?

Or is this a non-issue on JT?

Sorry LoJac963 Not trying to Hi-jack thread. But seems relevant to discussion. I would look at longer bump stops or get the MC ones that stack.

 

[cornholio8]

No love for these questions?

 

[Tufelhundin]

I don’t have the answers, but I do have an adjustable trackbar, the rancho relocation brackets and quick disconnects in the back seat of my Sport as I type this. My Mopar lift is at the dealer which is currently closed due to the hurricane.

I was supposed to Have this installed tomorrow with 1.5 pucks in the front for i have a winch and bumper as well and i lost a solid .5” when added, but that will probably be delayed for some time now.

im currently sitting here with multiple trees down and living off of two generators... so no power here.

But... back to topic. Numerous people here have gone this route on the forum “Mopar with level”. Some used adjustable control arms and a couple have opted for the rancho steering geometry Braces.

I opted for the braces for I don’t rock climb and like you I wanted to use the existing control arms in the kit.

Sorry about this post. For I’m on my phone and outside in this 107 heat trying to get a signal, lol.

 

[cornholio8]

Thank you for the information and sorry to hear about the Hurricane circumstances. Let us know how it rides once completed.

 

[brianinca]

The JTR's caster is marginal with the same lower control arms as the other models. I took my brand new truck to the suspension shop I use for all my vehicles, and they said the factory 4 deg caster was inadequate and the toe in was excessive to try and compensate, and the wandery steering was just something to live with.

I bought the cheap LCA's ($60 for the pair) from the Mopar lift kit and swapped them in, which got me to 6 deg of caster and made the steering stability a non-issue. Still getting the upgraded steering box, of course.

Any lift kit I buy will have adjustable arms and trackbars, so the Mopar kit is right out of the running FOR ME. You're already compromising CG with a lift, why screw up the suspension geometry even more with fixed caster limitations?

Adjustable LCA's and front trackbar would be the minimum you'd need to add to the Mopar kit, in my view. I hate relocation brackets, I took one off my YJ because a Hotchkiss spring system doesn't need a freakin' trackbar in the first place! Drop brackets for a Ford IFS (old I beam style) are the same kind of screwed up bracket relocation geometry, you should cut and turn the beams and use long radius arms, do it right the first time.

If you can get a good deal on the Mopar kit, and some folks are getting SMOKING deals, then $500 for adjustable LCA's and front trackbar might be an easy fix for you.

I currently have a stock JTR and looking at getting a 2 inch mopar lift with at least a 1 inch spacer in front for leveling as well. I'm not sure on JT but my wives JLU didn't get very good caster angles with the 2 inch mopar kit's control arms. I wonder how this is with JT? I'm questioning which lift to get if I'm gonna pay for control arms to scrap them.

Has anyone added the Rancho relocation brackets? Have they retained the 2 inch mopar control arms or switched back to stock?

Or is this a non-issue on JT?

Sorry LoJac963 Not trying to Hi-jack thread. But seems relevant to discussion. I would look at longer bump stops or get the MC ones that stack.

 

[cornholio8]

The JTR's caster is marginal with the same lower control arms as the other models. I took my brand new truck to the suspension shop I use for all my vehicles, and they said the factory 4 deg caster was inadequate and the toe in was excessive to try and compensate, and the wandery steering was just something to live with.

I bought the cheap LCA's ($60 for the pair) from the Mopar lift kit and swapped them in, which got me to 6 deg of caster and made the steering stability a non-issue. Still getting the upgraded steering box, of course.

Any lift kit I buy will have adjustable arms and trackbars, so the Mopar kit is right out of the running FOR ME. You're already compromising CG with a lift, why screw up the suspension geometry even more with fixed caster limitations?

Adjustable LCA's and front trackbar would be the minimum you'd need to add to the Mopar kit, in my view. I hate relocation brackets, I took one off my YJ because a Hotchkiss spring system doesn't need a freakin' trackbar in the first place! Drop brackets for a Ford IFS (old I beam style) are the same kind of screwed up bracket relocation geometry, you should cut and turn the beams and use long radius arms, do it right the first time.

If you can get a good deal on the Mopar kit, and some folks are getting SMOKING deals, then $500 for adjustable LCA's and front trackbar might be an easy fix for you.

This is part of my problem. I can get the Mopar lift on Amazon for 1250 or so. Which is about what I paid 2 years ago for my wives JLU Sahara. I added a Yeti adjustable track bar / rear track bar bracket and falcon stabilizer and it rides good but caster in on the edge of questionable.

I want more than 2 inches on my JTR, so was looking at additional spacers which would ruin the caster for sure. I been researching lifts ever since not finding something that really works because I'm stuck on wanting fox shocks because that's what I'm tearing off. And cheap...

I looked and the 3.5 metal cloak lift a few times with shock extensions for my factory fox.

Where are these smoking deals? haha

 

[rmtn03]

I got mine used from someone who bought their gladiator last year and when the mopar kit was really the only one around. I spent maybe $600 on it, plus new tools I needed and didn't have. Not bad right? I'm in the same boat, I want a lift but I'm not sure what else I absolutely have to do for a well performing jeep and what I can piece in over time as funds become available.

 

[HuskyTaylor]

Morning everyone.

I am curious about leveling my Rubi with the Mopar lift installed. I do have a full metal bumper with winch and so the front is 2.25" lower than the rear. I was thinking going with the Teraflex kit and doing the full 1.5" stack. That being said, the Teraflex kit comes with bump stops but the Mopar kit already has longer bump stops so do I just omit the Teraflex bump stops?

Also, I am assuming a level means adjustable control arms for geometry correction right? I'm sure such a small list would be fine but to do it technically correct the caster has to be kept within spec?

Thanks in advance.

I did the teraflex lift last weekend. I have the 2” Mopar lift but hated the rake that it still had. So I put the full 1-1/2” on and the truck is level now. I figured that since they don’t say anything about needing longer control arms with that lift and the Mopar lift already has them that it should be no different than a non lifted truck. It drives no different now than before. Side note I did add an adjustable track bar to center the axle.

 

[LoJac963]

I did the teraflex lift last weekend. I have the 2” Mopar lift but hated the rake that it still had. So I put the full 1-1/2” on and the truck is level now. I figured that since they don’t say anything about needing longer control arms with that lift and the Mopar lift already has them that it should be no different than a non lifted truck. It drives no different now than before. Side note I did add an adjustable track bar to center the axle.

I added a Rancho adjustable track bar after my lift install as well. I do still think we would need longer control arms given going up another 1.5" with the level kit. I am learning on how to take angle measurements for the axle/diff to see how far out of spec it is after the level kit. I always assumed aftermarket adjustable LCAs would be the next step.

 

[H-D Eric B]

I just added the fabtech 3” dual rate springs with a 3/4” spacer. My bumper with the winch is 150 lbs

 

[H-D Eric B]

Morning everyone.

I am curious about leveling my Rubi with the Mopar lift installed. I do have a full metal bumper with winch and so the front is 2.25" lower than the rear. I was thinking going with the Teraflex kit and doing the full 1.5" stack. That being said, the Teraflex kit comes with bump stops but the Mopar kit already has longer bump stops so do I just omit the Teraflex bump stops?

Also, I am assuming a level means adjustable control arms for geometry correction right? I'm sure such a small list would be fine but to do it technically correct the caster has to be kept within spec?

Thanks in advance.

I have my caster set on the high end at 6.8 and 6.9. drives amazing as fast as you want to go. i freeway drive a lot so 80+ is the norm 3 times a week. I was having some issues till I put adjustable control arms on it.

 

[LoJac963]

Reviving this old thread. I have a terrible right pull after the level install. Yes, I've had the TSB work already done as well, drove great after that. I am going to buy an angle finder tonight and see what is going on. I still think adjustable LCAs or relocation brackets are needed after the Level kit

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