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Need some help understanding geometry when lifting

KurtP

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Hey all. Need some help selecting a lift. I have a Mojave, and the goal is 37” tires with proper driving characteristics.

im looking at the mojave specific lift from Fabtech, and they have two options.

the first is 885$ and gives the springs, sway links, and bump stop extensions. The second is 2100$ and adds drag link flip, front and rear track bar brackets, and front and rear link arms. Price is no object, but i dont want to pay for something i dont need and i want the truck to drive as close to factory as possible.

what‘s better? Track bar brackets or adjustable track bars? Short link arms or a link arm bracket like AEV? Trying to decide which way to go. Just get the $2100? Or get the $885 then add drag link flip and geometry brackets.

thanks all.
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Don’t hate, but just a question. Why did you get a Mojave with a special designed suspension (which you pay for) to take it all off? Would just some spacers and keep the suspension not be better?
 
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KurtP

KurtP

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Don’t hate, but just a question. Why did you get a Mojave with a special designed suspension (which you pay for) to take it all off? Would just some spacers and keep the suspension not be better?
im not. The fabtech springs and shock extensions are Mojave specific.
 

DeezJT

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One lift is 3”, the other is 5”.
seems like your not settled on the actual height you want to with.

At over 5”, you’ll need a new driveshaft since the shocks will probably be over 28” extended. JL/JT can get away without steering upgrades at 3.5” unlike its predecessors.
You’ll also need trackbars since the front/rear tires will not be centered and stick out to one side more.
You’ll also want to address the rears pinion and recenter the rear axle as it doesn’t come with control arms.
Basically, the 5” is more incomplete than the 3”.

IMO (since I’ve ran different setups) Drop brackets like AEV will make the ride more plush and corner better than ones with adjustable/fixed control arms. You WILL scrape the drop brackets on deep ruts if you use your Jeep as intended. It will ultimately depend on your end goal with your Jeep.

i agree with @JBOverland You won’t have a Mojave lift anymore.
 
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KurtP

KurtP

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One lift is 3”, the other is 5”.
seems like your not settled on the actual height you want to with.

At over 5”, you’ll need a new driveshaft since the shocks will probably be over 28” extended. JL/JT can get away without steering upgrades at 3.5” unlike its predecessors.
You’ll also need trackbars since the front/rear tires will not be centered and stick out to one side more.
You’ll also want to address the rears pinion and recenter the rear axle as it doesn’t come with control arms.
Basically, the 5” is more incomplete than the 3”.

IMO (since I’ve ran different setups) Drop brackets like AEV will make the ride more plush and corner better than ones with adjustable/fixed control arms. You WILL scrape the drop brackets on deep ruts if you use your Jeep as intended. It will ultimately depend on your end goal with your Jeep.

i agree with @JBOverland You won’t have a Mojave lift anymore.
both of the fabtech options are 2” lift with dual rate springs. Its just a question of which way to go on arms vs brackets and why.

again, this is a Mojave specific lift that works with the Mojave shocks.
 

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I think the main thing here is what is the goal? For what the Mojave is designed for 37’s are not ideal. I think 35’s are perfect for a Mojave. It is a racer and not a crawler. But as stated AEV is best design in my opinion. They are expensive but they really think things through. But I am new to the Jeep world. Came from Toyota. So consider my opinion as just mine.
 

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@KurtP. If your staying with 2”, get the one without the drag link. You don’t need it. Adjustable CA...you really don’t need it at that height. Keep it minimal.
Since your keeping your shocks, I would get drop brackets. It will be more stable on the whoops and jumps as opposed to adjustable control arms.
 
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KurtP

KurtP

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I think the main thing here is what is the goal? For what the Mojave is designed for 37’s are not ideal. I think 35’s are perfect for a Mojave. It is a racer and not a crawler. But as stated AEV is best design in my opinion. They are expensive but they really think things through. But I am new to the Jeep world. Came from Toyota. So consider my opinion as just mine.
the main thing here is understanding what the difference is between geometry brackets and shorter link arms.
 
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KurtP

KurtP

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@KurtP. If your staying with 2”, get the one without the drag link. You don’t need it. Adjustable CA...you really don’t need it at that height. Keep it minimal.
Since your keeping your shocks, I would get drop brackets. It will be more stable on the whoops and jumps as opposed to adjustable control arms.
helpful. Thanks. So get the simpler kit, add the AEV brackets and some track bar brackets? or are you saying just the AEV drop brackets?

what does a drag link flip “do”?
 

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helpful. Thanks. So get the simpler kit, add the AEV brackets and some track bar brackets? or are you saying just the AEV drop brackets?

what does a drag link flip “do”?
The aev drop brackets would suffice. Add a front and rear Trackbar if needed (my Jt front at 3.5 lift was off my 1” (tire was and the rears were also off). I adjusted both.

Basically it levels out the drag link and helps with steering. I’ve had on on my previous Jeep jk on a RK 2.5 lift but tbh, It really didn’t do anything . At higher lifts, its recommended

attached are pictures of the rear. See how one tire sticks out more than the other?... I had to adjust trackbar (Metalcloak)....I did the same for the front.

986560E4-8D90-46B7-9585-08DD69033CEB.jpeg


F8110A77-8C1C-4B60-9505-01BC08EADAEE.jpeg
 

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KurtP

KurtP

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The aev drop brackets would suffice. Add a front and rear Trackbar if needed (my Jt front at 3.5 lift was off my 1” (tire was and the rears were also off). I adjusted both.

Basically it levels out the drag link and helps with steering. I’ve had on on my previous Jeep jk on a RK 2.5 lift but tbh, It really didn’t do anything . At higher lifts, its recommended

attached are pictures of the rear. See how one tire sticks out more than the other?... I had to adjust trackbar (Metalcloak)....I did the same for the front.

Jeep Gladiator Need some help understanding geometry when lifting F8110A77-8C1C-4B60-9505-01BC08EADAEE


Jeep Gladiator Need some help understanding geometry when lifting F8110A77-8C1C-4B60-9505-01BC08EADAEE
ok gotcha. so adj trackbars center the axle if needed; and track bar brackets “recenter” the roll-center?
 
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KurtP

KurtP

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The aev drop brackets would suffice. Add a front and rear Trackbar if needed (my Jt front at 3.5 lift was off my 1” (tire was and the rears were also off). I adjusted both.

Basically it levels out the drag link and helps with steering. I’ve had on on my previous Jeep jk on a RK 2.5 lift but tbh, It really didn’t do anything . At higher lifts, its recommended

attached are pictures of the rear. See how one tire sticks out more than the other?... I had to adjust trackbar (Metalcloak)....I did the same for the front.

Jeep Gladiator Need some help understanding geometry when lifting F8110A77-8C1C-4B60-9505-01BC08EADAEE


Jeep Gladiator Need some help understanding geometry when lifting F8110A77-8C1C-4B60-9505-01BC08EADAEE
one more question. What is your wheel offset? 9” wide +20?
 
 



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