New dash message - battery start/stop not available, service.

[Vtur]

After watched the video for a little bit. It's appears that this system used a voltage sensor to triggers a relay and a solenoid at a set voltage to disconnect the crank battery, to prevent it from draining.

I think we can achieve similar result and keeping the factory aux system intact. By replacing the factory crank batt with 2 batteries wired in parallel, with a solenoid between the hots. Using a relay wired as NC and triggers the solenoid with the aux switch. Hit the aux switch, separating the batteries when running accessories while engine off, then reconnect them to crank the engine over. For automatic, add a programmable voltage sensor device to triggers the NC relay.

Well that's just my thought. Time to sleep

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[Lost1wing]

I

Well, something is still up. the radio seems to have reset itself and doesn't know it's a rubicon? The instrument cluster still says rubicon, but the radio has lost function of displaying temperature's selected for heating/cooling, as well as I can't access off road pages, or cameras. But radio stations are still the same, and no more 'service start/stop system' messages are displaying currently.

I'm thinking all will be back to normal when you wake up this morning or later today.

 

[Mr._Bill]

Well, something is still up. the radio seems to have reset itself and doesn't know it's a rubicon? The instrument cluster still says rubicon, but the radio has lost function of displaying temperature's selected for heating/cooling, as well as I can't access off road pages, or cameras. But radio stations are still the same, and no more 'service start/stop system' messages are displaying currently.

When the 8.4 Uconnect is reset (loses all power), it can take up to 24 hours to return to normal operation. If the cellular service is poor, it can take even longer for it to recover.

 

[chorky]

This is the Genesis system installation video that I had bookmarked in case I decided to go that route.



that is the older system and a few things with the factory wiring harness has changed since then, the newer system is much cleaner

After watched the video for a little bit. It's appears that this system used a voltage sensor to triggers a relay and a solenoid at a set voltage to disconnect the crank battery, to prevent it from draining.

I think we can achieve similar result and keeping the factory aux system intact. By replacing the factory crank batt with 2 batteries wired in parallel, with a solenoid between the hots. Using a relay wired as NC and triggers the solenoid with the aux switch. Hit the aux switch, separating the batteries when running accessories while engine off, then reconnect them to crank the engine over. For automatic, add a programmable voltage sensor device to triggers the NC relay.

Well that's just my thought. Time to sleep

Yeah basically you have it right. However, to me the big selling point is removing the factory aux all together. It was a major pain removing it for this system, I can't imagine having to do that every 3-5 years.

When the 8.4 Uconnect is reset (loses all power), it can take up to 24 hours to return to normal operation. If the cellular service is poor, it can take even longer for it to recover.

Interesting. Now that you mention this I do recall reading something about it months ago. I did try a search but of course didn't find the right discussions. I will go start it up in a bit after coffee

 

[chorky]

It looks like the radio did find itself now. Back to normal and batteries were Holden steady at 12.75v. Due to the voltage the Genesis system has both batteries combined. When i turned the ignition on engine of ag after a few minutes i heard the combined open disconnecting the batteries from each other due to voltage drop from the systems on but engine off.

appreciative of everyones input during a mild freak out moment

 

[Fpolanco]

It looks like the radio did find itself now. Back to normal and batteries were Holden steady at 12.75v. Due to the voltage the Genesis system has both batteries combined. When i turned the ignition on engine of ag after a few minutes i heard the combined open disconnecting the batteries from each other due to voltage drop from the systems on but engine off.

appreciative of everyones input during a mild freak out moment

I’m glad everything worked out.

Just to confirm as I’ll be doing this install in the next couple months, you followed the video’s directions regarding the negative? I thought I read somewhere that Genesis changed this part of the install.

Thanks!!

 

[02sahara]

Have you done anything with the door wiring connections? I know it’s winter but I had a connection issue with the pins and after fixing them that got rid of the same message.

 

[chorky]

I’m glad everything worked out.

Just to confirm as I’ll be doing this install in the next couple months, you followed the video’s directions regarding the negative? I thought I read somewhere that Genesis changed this part of the install.

Thanks!!

Hey! This is why I love this forum. Helping each other out. To confirm, the new video from Genesis is accurate. I made the mistake of getting too excited even though I watched the video probably 10 times.

To confirm

• The factory auxiliary battery connector will need to be bolted to the factory MAIN battery connector
• the factory auxiliary negative battery connector will need to be taped and protected and stowed away. It will fit nicely underneath the plastic base of the distribution panel.
  

check out my full writeup here
https://www.jeepgladiatorforum.com/...wn-2022-jtr-journal.66430/page-2#post-1097352

Have you done anything with the door wiring connections? I know it’s winter but I had a connection issue with the pins and after fixing them that got rid of the same message.

I have heard of people experiencing this but I have not. I have not checked the connections either though. But after fixing my mistake, the warning is now gone. Time will tell if it returns.

 

[chorky]

@ShadowsPapa
I did a full writeup and explanation of the system. You can see it here post 25 and 26,
or just read the post as I quoted myself below

i would be interested in hearing your thoughts of the operation of this system.


https://www.jeepgladiatorforum.com/...wn-2022-jtr-journal.66430/page-2#post-1097352

Having no clue as to what that system does, how it connects in, how it isolates the batteries from each other, how it charges each battery and so on........... can't say much.
If it simply took the place of the aux battery and by using a larger battery to replace it, if it was otherwise wired IDENTICALLY in every way, that would be easier. But if there's any other electronics involved.......... can't say.
It does almost sound as if something else was impacted - a fuse blown, or some transient surge hit something.
There will be a fair spark when reconnecting the stock batteries into the stock system. The idea is to reconnect quickly and without on/off/on because of being startled - and make sure nothing else can have touched anything while working on the system.


(having worked in a high-end EE firm for a few years, observing, learning - electronics fail at power-up)



Then it's not just replacing the aux battery with a larger battery? What does the aux battery negative connect to, then? What/how does the second battery ground?
All the aux battery negative is doing by being connected to the main battery ground is - connecting it to chassis ground.
It's not magic - on a stock system all that aux negative cable is connecting to is the truck ground.

With my very poor drawing skills and without a wiring diagram designer software I will do my best to explain the system functionality.

System function:
This system works by manually or automatically combining and separating the Two batteries. Both ground cables are connected to the aux battery above the IBS. - everything is above the IBS. The combiner either combines or separates the positives of the batteries. In automatic mode, the system keeps the batteries combined as one so long as the main battery reads above 12.7 volts. As soon as the main battery drops below 12.7 volts, the combiner separates the batteries. The computer constantly monitors the primary battery voltage but draws very little power compared to say the radio. Now this can be overridden manually by either the G-Screen or the under hood switch. There is another optional function I opted for That I need to test and see its true function. The smart alternator will slowly lower charging voltage of the batteries when it senses the main battery is charged. Because the factory standard aux battery is always connected to the main battery when the engine is on and NOT during a ESS event, there is no concern about the batteries not both receiving a charge. However, as the alternator lowers voltage, it can cause a situation where the combiner does not sense a minimum 12.7 volts. In this instance the combiner will the disconnect the batteries from each other even though the engine is on and the new auxiliary battery will not receive a charge. So this engine on feature tricks the alternator into charging at a higher voltage. How it actually does thinI really do not know. But I tied it into the 10 amp engine on battery 12v supply wire that is under the glovebox. Mostly because that wire is also already feeding a engine on signal to the switch pros module so that it will function as well. But I will say there is value in this theory because last summer, I did see a few times where the insturment cluster gague showed charging voltage down the interstate was only at 12.3 or maybe 12.5 volts. So if that is accurate the combiner would disconnect the batteries from each other, which defeats the whole purpose of giving the aux battery a charge while driving. This monitoring of voltage also occurs when the vehicle is locked and off. Meaning if a solar charger or battery tender is connected to either the main or auxiliary battery, when receiving more than 12.7 volts from solar or a charger, it will combine and provide a charge to both batteries.

Take note of two important aspects

1. The factory auxiliary battery positive cable, when removed from the factory auxiliary battery, is bolted to the factory main battery cable.
2. the factory auxiliary battery negative cable, when removed from the factory auxiliary battery, is taped up to prevent contact and stowed away disconnected from anything. The cable, due to splices and connections to the negative of the main battery, is still necessary to remain in the vehicle.

When wiring

1. The main positive cable is connected to the new main positive battery terminal
2. The main positive cable has an additional wire going to the battery combiner input
3. the output of the battery combiner goes to the positive terminal of the auxiliary battery
4. the main negative (IBS) is connected to the aux battery negative terminal
5. the main negative (above the IBS) also has another wire going to the main battery negative terminal.
6. The auxiliary battery terminals also have wires going to big lugs to attach accessories. These accessories are essentially powered by the auxiliary battery at all times. When disconnected by the battery combiner, all items hooked to these lugs are powered from the auxiliary battery
7. when combined, all items are powered by the main battery or alternator as the system is essentially a parallel circuit.

Ok so a few more things. The system has a switch on it under the hood that is an on/auto/off mode. Meaning you can manually force the combiner to combine, or to run automatically, or to be forced to separate the batteries.

Another attachment, called the G-Screen, goes into the cab. It gives functions such as letting you combine, auto, or separate the batteries without using the manual override under the hood. It also provides battery voltages of each battery.

Here is a hand drawn digram since I dont have software for a digital version

 

[Fpolanco]

Hey! This is why I love this forum. Helping each other out. To confirm, the new video from Genesis is accurate. I made the mistake of getting too excited even though I watched the video probably 10 times.

To confirm

• The factory auxiliary battery connector will need to be bolted to the factory MAIN battery connector
• the factory auxiliary negative battery connector will need to be taped and protected and stowed away. It will fit nicely underneath the plastic base of the distribution panel.

check out my full writeup here
https://www.jeepgladiatorforum.com/...wn-2022-jtr-journal.66430/page-2#post-1097352




I have heard of people experiencing this but I have not. I have not checked the connections either though. But after fixing my mistake, the warning is now gone. Time will tell if it returns.

Thread saved for later reading!! Thank you so much!!

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