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New to lift kits - Need help with choosing the right one

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So in order...

Install lift & track bar and then head to alignment or

install lift & track bar, install wheels and tires(different day), and then alignment
I would go lift + track bar, then alignment (if you don't have your new tires & wheels already).

If you do have them, I would go:

lift, track bar, tires & wheels, then alignment....Then add steering stabilizer at home later if you know how to. If not, have them install it when they put on your lift.

I did mine in this order...

Lift (all suspension components), computerized 4-wheel alignment. Then tires & wheels a few weeks later (shipping), then steering stabilizer.

And once I get the time...

Remove 2.5" spacer lift, and install Evo 2.5" Enforcer Stage 2 Plus lift which includes F&R track bars, adj. LCA's, and then perform another 4-wheel alignment after all the geometry has been properly readjusted and set thanks to the adjustability of a REAL suspension lift.
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kelkolb

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So in order...

Install lift & track bar and then head to alignment or

install lift & track bar, install wheels and tires(different day), and then alignment
If the tires and wheels aren't too far behind the lift then I'd just wait. I drove mine for a few days before the tires and alignment.
 
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I would go lift + track bar, then alignment (if you don't have your new tires & wheels already).

If you do have them, I would go:

lift, track bar, tires & wheels, then alignment....Then add steering stabilizer at home later if you know how to. If not, have them install it when they put on your lift.

I did mine in this order...

Lift (all suspension components), computerized 4-wheel alignment. Then tires & wheels a few weeks later (shipping), then steering stabilizer.

And once I get the time...

Remove 2.5" spacer lift, and install Evo 2.5" Enforcer Stage 2 Plus lift which includes F&R track bars, adj. LCA's, and then perform another 4-wheel alignment after all the geometry has been properly readjusted and set thanks to the adjustability of a REAL suspension lift.

Okay so after a day of thought, I think in the end I would rather go from a 2" to 3.5" lift and do 37s instead of 35s. But what is the gas mileage like at this point. Is it significantly worse?

Reason.. I read a few threads about the 2" Mopar and after the lift. the rear is slightly higher than the front. I want it to look more equal and not slanted.

Fabtech is actually 5 Min from my house and wanted to see if their 3" Sport Kit with Dirt Logic Shocks are any good. I know I would still need to pick up a track bar from somewhere else.

I saw in another thread that you said you liked how Fabtechs were so I wanted to get more information from you.

All in all, my end goal is not to do any crazy rock crawling but just do more of an overland build.
 
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Okay so after a day of thought, I think in the end I would rather go from a 2" to 3.5" lift and do 37s instead of 35s. But what is the gas mileage like at this point. Is it significantly worse?

Reason.. I read a few threads about the 2" Mopar and after the lift. the rear is slightly higher than the front. I want it to look more equal and not slanted.

Fabtech is actually 5 Min from my house and wanted to see if their 3" Sport Kit with Dirt Logic Shocks are any good. I know I would still need to pick up a track bar from somewhere else.

I saw in another thread that you said you liked how Fabtechs were so I wanted to get more information from you.

All in all, my end goal is not to do any crazy rock crawling but just do more of an overland build.
Evo, Clayton, Fabtech, all good companies. If Fabtech is that close to your location, I'd swing by and see what they can do for you. They have always made quality products. I've ran Fabtech lifts since 2005, and still running the same Fabtech 6" lift on my 2007.5 Cummins that I put on in Jan 2008. Not the original shocks, but everything else is. Never once had any issues, and I am NOT gentle on my vehicles.

That being said, I would stay AWAY from their basic cheap white budget shocks. I've snatched the rods out of both front shocks on my Cummins offroading, and never knew it happened until later, if that tells you how soft the bodies on them are... I would definitely spend the money on their Dirt Logic shocks, or maybe some Fox or Kings.
 

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Okay so after a day of thought, I think in the end I would rather go from a 2" to 3.5" lift and do 37s instead of 35s. But what is the gas mileage like at this point. Is it significantly worse?

Reason.. I read a few threads about the 2" Mopar and after the lift. the rear is slightly higher than the front. I want it to look more equal and not slanted.

Fabtech is actually 5 Min from my house and wanted to see if their 3" Sport Kit with Dirt Logic Shocks are any good. I know I would still need to pick up a track bar from somewhere else.

I saw in another thread that you said you liked how Fabtechs were so I wanted to get more information from you.

All in all, my end goal is not to do any crazy rock crawling but just do more of an overland build.
My dad used to build Jeeps for a living until the ‘08 recession. He never liked Fabtech at all but maybe they’re better now.

FWIW, you’ll get more than 2” out of the Mopar lift. I got 2.5” out of mine. You can level out a little bit of the rake with just a $20 set of front coil spacers. Then you’ll have no problem fitting 37’s. Don’t remove all of the rake though. Trucks need to have some for when you inevitably put something in the bed.
 

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I would recommend mopar lift. I daily drive my rubicon gladiator on the mopar lift and it rides very nice.
I have a JTR as well and was thinking of the Mopar lift kit, are you running bigger tires as well and if so what size and brand. I was hoping to run 35's and still get full flex or possibly going to 37's. If I can't get full flex then going bigger isn't better.
 

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I have a JTR as well and was thinking of the Mopar lift kit, are you running bigger tires as well and if so what size and brand. I was hoping to run 35's and still get full flex or possibly going to 37's. If I can't get full flex then going bigger isn't better.
You’ll 100% want 37’s on a JTR with the Mopar lift. 35’s will look small. It’s designed for 37’s on a JTR also. Can’t imagine you’ll have any rubbing issues with the right wheel offset.
 
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Asking for opinions??? If I have the Mopar lift installed should a I also install a new track bar as well, do you think it is needed?
 

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Asking for opinions??? If I have the Mopar lift installed should a I also install a new track bar as well, do you think it is needed?
I’m running the Mopar lift and am getting ready to do a front trackbar. It’s a good idea. Rear isn’t really needed.
 
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I’m running the Mopar lift and am getting ready to do a front trackbar. It’s a good idea. Rear isn’t really needed.
Awesome, thanks, I'm trying to get different opinions on this and see what the majority of people or doing. I appreciate your help.
 

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kelkolb

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Awesome, thanks, I'm trying to get different opinions on this and see what the majority of people or doing. I appreciate your help.
FWIW, I’ve been running it with the stock trackbars for a year with no problems. I just want everything in check and also want to slowly replace everything with adjustable components.
 
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FWIW, I’ve been running it with the stock trackbars for a year with no problems. I just want everything in check and also want to slowly replace everything with adjustable components.
Actually, that's good information. That's the answer to my question. I now know that it's not a must have but more of a preventative type thing in the near future and I don't have to do it all at once.
 
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Asking for opinions??? If I have the Mopar lift installed should a I also install a new track bar as well, do you think it is needed?
Anything over 1.5" front or rear, it is recommended to put adjustable track bars.
 
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