New trailer rig, Obi Dweller 13

[Josh00333]

Super cool rig, and amazingly capable per the video. I had no idea you could yank a comfortable camp trailer up something like that.

Ya they have some fun vids, not doing that with my rig!

More overlanding stuff is what I'm after.

Places like this where it's old unimproved roads:

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[Josh00333]

Just picked it up!

 

[Josh00333]

Ok home and initial impressions.

Only a 15 mile drive home, 10 freeway. Tracked fine at 65, got passed by a simi while I was passing a Class A (4 lane), no white knuckle craziness. Trailer 100% empty, no water in it ect, new off the lot.

Ok the keys, OMG seriously there are how many?!?! LOL I'll have to figure something out it's like 10 keys!

Towed really well, got 13 mpg on the way home, again just 15 miles and flat but way better than my normal 8.

My last trailer was a cargo camper toy hauler, it was 6100 with all my camping stuff in it, no water no food, tandem axle. Was heavy, really heavy. I rested on the sumo springs when hooked up to it. I had 1" at least free space with the OBI hooked up.

Storage is good in this trailer, my generator fits in the front bin (sweet smell of propane exhaust for your morning coffee), blocks, tent pegs ect all that goes in the front. Power cables all on the top driver side slide. All the water hoses sewer connections etc in the lower. My food bins I use for plates, etc and coffee pot all fit perfect in the front kitchen spot. I changed up the straps on the refer.

Bout all I got done, wish I could camp this weekend but have to work.

McHitch is cool, neat to hook up, def easier than a ball mount. Do have to get the weight off the pin to unhook.

 

[kevman65]

Is there an attached awning? I watched the "walk through" video on their website and don't recall seeing one.

Of course there are no dealers within 4 hours of me in any direction, so I can't see one up close and personal.

 

[kevman65]

Okay, I see it in your very first pic. Funny the video didn't highlight it and I didn't see it in the list of goods.

 

[Josh00333]

There is an hr long walk through one on youtube that shows everyyyyything.

 

[WILDHOBO]

Ok home and initial impressions.

Only a 15 mile drive home, 10 freeway. Tracked fine at 65, got passed by a simi while I was passing a Class A (4 lane), no white knuckle craziness. Trailer 100% empty, no water in it ect, new off the lot.

Ok the keys, OMG seriously there are how many?!?! LOL I'll have to figure something out it's like 10 keys!

Towed really well, got 13 mpg on the way home, again just 15 miles and flat but way better than my normal 8.

My last trailer was a cargo camper toy hauler, it was 6100 with all my camping stuff in it, no water no food, tandem axle. Was heavy, really heavy. I rested on the sumo springs when hooked up to it. I had 1" at least free space with the OBI hooked up.

Storage is good in this trailer, my generator fits in the front bin (sweet smell of propane exhaust for your morning coffee), blocks, tent pegs ect all that goes in the front. Power cables all on the top driver side slide. All the water hoses sewer connections etc in the lower. My food bins I use for plates, etc and coffee pot all fit perfect in the front kitchen spot. I changed up the straps on the refer.

Bout all I got done, wish I could camp this weekend but have to work.

McHitch is cool, neat to hook up, def easier than a ball mount. Do have to get the weight off the pin to unhook.

Looks beautiful. My personal opinion is that if you’ve only got an inch between your bump stops and pucks with it empty, that you need to swap your springs out for heavier duty springs. You can easily travel 3” just with normal highway road heaves. You shouldn’t be in your bump stops that often. Again, in my opinion. I have specific rear springs, for the sole reason that I want enough travel when I tow. To never go below level.

 

[Josh00333]

Looks beautiful. My personal opinion is that if you’ve only got an inch between your bump stops and pucks with it empty, that you need to swap your springs out for heavier duty springs. You can easily travel 3” just with normal highway road heaves. You shouldn’t be in your bump stops that often. Again, in my opinion. I have specific rear springs, for the sole reason that I want enough travel when I tow. To never go below level.

sorry completely wrong

sumo springs are longer than factory and designed to engage the truck early.

 

[WILDHOBO]

sorry completely wrong

sumo springs are longer than factory and designed to engage the truck early.

And yet. I have sumo springs in the rear. I have inches of space. They’re designed to soften bump stop impact, but they are not designed to be that close all the time. Especially when towing.

 

[Josh00333]

Look like you’re missing your bump stop extensions?

and yes sumo springs are designed to engage early, that’s the entire point of them.

look at my pic my extensions are there. There is free space as well, look at the pic above I even have rake as the rear is not near loaded.

the whole point of that post was comparing to my previous set up where I was loaded down, now it’s not nearly so.

if in your set up with out your bump stops, you’re engaging I would agree you’ll be ass low nose high.

 

[WILDHOBO]

Look like you’re missing your bump stop extensions?

and yes sumo springs are designed to engage early, that’s the entire point of them.

look at my pic my extensions are there. There is free space as well, look at the pic above I even have rake as the rear is not near loaded.

the whole point of that post was comparing to my previous set up where I was loaded down, now it’s not nearly so.

if in your set up with out your bump stops, you’re engaging I would agree you’ll be ass low nose high.

Those three sided steel blocks are the bump stop pucks. I get into the sumos when off road and articulating, but almost never when on road. If I only had an inch between the sumo and stop, when not moving and loaded, I’d not be happy with it at all.

Btw, I love your trailer, and I’m really glad the tongue weight is a little less, but I still think you’re under sprung in the rear for that weight. I absolutely understand the point of sumo springs. I’ve had them for 48k miles. But they shouldn’t be hit that often or that constantly. Will it be smoother than with regular stops, and will they survive? Sure. But that doesn’t make it the ideal setup.

Mine is never sagging by the way. With a fully loaded bed and a trailer hooked up, it’s still above level in the rear, which leaves me room for suspension travel on the interstate and off road.

 

[Josh00333]

Sorry wild 100% disagree with you.

Sumosprings literally are designed to carry weight when towing, it’s the entire point of them. What they are made rated marketed and sold to do.

I’m not engaging them with this set up. I have AEV rear springs designed to carry pay load well over factory.

the droop adding 500 pounds of tuonge weight is apx 1” (I didn’t measure it). It’s set up perfectly. I’ve got rake and more capacity than prior.

Those three sided steel blocks are the bump stop pucks. I get into the sumos when off road and articulating, but almost never when I road. If I only had an inch between the sumo and stop, when not moving and loaded, I’d not be happy with it at all.

Btw, I love your trailer, and I’m really glad the tongue weight is a little less, but I still think you’re under sprung in the rear for that weight. I absolutely understand the point of sumo springs. I’ve had them for 48k miles. But they shouldn’t be hit that often or that constantly. Will it be smoother than with regular stops, and will they survive? Sure. But that doesn’t make it the ideal setup.

Mine is never sagging by the way. With a fully loaded bed and a trailer hooked up, it’s still above level in the rear, which leaves me room for suspension travel on the interstate and off road.

 

[Josh00333]

Apx an inch of drop with the load, pic angle isnt quite level on the second shot

Here is no load;

vs 500lbs hitch loaded

 

[WILDHOBO]

Apx an inch of drop with the load, pic angle isnt quite level on the second shot

Here is no load;

vs 500lbs hitch loaded

I know you think you’re spot on, and I know that’s how they’re marketed, but I’m just trying to help you. How an aftermarket product is marketed, doesn’t make it “what you should do” for the overall protection of your Jeep and your trailer. They are absolutely game changers when it comes to softening impact when you do get into the bump stops. But riding on them all the time is still way too much stress on your suspension. If you’re only an inch away at rest on the driveway, you’re on them literally constantly when you’re driving on the highway. Here’s a screenshot from their site telling you not to compress them past 65%, or you will wreck them. With that amount of weight, and that little clearance, you’re likely doing that frequently. You’ll also notice they’re designed for factory suspension. If you install them on a factory JT, it’s wildly different than with your aev springs. Are your springs HD? There’s a huge difference between normal duty lift springs and HD. Ad an example, my previously removed 3” lift front springs were only getting me 2” with a heavy bumper and winch. With my Teraflex HD 3.5” springs, I gained 2 full inches past the previous measurement. Prior to that, guess what, I was in the bump stops WAY TOO OFTEN. Now it’s occasional, as it should be. My rear springs, specifically because I load up and tow, are lift springs for a ram 1500. They’re still nice and soft for ride quality, but they handle the weight. Soft bump stops like sumo or timbren, and air bags, are a band aid when the springs aren’t up to the task. The right way to handle more weight is to increase the strength of the springs.

I don’t automatically know this. I learned from people more experienced than me. People on this forum, several of those people are now life long friends that I camp and wheel with. When I was into my bump stops too often in the front because my springs were no longer appropriate for the weight I added with bumper customization and a larger winch than previously, one of those friends told me flat out. “You need different springs”. They could not have been more right. And now I pass that onto you. You didn’t ask for my advice, but you posted a 1” gap at rest on a public forum. If I came off as criticizing you, that wasn’t the intention and I’m sorry. I spoke up to pay it forward and help you resolve an issue you didn’t think you had. At least be open to the possibility that others have experience in this area before you go on the offensive. Springs are cheap in comparison to your new trailer. I’d highly recommend calling teraflex and asking them about their Outback springs. They’re amazing and truly do hold the weight without being harsh. Here’s a link to them in 3.5” for gladiator rear.

https://teraflex.com/jt-3-5-lift-outback-coil-spring-pair-rear.html

 

[Josh00333]

Appreciate ya looking out

I know you think you’re spot on, and I know that’s how they’re marketed, but I’m just trying to help you. How an aftermarket product is marketed, doesn’t make it “what you should do” for the overall protection of your Jeep and your trailer. They are absolutely game changers when it comes to softening impact when you do get into the bump stops. But riding on them all the time is still way too much stress on your suspension. If you’re only an inch away at rest on the driveway, you’re on them literally constantly when you’re driving on the highway. Here’s a screenshot from their site telling you not to compress them past 65%, or you will wreck them. With that amount of weight, and that little clearance, you’re likely doing that frequently. You’ll also notice they’re designed for factory suspension. If you install them on a factory JT, it’s wildly different than with your aev springs. Are your springs HD? There’s a huge difference between normal duty lift springs and HD. Ad an example, my previously removed 3” lift front springs were only getting me 2” with a heavy bumper and winch. With my Teraflex HD 3.5” springs, I gained 2 full inches past the previous measurement. Prior to that, guess what, I was in the bump stops WAY TOO OFTEN. Now it’s occasional, as it should be. My rear springs, specifically because I load up and tow, are lift springs for a ram 1500. They’re still nice and soft for ride quality, but they handle the weight. Soft bump stops like sumo or timbren, and air bags, are a band aid when the springs aren’t up to the task. The right way to handle more weight is to increase the strength of the springs.

I don’t automatically know this. I learned from people more experienced than me. People on this forum, several of those people are now life long friends that I camp and wheel with. When I was into my bump stops too often in the front because my springs were no longer appropriate for the weight I added with bumper customization and a larger winch than previously, one of those friends told me flat out. “You need different springs”. They could not have been more right. And now I pass that onto you. You didn’t ask for my advice, but you posted a 1” gap at rest on a public forum. If I came off as criticizing you, that wasn’t the intention and I’m sorry. I spoke up to pay it forward and help you resolve an issue you didn’t think you had. At least be open to the possibility that others have experience in this area before you go on the offensive. Springs are cheap in comparison to your new trailer. I’d highly recommend calling teraflex and asking them about their Outback springs. They’re amazing and truly do hold the weight without being harsh. Here’s a link to them in 3.5” for gladiator rear.

https://teraflex.com/jt-3-5-lift-outback-coil-spring-pair-rear.html

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