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Oil leak and oil pressure spike

ShadowsPapa

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Dealer said they drove it for about 15 minutes, put it back on the lift and the oil leak had stopped. They are thinking that either someone has spilt oil (which didn’t happen) or it was possibly over filled at last oil change (which I used 5 qts of Pennzoil). Can an oil leak “magically stop” when you take it to the dealership?
Uh these will handle 6 quarts without "leaking"........not that it's good, but it doesn't hurt anything either - it won't leak from 1 extra quart. If it did, then any oil slung around in the engine would cause a leak....

It's more likely that it's a slow leak or happens at higher speeds or oil pressures and 15 minutes wasn't enough or they didn't kick into it to get it over the 30 psi.
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Uh these will handle 6 quarts without "leaking"........not that it's good, but it doesn't hurt anything either - it won't leak from 1 extra quart. If it did, then any oil slung around in the engine would cause a leak....

It's more likely that it's a slow leak or happens at higher speeds or oil pressures and 15 minutes wasn't enough or they didn't kick into it to get it over the 30 psi.
Do you think that’s worth persuing? I would think the OP would probably have to do some of the diagnostic work themselves.
 

foo.c

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Dealer said they drove it for about 15 minutes, put it back on the lift and the oil leak had stopped. They are thinking that either someone has spilt oil (which didn’t happen) or it was possibly over filled at last oil change (which I used 5 qts of Pennzoil). Can an oil leak “magically stop” when you take it to the dealership?
It's dirty oil. That's not from spillage. It sounds like they don't want to fix it.
 

Hootbro

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The oil cooler/filter housing that sits below the intake manifolds are a common leak point and have been know to crack even with moderate use and leak. They fill the top of the engine intake galley and then spill over causing leaks on the back of the engine. Many times they are mistaken for a rear main leak. To inspect properly, you have to take the upper intake manifold off and look past the lower intake manifold that sits on top of the oil cooler/filter housing assembly. That is usually a warranty repair.
 
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jac04

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I would suspect the oil cooler/filter housing as well. If you look down into the "V" right next to where the oil filter cartridge is located, you may be able to see oil pooling. Sometimes the oil pooling is located a little further back and tough to see. Either way, oil will be leaking down the back of the engine and that is the indication that it is NOT a rear main seal leak.

These housings are a common leak point on the JKs, usually attributed to cracking, but I believe that the real source of leaks is the o-ring seals. When I replaced this housing on my JK at 24k miles, the bolts were barely hand tight.
 

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ShadowsPapa

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Do you think that’s worth persuing? I would think the OP would probably have to do some of the diagnostic work themselves.
If it was me, I'd do what I could to try to track it down.
Oil leaks are tricky because the oil will get blown around by the fans, the wind from the road, whatever. The air under the hood isn't static (it had better not be) so any leak will get pulled, pushed, and so on.
I'd wash it up real good - maybe use a florescent leak detection dye.
Then I'd take SHORT drives after warming it up.
Warm it up good - check for leaks, drive it a short distance and back, check again, drive it longer, maybe faster and check again, etc.
Don't right away jump in and drive it away - if it leaks it will get blown around and you'll never track down the source.
(Looking at the pics again, I suspect the oil is coming from up higher. Oil unless blown around by strong forces, won't typically move UP - so in most cases the leak is at least as high as the highest point you see oil. No pan gasket leak would do what that one has done, just as an example - there's oil too high)

Work in stages - try to find the leak just sitting running, and then progress to longer and longer drives, and progress to higher speeds.
If it's leaking only under high pressure - then you need to get into the higher RPMs as these run 30 psi at lower RPM and the pressure is boosted above a certain RPM.
If it's a valve cover, pan, etc. - then oil pressure won't matter - or shouldn't matter.

But taking it to a dealership - they seem to limit their test drives these days. They won't spend a lot of time doing that because face it - it might take them an hour of driving to make it leak.

With a dye, though, it should be easier to detect it earlier, too.
 
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Dealer said it stopped leaking. I had turned off the AC before taking it up there. They pressure washed the under side and couldn’t get it to leak. I picked it up from dealership and will drive for a day with the AC off. Then see if the leak comes back when the AC is on. Also, my lower ball joint nuts were only being held on by Carter pin. 6000 miles on her!!! Good times!!!
 
 







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