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jhale1800

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Glad to see @WXman still has his Jeep. I ran across this video discussing the same topic.

 

Gvsukids

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jhale1800

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It's his 2020 Grand Cherokee.
Oh, if I would have looked closer I probably would have caught that... I just had gemini summarize the video for me and read the takeaways.
 

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I don't hear the "valve train ticking" sound on the video, but if some guy on yootube states "improper oil specification", then I need to change oil viscosity immediately.
 

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OVERLORD

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Funny, a number of folks who have Kawasaki ZRXs, have Gladiators.

There's quite a discussion going on, on the ZRXOA Forum on this very subject.

I'm sold.

Seeing how manufacturers are doing anything to avoid fines of CAFE standards, makes sense.

Next oil change, going to the 5W-30.

As I'll tell all, you run whatever you want.

However, you want.

 

Gvsukids

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Oh, if I would have looked closer I probably would have caught that... I just had gemini summarize the video for me and read the takeaways.
I looked up an older video to find out.
 

ShadowsPapa

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So heeeeerree we go AGAIN, and AGAIN.
Yes, posted several times, in multiple threads, just in the last week or so.

Funny, a number of folks who have Kawasaki ZRXs, have Gladiators.

There's quite a discussion going on, on the ZRXOA Forum on this very subject.

I'm sold.

Seeing how manufacturers are doing anything to avoid fines of CAFE standards, makes sense.

Next oil change, going to the 5W-30.

As I'll tell all, you run whatever you want.

However, you want.

After all of the discussion already here?
And how it's been shown to NOT be the problem?

Glad to see @WXman still has his Jeep. I ran across this video discussing the same topic.

That's one of the worst clickbait video shots out there even suggesting a link between viscosity and the GM fuck-up. GM used it like your grandfather used sawdust to make is old 3 speed transmission quieter..
It was a bandaid.
There's no lessons learned - other than GM should have done their crankshafts correctly.
Did you know that GM says if the engine blows and is replaced - GO BACK TO THE ORIGINAL oil recommendations?
That hack with "thicker oil" is to cover for their mistakes, but Jeep people will try to make a connection to anything, believing YT videos and so on.

FACT - GM only says up the oil on the engines impacted
GM says stick with the original oil for prior builds
GM says stick with the original oil for the later builds
GM says if the engine is repaired or replaced - GO BACK to the original oil..

In other words - it's a bandaid, STP to get rid of GM's risk is about it.

Too bad this can't be moved into the threads from the past week showing these exact videos and the hundreds of posts already.

BTW - that 0w20 isn't 'just for CAFE" - it's also for the VVL and VVT......... it says so right in the tech training documents.

Run what you want if it makes you feel better. Run EVOO if it feels good.
Won't matter.

IF you live in a cooler climate, the 5W bit may cause you MORE cam issues......... it's the COLD or Winter rating. Upping that means less oil, slower flow, on a cold start. I'd never up the front number on these.
 

kevman65

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Funny, a number of folks who have Kawasaki ZRXs, have Gladiators.

There's quite a discussion going on, on the ZRXOA Forum on this very subject.

I'm sold.

Seeing how manufacturers are doing anything to avoid fines of CAFE standards, makes sense.

Next oil change, going to the 5W-30.

As I'll tell all, you run whatever you want.

However, you want.

Been running 5W-30 since first oil change, it hasn't blown up yet.

I ran Shell Rotella Synthetic in my ZRX and they said it would blow up over there....
 

ShadowsPapa

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Been running 5W-30 since first oil change, it hasn't blown up yet.

I ran Shell Rotella Synthetic in my ZRX and they said it would blow up over there....
LOL - blow up? No.
Ideal? No.
Will it wear out sooner? too many variables. No one can say. Does it cause any real issues? Well, FCA says it's needed for the VVL/VVT devices.........

Rotella - isn't one of them rated for diesel OR gas engines?

But I won't run anything above a 0W in our climate. I want oil to the top end and onto the followers fast when the temps hit 40 and below. I want the lash adjusters filled ASAP.

People don't "get" the front number, the W number, and believe it matters on a warmed up engine. It matters on the morning start - you aren't doing anything at all for it while driving down the road.

Man, this is an exact mirror of the lengthy other threads already loaded with the videos - some of those videos posted 2 or 3 times in the same thread because no one goes back a page or two.
 

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kevman65

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LOL - blow up? No.
Ideal? No.
Will it wear out sooner? too many variables. No one can say. Does it cause any real issues? Well, FCA says it's needed for the VVL/VVT devices.........

Rotella - isn't one of them rated for diesel OR gas engines?

But I won't run anything above a 0W in our climate. I want oil to the top end and onto the followers fast when the temps hit 40 and below. I want the lash adjusters filled ASAP.

People don't "get" the front number, the W number, and believe it matters on a warmed up engine. It matters on the morning start - you aren't doing anything at all for it while driving down the road.

Man, this is an exact mirror of the lengthy other threads already loaded with the videos - some of those videos posted 2 or 3 times in the same thread because no one goes back a page or two.
It boils down to, you do you, I'll do me.

I'm not afraid to "go against the grain".

Everyone knows they run the thinnest oil possible to get all their Federally mandated numbers.

Your temps in the winter aren't what most everyone else gets. We average 11 days in the winter below 0, the rest of winter is around the 32 mark.

You can throw all the FCA specs out you want, when you get to actually talk to one of the engineers it's a slightly different story. The liability side of the company says this specific oil only, gives them another out if they can prove you didn't follow recommendations. The mechanical side of the company says there is a wide range that can be used without damage.
 

ShadowsPapa

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Your temps in the winter aren't what most everyone else gets. We average 11 days in the winter below 0, the rest of winter is around the 32 mark.
Yup - not that far from here.
And that's why I stick with the 0W
As said multiple times in the other threads - that one only counts in the cold - when you want oil to flow fast and shoot out to the cam lobes easily. Thicker on cold starts is an issue.
The 30 vs 20 - hardly any real difference, they actually overlap a bit.

From a master tech training document -
Jeep Gladiator Posted already? 1748472609744-fo


Of course it's a "do whatever you want" thing.
If it makes you feel better, fine.
But there's really no logic to it other than it doesn't blow up and it feels better knowing it's thumbing the nose at "those government regs" while ignoring the fact that the automaker engineers sit with oil company chemists and experts and come up with the oil formulations.
They work together. Oils are formulated to meet the automakers needs, the automakers tell the oil makers what is required.
 

Charles 236

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I thought the oil viscosity causes engine failure issues were settled a couple of dozen oil threads back. Got to love the internet influencers, they don't seem to have a real job, just muddying the waters of truth.
 

Stan H

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Thicker just isn't gonna lubricate as well in a tight tolerance engine period. IF thick oil was the only way to go . Transfer cases would use 80W-90 weight & the rearend would take pressure grease. .
@Charles 236 @ShadowsPapa , that Amsoil video I posted I thought was the definitive on this issue .. guess not.
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