Rattle from engine when accelerating (sounds like keys)

[SelfmodJT]

Open the air box, see what it sounds like then.

A backfire with the sound deadening these have in the intake would be pretty muffled, but it's doubtful that's happening.
Even my Javelins if I make them backfire with the air cleaner on would be pretty muffled. Not a loud POP at all, but take the air cleaner off and it was an unmuffled POP.
We used to make engines backfire on purpose to blow things out back in the 70s and with the air cleaner on (for safety) it wasn't all that loud.

I agree - use some software - AlfaOBD or jscan or even a free software that will give O2 sensor information might help.

I've never romped mine in neutral (it's an auto) but if I romp it hard in gear, it BOGS - not a backfire, but like it's not getting any fuel until it finally catches up. You don't want to have to nail it to get away from a tight situation - you'll never make it.

So what will it sound like if I open the airbox?

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[iGlad]

I got the truck back and here is the notes from the dealer:

They were able to fix the engine ticking noise and its driving great.. BUT I was able to get that damn rattle noise to trigger again. (Low gear & low speed) Its not as easy to make it happen though and Its not happening while driving normal. for now at least..

To be continued!

 

[SelfmodJT]

I got the truck back and here is the notes from the dealer:

They were able to fix the engine ticking noise and its driving great.. BUT I was able to get that damn rattle noise to trigger again. (Low gear & low speed) Its not as easy to make it happen though and Its not happening while driving normal. for now at least..

To be continued!

Just drive it, trade it in or sell it before the 60k warranty ends or get an extended warranty. Drive it, and drive it hard since these engine were made to operate in the mid to high rpm ranges. Most likely the noise will get worse if there is an issue with the engine within the warranty period. I realized you'll never be able to enjoy the jeep if you're constantly worried about it. Run it on 87, keep oil change records and drive. It could be a lot worse like the misfire issue where you cant even drive it, I'll take the detonation over that issue any day.

 

[flipmode]

@SelfmodJT I feel the same way- I worry about this GD rattle way to much and its encroaching on how much in enjoy it. I am considering doing a 392 swap when my warranty runs out just because life is short yaknow- and I really like this damn thing.

Anyway, I had my leaking axle replaced today and while picking it up I asked a tech to ride along. I was able to re-create the rattle for him and they acknowledged that it was happening. They <said> they would try and recreate it on another gladiator with a close MDH and create a 'star' case. Not sure what that means, but I did get them to acknowledge it. I don't have any paperwork that says it rattles, but I have 2 reports that say I've asked them to look into it. Just not sure what that's worth when my camshafts shoot through the hood after 60k.

 

[SelfmodJT]

@SelfmodJT I feel the same way- I worry about this GD rattle way to much and its encroaching on how much in enjoy it. I am considering doing a 392 swap when my warranty runs out just because life is short yaknow- and I really like this damn thing.

Anyway, I had my leaking axle replaced today and while picking it up I asked a tech to ride along. I was able to re-create the rattle for him and they acknowledged that it was happening. They <said> they would try and recreate it on another gladiator with a close MDH and create a 'star' case. Not sure what that means, but I did get them to acknowledge it. I don't have any paperwork that says it rattles, but I have 2 reports that say I've asked them to look into it. Just not sure what that's worth when my camshafts shoot through the hood after 60k.

After 60k, theyll def admit theres a problem lol. Just sayin. Just drive, it should def get worse with more miles where theyll have to address it.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

I towed with mine today - got out a couple of times with it running to check my rigging, and when parking the trailer I walked around the front and even with the fans running the engine sounded almost like a diesel...... tick tick tick tick tick. Only when HOT though. Never noticed it before.
But NO rattle or ping. Even with the thing in a higher gear on a hill with almost 5,000 pounds of car hauler and car in tow - no pinging. It did like to wind up and stay in the 3,000 RPM range a lot, even stayed in 4,000 RPM several times. Frequented 2500 RPM. I was happy with that.

 

[foo.c]

Mine rattles a bit on start after sitting over night, but goes away in 5-10 seconds.

 

[SelfmodJT]

@SelfmodJT I feel the same way- I worry about this GD rattle way to much and its encroaching on how much in enjoy it. I am considering doing a 392 swap when my warranty runs out just because life is short yaknow- and I really like this damn thing.

Anyway, I had my leaking axle replaced today and while picking it up I asked a tech to ride along. I was able to re-create the rattle for him and they acknowledged that it was happening. They <said> they would try and recreate it on another gladiator with a close MDH and create a 'star' case. Not sure what that means, but I did get them to acknowledge it. I don't have any paperwork that says it rattles, but I have 2 reports that say I've asked them to look into it. Just not sure what that's worth when my camshafts shoot through the hood after 60k.

Besides, a lot can happen in 4 years. More problems will manifest itself if they really are design and mechanical issues. Just be happy atleast you dont have misfires and mutiple CEL and cant drive it without being able to do anything about it.

 

[flipmode]

Update on mine:

Dealer just called and said there was a star case regarding the 'transfer case cable rattling' and that might be the cause of this. <insert eyeroll here>. Does anyone have star case numbers for their gladiators that more directly address this problem that you would share and I can direct the techs to?

Thanks!

 

[casualthursday]

@flipmode I was told they were going to open a star case when i dropped mine off the first time. zero mention of it when i picked it up the second time.

A quick update for the group: I switched to 89 a few tanks ago and the rattling has cleared just a little bit. HOWEVER, on a very hot and humid day it is still there.....

 

[Higher_Ground]

Heard it again today after switching to 89 at the pump. I am torn between going with 87 and ignoring it or going with 93 and hoping I don't hear it.

It was very brief but now my ears are tuned to hear it no matter how long it lasts.

 

[flipmode]

Update on mine:

Dealer just called and said there was a star case regarding the 'transfer case cable rattling' and that might be the cause of this. <insert eyeroll here>. Does anyone have star case numbers for their gladiators that more directly address this problem that you would share and I can direct the techs to?

Thanks!

While the dealer was inspecting my transfer case cables, they acknowledged that it is spark knock, and explained on the invoice that I should run 91 (it had 91 in it while they had the jeep today). I spoke to the tech foreman, and he seemed quite unbothered by this and explained that all these engines rattle, and he can 'get any of them to do it, even the hemi engines (he) works on'.

I provided an anecdote that I ran 92-ethanol-free in it this passed weekend and it helped reduce the loudness of the knock but didn't get rid of it- again unbothered. Also, that the knock sensors wont trigger a code unless the knock is so bad that the cam phasers cannot adjust to alleviate it- and that they take longer to adjust than I might think.

All indication is that this is normal- and I shouldn't be so worried, so I'm gonna try that for a while I think, then drop a 392 in it.

 

[NachoRuby]

What does rev match have to do with wide open throttle? Im not trying to go 90 everytime on the highway, i just never noticed how weak it was near the top speed.

This is an old post, but if I need quick acceleration in the JT on the highway, I drop to 3rd, which on my Rubicon would end at 103 if the jeep would go that fast before it got to the governor. Yours will be even higher than that. 6th for cruising over 65, on flat land. 5th if I need to go up and down slight hills in traffic, 4th for up a steep mountain or normal passing, 3rd to drop the hammer (relatively speaking. It's still a 5000 lb slightly underpowered pickup on mud tires) or to go up the steepest of grades. The gears are just super long on these, and peak torque and hp are so high up.

 

[tumbes2000]

I will keep this thread updated. If you havent tried a wide open throttle, try it a few times. What do you have to lose? I remember the Rx 8 with a rotary engine you had to do wide open throttles regularly to clean out the carbon or the engine would not run right.

I had an Rx8 and would do one redline per day plus premix. Never had issues. But I am having this same rattling on my gladiator. Just started about a month ago at around 17000 miles. Really hoping there is a solution.

 

[Blade1668]

I only WISH my shift points would change. They are CRAP. These things shift like my grandmother's Rambler. Too early, way too conservative, keeping the RPM waaay down. Mine wants 8th gear no matter what, stays there for a few seconds, then I see it's in 6th or even 5th just to keep speed limit on a hill.
I like the transmission well enough, but the constant need for it to be in 8th for a few seconds before shifting down again just really stinks.

I'm guessing the transmission is "tuned" for different parameters on the Max-Tow mine holds 4 or 5 up to and past 45 mph. Holding and runs up past 3000 before shifts. I'd like to see if anyone else with a Max-Tow has noticed the same.

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