RCI Offroad Gladiator Bedrack

[coreoski]

I did do the extra brace and did use the long slotted holes and placed them equidistant from the center. Once everything is bolted it is very stiff (14mm carriage bolts on the rack, 13mm and 11mm for the bike accessories). No racking, flexing, creaking, or anything when testing by sitting and standing on it (I'm 6'4", 235lb). You have a lot of options to pick when placing the supports and side panels, which could adjust to your personal needs for how you mount stuff on it. I have two front tire mounts I haven't put on yet because I'm not sure where I want them (near the tailgate for access but blocking other stuff in the bed, or near the cab so stuff is accessible but harder to get to the wheels). You can see I have it mounted and I didn't take off the soft tonneau, just the locks near the tailgate.

I have one, what I expect to be minor nitpick. The adapters for the trail rail system are a plate with a threaded bolt (with no head on the bolt) welded into a hole in the plate. As the back side of the plate is smooth, there isn't much there for the weld to grab to. It may have been my fault, but when the 200lb gorilla started wrenching I pulled one of the posts out of the plate (maybe it was a weak weld too as I only got one thread into the nylon). My neighbor has a welder and he fixed it in 3 seconds. The reason why I tried to tighten it as much as I did was that the threads had barely gotten to the nylon lock portion of the nut and i was expecting the threads to pop through a bit more. I don't know that it is necessary to change how the threaded bolt is welded to the plate, but maybe making it a little longer so one can have some confidence that the nylon portion is actually locking on the treads. I just snugged them to where the plate and washer don't move and nothing further. I'll probably just toss some Locktite on them since I don't plan on taking the adapter plates off.

One should really make sure to set the width of the rack to be well adjusted for the bed (it can fit a variety of bed widths). Although loading will present some "spread" to the rack as the support arms are angled, if there is any gap when you have a few hundred pounds on the rack it will try and move and put a lot of force on the trail rail adapter plates (those posts aren't designed for that kind of load). If it is a snug, no gap fit with no loading, you'll benefit from the bedsides being pressed by the feet of the rack once loaded and then I'd only imagine a catastrophic event would cause a problem. I spent a lot of time making sure things were square, a snug fit, and so forth. It feels really darn strong.

Awesome details and thanks for the extra photos! I'm sold.

I will have to spring for the non-trail rail adapter set but given what you've described so far I'm really not worried.

Thanks again!!

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[cgm]

it looks like your tonneau cover is still on... will it work with this rack?

I am waiting to find a compatible "ladder rack" and tonneau cover combo. then i will sell my tacoma for a gladiator!

 

[Pion]

it looks like your tonneau cover is still on... will it work with this rack?

I am waiting to find a compatible "ladder rack" and tonneau cover combo. then i will sell my tacoma for a gladiator!

It won't roll out, at the moment it just saves me from having to undo the hardware that connects it to the cab-end of the bed. It makes putting the rack on a simpler process since I only have to remove the tonneau locks on the tailgate-end.

 

[cgm]

It won't roll out, at the moment it just saves me from having to undo the hardware that connects it to the cab-end of the bed. It makes putting the rack on a simpler process since I only have to remove the tonneau locks on the tailgate-end.

that is what i figured. the rack looks awesome, i just wish there was a way to add a tonneau. I am used to having a camper shell with yakima racks on both the shell and the cab, I will need the same adjustability on a gladiator for long stuff on the roof/rack (ex. canoes, kayaks, surfboards, lumber, etc.).

something has to come out sooner or later. My buddy has this setup on his tundra and it is sweet

 

[Slapping_Rabbits]

That is awesome! I like the side bike mounts! how hard would it be to enclose it with something? I'm thinking a waterproof canvas cover i can tie in on the inside of the rack maybe? Just something to keep the water out of the bed. It wouldn't even need to go all the way down. this is a pretty great rack!

 

[Pion]

That is awesome! I like the side bike mounts! how hard would it be to enclose it with something? I'm thinking a waterproof canvas cover i can tie in on the inside of the rack maybe? Just something to keep the water out of the bed. It wouldn't even need to go all the way down. this is a pretty great rack!

The inside is pretty "smooth" in that there is nothing that projects into that space. I don't see why you couldn't mount something from the underside to give it a more contained setup. Heck, you could probably use the existing slots and holes to use as mount points.

 

[RCI Offroad]

Pics look promising! Thanks for sharing.

I take it you did not opt for the additional top brace, correct?

Trying to visualize what that is and my best guess is a dual longitudinal brace setup, but maybe with possible lateral adjustment via long slotted holes?

The extra top brace entirely depends on your use of the rack but it does not necessarily add any strength the the rack. The most common use of the additional top brace is on our longer 56" bed rack models made for long bed / full size trucks that intend to use a roof top tent. Many roof top tents are approximately 48" long and will not reach all the way front to back of the bed rack so by using TWO top braces the tent can then be centered on the rack and will instead bolt to the top braces (normally the tent would bolt to the three main cross-members.

The top braces have a full range of adjustment width wise which allows for any brand of roof top tent to bolt right on.

 

[RCI Offroad]

I did do the extra brace and did use the long slotted holes and placed them equidistant from the center. Once everything is bolted it is very stiff (14mm carriage bolts on the rack, 13mm and 11mm for the bike accessories). No racking, flexing, creaking, or anything when testing by sitting and standing on it (I'm 6'4", 235lb). You have a lot of options to pick when placing the supports and side panels, which could adjust to your personal needs for how you mount stuff on it. I have two front tire mounts I haven't put on yet because I'm not sure where I want them (near the tailgate for access but blocking other stuff in the bed, or near the cab so stuff is accessible but harder to get to the wheels). You can see I have it mounted and I didn't take off the soft tonneau, just the locks near the tailgate.

I have one, what I expect to be minor nitpick. The adapters for the trail rail system are a plate with a threaded bolt (with no head on the bolt) welded into a hole in the plate. As the back side of the plate is smooth, there isn't much there for the weld to grab to. It may have been my fault, but when the 200lb gorilla started wrenching I pulled one of the posts out of the plate (maybe it was a weak weld too as I only got one thread into the nylon). My neighbor has a welder and he fixed it in 3 seconds. The reason why I tried to tighten it as much as I did was that the threads had barely gotten to the nylon lock portion of the nut and i was expecting the threads to pop through a bit more. I don't know that it is necessary to change how the threaded bolt is welded to the plate, but maybe making it a little longer so one can have some confidence that the nylon portion is actually locking on the treads. I just snugged them to where the plate and washer don't move and nothing further. I'll probably just toss some Locktite on them since I don't plan on taking the adapter plates off.

One should really make sure to set the width of the rack to be well adjusted for the bed (it can fit a variety of bed widths). Although loading will present some "spread" to the rack as the support arms are angled, if there is any gap when you have a few hundred pounds on the rack it will try and move and put a lot of force on the trail rail adapter plates (those posts aren't designed for that kind of load). If it is a snug, no gap fit with no loading, you'll benefit from the bedsides being pressed by the feet of the rack once loaded and then I'd only imagine a catastrophic event would cause a problem. I spent a lot of time making sure things were square, a snug fit, and so forth. It feels really darn strong.

Hey thanks for all of the information and feedback! You do have to be careful not to overtighten the adapter plates but give our sales guys a call and we would be happy to send you a couple replacements free of charge! In the mean time I will look into lengthening the studs on future models.

Thanks again for your purchase and enjoy the rack!

970.797.3089

 

[Slapping_Rabbits]

The inside is pretty "smooth" in that there is nothing that projects into that space. I don't see why you couldn't mount something from the underside to give it a more contained setup. Heck, you could probably use the existing slots and holes to use as mount points.

Hey that's a great idea! I'm really liking this compared to the leitner since it's got the bike racks on the side and no drilling, which means I could remove it quickly, and lastly because it looks like it would be easy to enclose it. Sweet. Also that price.

 

[Pion]

Hey that's a great idea! I'm really liking this compared to the leitner since it's got the bike racks on the side and no drilling, which means I could remove it quickly, and lastly because it looks like it would be easy to enclose it. Sweet. Also that price.

I liked the look of the Leitner, but the price for just the rack was double the RCI rack. Adding storage pods, which I've seen comments about water leakage issues, tosses the price well into the $2000+ range. The traction board mounts were $50 more than RCI too. Plus no bike racks - my kids are off to college or going to college soon, so I have no need for more than 2 bikes. As you said, no drilling and I just finished the roof hoist today and pulling the rack off was quick - just do the six trail rail bolts, attach straps and winch it up. Drove around with it on for the past couple days, so far so good.

 

[abugarcias]

I did do the extra brace and did use the long slotted holes and placed them equidistant from the center. Once everything is bolted it is very stiff (14mm carriage bolts on the rack, 13mm and 11mm for the bike accessories). No racking, flexing, creaking, or anything when testing by sitting and standing on it (I'm 6'4", 235lb). You have a lot of options to pick when placing the supports and side panels, which could adjust to your personal needs for how you mount stuff on it. I have two front tire mounts I haven't put on yet because I'm not sure where I want them (near the tailgate for access but blocking other stuff in the bed, or near the cab so stuff is accessible but harder to get to the wheels). You can see I have it mounted and I didn't take off the soft tonneau, just the locks near the tailgate.

I have one, what I expect to be minor nitpick. The adapters for the trail rail system are a plate with a threaded bolt (with no head on the bolt) welded into a hole in the plate. As the back side of the plate is smooth, there isn't much there for the weld to grab to. It may have been my fault, but when the 200lb gorilla started wrenching I pulled one of the posts out of the plate (maybe it was a weak weld too as I only got one thread into the nylon). My neighbor has a welder and he fixed it in 3 seconds. The reason why I tried to tighten it as much as I did was that the threads had barely gotten to the nylon lock portion of the nut and i was expecting the threads to pop through a bit more. I don't know that it is necessary to change how the threaded bolt is welded to the plate, but maybe making it a little longer so one can have some confidence that the nylon portion is actually locking on the treads. I just snugged them to where the plate and washer don't move and nothing further. I'll probably just toss some Locktite on them since I don't plan on taking the adapter plates off.

One should really make sure to set the width of the rack to be well adjusted for the bed (it can fit a variety of bed widths). Although loading will present some "spread" to the rack as the support arms are angled, if there is any gap when you have a few hundred pounds on the rack it will try and move and put a lot of force on the trail rail adapter plates (those posts aren't designed for that kind of load). If it is a snug, no gap fit with no loading, you'll benefit from the bedsides being pressed by the feet of the rack once loaded and then I'd only imagine a catastrophic event would cause a problem. I spent a lot of time making sure things were square, a snug fit, and so forth. It feels really darn strong.

Do you have a pic from either the front or back that shows how much the bike sticks out laterally? Does it block the side mirrors any?

 

[steffen707]

Hi everyone! RCI recently acquired a 2020 Gladiator for product R&D and will soon be launching some awesome new products for it, the first of which being our Gladiator Bed Rack! Let us know what you think, these are already in production and shipping out of our Loveland, CO manufacturing facility!

Features:
-12ga steel construction, which we have tested in-house to support 1,500lbs static weight evenly spread out over the rack (we recommend 700lbs maximum for everyday use)
-Black textured powdercoating, with a heavy duty epoxy primer basecoat
-Ability to mount anything and everything you could want on your rack with built in 3/8" slotted holes
-EASILY mount a roof top tent with no modification
-Mount bikes on the side of the rack for safe and simple transport
-Attach Rotopax, Maxtrax, Hi-lift, Shovels, Quick-fists, etc
-18" height from top of bed rail to top of rack (or we also have a 12" height option available!)
-Includes mounting brackets for attaching to your accessory track if equipped

what's the website to purchase these?

 

[Slapping_Rabbits]

what's the website to purchase these?

https://rcimetalworks.com/product-category/jeep/gladiator/

 

[Jdyowa]

https://rcimetalworks.com/product-category/jeep/gladiator/

Will this accommodate kayaks on top? Will they clear the top of the truck?

 

[Slapping_Rabbits]

Will this accommodate kayaks on top? Will they clear the top of the truck?

Nope. They sure won't. They'll be just below. You'll need something like cross bars.

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