RCV 300m axle. 1 piece vs 2 pieces

[Chetnik]

Hello gentleman!

I have a 3.0 eco. Currently rocking 3.5" clayton lift with 37s. (38s on order). I wanted to beef up my axles for peace of mind. I'm stuck between 2 piece and 1 piece from rcv. From all my research I'm 80% learning towards the 1 piece. My hang up is- I am scared of possibly having vibration or ruining the highway/daily driving experience. I drive my truck 25k miles a year. Heavy trails towing ect. Can I hear some opinions on 2 piece vs 1 piece or first hand experience. I plan on sticking with 38s for a while and won't ever go above 40s.

For reference I currently have
3.5 lift clayon
Kmc machettes
King bump stops
Falcon tie rod
Falcon 3.5 adapt
Rock jock and synergy steering/chasis
Falcon drag link 2.1
Artec inner fender
Rse sliders
Artec f/r axle truss (on order)
Fender chop (on order)
Apex boost box (on order)
Yukon rear axles (on order)

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[Dickster]

Vibrations will be from pinion angle or something out of wack on your drive line. If switching out to 1 pcs causes a bunch of Vibration it will do the same as when in 4wheel drive. This should be addressed anyways. I have not installed mine it's sitting at my buddies waiting for gears to arrive, but I went 1 pcs. We will see and if I need to change front driveline so be it. Playing with 37-40in tires I want strong as possible, I also have a procharger coming and I am not ready for Dana 60s. might as well go with the strongest and truss the 44.

 

[Chetnik]

Vibrations will be from pinion angle or something out of wack on your drive line. If switching out to 1 pcs causes a bunch of Vibration it will do the same as when in 4wheel drive. This should be addressed anyways. I have not installed mine it's sitting at my buddies waiting for gears to arrive, but I went 1 pcs. We will see and if I need to change front driveline so be it. Playing with 37-40in tires I want strong as possible, I also have a procharger coming and I am not ready for Dana 60s. might as well go with the strongest and truss the 44.

Makes sense. I currently have no vibrations. I'm more scared of them being introduced from the fad being deleted . I guess it isn't a logical worry. Thank you for easing my ocd haha. I've spent alot of time making her drive nice on the tarmac/dirt. Don't wana ruin it now. Please report back after you install yours!

 

[Dickster]

Makes sense. I currently have no vibrations. I'm more scared of them being introduced from the fad being deleted . I guess it isn't a logical worry. Thank you for easing my ocd haha. I've spent alot of time making her drive nice on the tarmac/dirt. Don't wana ruin it now. Please report back after you install yours!

I think more people feel the drag it creates vs vibration. You will notice it a little, it will be like leaving your hubs locked in.

 

[Blade1668]

If I was going to drop the $$$ for them it would be the 1 piece to remove the disconnect and install the trusses on axles since your trying to strengthen the whole driveline. The "FAD" or "CAD" in early generation was a weakness / problem in Jeeps. If you "smoke" ball joints or outer assembly it will possibly damage the axle shaft.
I replaced the 2 piece axle shaft in my XJ years ago and have a locker in it. That wasn't ever a problem for me. I drove the heck out of it afterwards until 2017. It's thing was tie rod ends due to the lift.

 

[Chetnik]

I think more people feel the drag it creates vs vibration. You will notice it a little, it will be like leaving your hubs locked in.

Sadly ive never experienced a vehicle with locking hubs. Hopefully nothing bothersome while dding.

 

[Dickster]

Sadly ive never experienced a vehicle with locking hubs. Hopefully nothing bothersome while dding.

No not bothersome but noticeable. Since you know what it is it might not bother you. I'll report back once mine is installed. Gears should of been here by now and truck should be on the lift, but his warehouse he ordered from is taking their sweet time.

 

[rharr]

1 or 2 is a hard choice.

In theory if you keep the 2 piece you can screw with the fad shifter and keep the fad from engaging in 4L, which in turn would give you 2L. Without the 2nd axle shaft being able to engage the wheel, it will not let the diff spider gears work against each other and lock up and get power to the tires (a good thing when in 2L).

On the other hand a 1 piece shaft is stronger and has less chance of failure.

3rd option get the 2 piece and the spicer override collar that does away with the fad and locks the 2 shafts together.

A lot of the wheeling here in s az is high traction and you don't need the front axle engaged just the lower gears and a rear locker sometimes. 2L help cut down on the wear and tear to the front when not really needed.

I am also trying to figure out what I want too.

 

[RodRecket]

I've been back and forth quite a bit too. My JT is primarily a DD that gets me to trails all over the country and then experiences pretty hard wheeling with the expectation of getting me home. The driving experience on the road is very important to me. The main reason I'm leaning 2 piece is because I haven't heard of a 2 piece RCV failing yet. If I can keep the current on road driving experience and have the strength of an RCV shaft it's a win/win. If I were more hardcore or didn't DD the truck I'd be more apt to go with the strongest possible solution, a 1 piece.

 

[BigG]

I just did the two piece, running 38’s. Just ran the rubicon both ways with them. Either one you get has the same warranty I believe.

 

[e36racer]

I have the 35 spline ARB with the 2 piece RCV front shafts. I run her pretty hard off road and haven’t had any issues

 

[Troybilt]

RCV claims only 5% weaker than the 1 pice. That is why I chose to go with the 2pice.

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