Single or two piece axle?

[Flyin6]

Less back space is going to make it fit even worse you need more back spacing not less. The portion the bolts to the hub is always going to be the same distance from the rotor and the brake caliper . What your saying does not compute. More back space negative -12 is about 4.50 ....-13 is 4.75 of backspace. Which puts the dish further away from the tie rods , frame, this keep the tire from rubbing the sway bar end links etc..
If I was you I would go back and read up on wether they say that 3.75 or whatever Back spacing is the minimum in my brain 5.72 makes your tire stick way out

From the TeraFlex site:

Specs:
• Minimum Wheel Diameter: 17”
• Back Spacing: 4.75” or less
• MUST VERIFY FITMENT W/ DOWNLOADABLE TEMPLATE
• Bolt Pattern: 5x5” Stock Brake Rotor Reference:
• JL Sahara/Rubicon front: 12.9” x 1.1” (330mm x 28mm) vented rotors
• JL Sahara/Rubicon rear: 13.4” x 0.55” (342mm x 14mm) solid rotors
• JL Sport front: 12.9” x 0.94” (330mm x 24mm) vented rotors
• JL Sport rear: 12.9” x 0.47” (328mm x 12mm) solid rotors
• JT front: 12.9” x 1.1” (330mm x 28mm) vented rotors
• JT rear: 13.6” x 0.86” (345mm x 22mm) solid rotors
• JK front and rear: 11.9” x 1.1” (302mm x 28mm) vented rotors (U.S.-spec)

Am I reading this wrong???

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[Flyin6]

Borah wheel specs:
Tech Specs:
Manufacturing Process: Cast
Material: Aluminum
Coatings: Paint, Primer
Size: 17" x 8.5"
Weight: 33 lbs
Bolt Pattern: 5x5
Hub Bore Diameter: 71.5mm
Offset: +25mm
Approximate Backspacing: 5.72"
Weight Rating: 2,400lbs

 

[Stan H]

Example 1: +25 mm offset = The center of the wheel is 25 mm closer to the outside, or curbside, of the wheel. (+) offset pushes the wheel farther into the caliper/brake

 

[Rusty PW]

Less back space is going to make it fit even worse you need more back spacing not less. The portion the bolts to the hub is always going to be the same distance from the rotor and the brake caliper . What your saying does not compute. More back space negative -12 is about 4.50 ....-13 is 4.75 of backspace. Which puts the dish further away from the tie rods , frame, this keep the tire from rubbing the sway bar end links etc..
If I was you I would go back and read up on wether they say that 3.75 or whatever Back spacing is the minimum in my brain 5.72 makes your tire stick way out

You have it backwards. A 5.72" backspacing makes the wheel sit more inboard. A 4.5" backspacing sticks out more.

 

[Stan H]

You have it backwards. A 5.72" backspacing makes the wheel sit more inboard. A 4.5" backspacing sticks out more.

Yes that's what I been saying the part that the lugs mount to is further to the curb side of the rim with a +25 .which makes the rest of the rim stick under the fender towards the frame.
I went and looked at that description and something aint right.

 

[Stan H]

Second thought I give up

 

[Wheelin98TJ]

Less back space is going to make it fit even worse you need more back spacing not less. The portion the bolts to the hub is always going to be the same distance from the rotor and the brake caliper . What your saying does not compute. More back space negative -12 is about 4.50 ....-13 is 4.75 of backspace. Which puts the dish further away from the tie rods , frame, this keep the tire from rubbing the sway bar end links etc..
If I was you I would go back and read up on wether they say that 3.75 or whatever Back spacing is the minimum in my brain 5.72 makes your tire stick way out

Example 1: +25 mm offset = The center of the wheel is 25 mm closer to the outside, or curbside, of the wheel. (+) offset pushes the wheel farther into the caliper/brake

-12 has 1 mm more backspacing than -13 if all other specs are the same. Not less.

 

[Flyin6]

SO-

Are we good on the back spacing thing???

;-)

 

[Flyin6]

Stock rear brakes (rotors/pads replaced after an axle seal leak @25k miles 50k now)

Stock calipers up front w/ PowerStop Z36 Extreme Truck and Tow Brake Rotor and Pad Kit

I'm happy with the combo. We'll see how Moab goes this years since I regeared so steeply (5.38s)

I decided to go this route as well. Since I would encounter interference issues with the T-Flex brake system, I defer to your experience. I ordered the complete 4-wheel kit since I previously smoked my brakes twice. This should (hopefully) bring me up to spec.

 

[RodRecket]

I decided to go this route as well. Since I would encounter interference issues with the T-Flex brake system, I defer to your experience. I ordered the complete 4-wheel kit since I previously smoked my brakes twice. This should (hopefully) bring me up to spec.

I can't recall on your build if you have extended your brake lines, but now is a good opportunity to upgrade to braided lines. Should provide a little better pedal feel in addition to the other braking components.

 

[WILDHOBO]

Continuing with my build (22 JTR) I am about to purchase the Teraflex big brake kit (4-wheel) and upgrade to forged axles.

Regarding the axles, I will likely be going with the Yukon forged rear axle set. For the front I am considering either the Yukon or the RCV set. Knowing the RCV set is stronger, it then makes the geats the "fusible link." Maybe it would be better to have the U-joint grenade??? Next consideration is the front axle disconnect. I am thinking I want to lose that. Not only is it a weak link, but with removing it I eliminate a possible issue should the disconnecting mechanicals/electronics ever fail.

I'm sure many have considered the same things. What would be your thoughts?

Definitely RCV. No contest. But no need for the 300m version. Regarding the fad, per RCV directly, keep your fad. The seals are designed for a two piece, and axle seal leaks will almost certainly occur with the fad delete. These aren’t the fads of old. They very rarely fail.

 

[WILDHOBO]

...Which is one of the strong points for this choice. That and the U-joint axles are less than half the cost of the RCVs

They’re cheaper because they suck. Sorry to be blunt, but they really do.RCVs will eventually need rebuilds, but they won’t catastrophically fail. They’ll just get noisy when bearing races start to wear.

 

[Flyin6]

I can't recall on your build if you have extended your brake lines, but now is a good opportunity to upgrade to braided lines. Should provide a little better pedal feel in addition to the other braking components.

I already have extended braided brake lines in the back. Still stock up front

 

[Flyin6]

They’re cheaper because they suck. Sorry to be blunt, but they really do.RCVs will eventually need rebuilds, but they won’t catastrophically fail. They’ll just get noisy when bearing races start to wear.

Roger that
I ordered the RCV shafts yesterday. On back order due in 7-8 Feb

 

[WILDHOBO]

Roger that
I ordered the RCV shafts yesterday. On back order due in 7-8 Feb

You’ll love them. I’ve got 60k miles on mine.

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