Recommendations for replacement brakes?

[ShadowsPapa]

Why? Much of that is bling, bragging rights, etc. - unless you really go fast and hit the brakes hard at the end with a bigger than specified load - I doubt they'll do much good.
IMO, some of those are simply accessories with little if any gain.

Heck, in a near-pile-up situation on I80 a couple of years ago, I stopped my stock SX4 faster than the person behind me with a modern SUV could stop and they had to take to the shoulder to miss me. (of course likely I was paying attention and they were not LOL) I bet they had to go back and change some clothes. My high rear bumper and hitch would have totaled their pretty SUV)

Then there's the question - which pretty red system are you referring to? There's one in particular that AMC people have complained about in the past (when retrofitting their cars to modern disk brakes)

If I see real world tests performed not by the brake maker and not by some magazine that gets advertising dollars and not by YT "influencers", I might take a look.
Beware of some YT vids - people find easy ways to become a star and make a lot of money, that's one reason I don't trust much that I see on YT and instacrap.

Pet Shop Boys had a song that an insurance company is using in their ads now - and IMO, that fits a lot of internet people.

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[PyrPatriot]

At 43k miles with no towing and very little hauling, some trips through mud as in my profile pic, my front brakes are at a 4, rear are at an 8. Will replace front ones at 50k. For the Sport Max Tow, does anyone have a specific part number they used?

Would these be the ones to go with (RockAuto's "best" ones but they don't give you part numbers based on VIN) these? Why are they so much cheaper than a set of Mopars?

Also, the place that rotated my tires (I don't have a spot to do it, gravel driveway) said my rotors should also get a turning/polishing. Is that needed? I think I can change the pads myself (can rent a lift for $30 for an hour, but tire rotation at a shop was $25, so tire rotation shop, other things DIY)

 

[ShadowsPapa]

At 43k miles with no towing and very little hauling, some trips through mud as in my profile pic, my front brakes are at a 4, rear are at an 8. Will replace front ones at 50k. For the Sport Max Tow, does anyone have a specific part number they used?

Would these be the ones to go with (RockAuto's "best" ones but they don't give you part numbers based on VIN) these? Why are they so much cheaper than a set of Mopars?

Also, the place that rotated my tires (I don't have a spot to do it, gravel driveway) said my rotors should also get a turning/polishing. Is that needed? I think I can change the pads myself (can rent a lift for $30 for an hour, but tire rotation at a shop was $25, so tire rotation shop, other things DIY)

I almost always resurface the rotors when replacing pads. I know a lot of non-professionals will say no, just slap pads on - but consider this -
The pads have worn the rotor surface less than perfectly evenly. Eventually, things "wear to fit". Putting new pads on a rotor that is less than perfectly true and parallel, perhaps even with some low spots, will mean not all of the pad surface is hitting the rotor.
I'm a real OCD person on brakes - people spend mega-bucks to make things go fast and make them pretty -but seem to want to save 50 bucks on what makes it STOP - baffles me.
It takes how much HP to make a 5,000 pound truck go from 0 to 60 in 7 seconds. How much power does it take to make it stop in half that time?
You need the entire surface of the pad to engage with the rotor. You need the rotor to not be slippery or have a taper to it or runout. The pads need to transfer heat to the rotor.

Make sure you follow the instructions for changing the pads IF you DIY - some require tools to retract the caliper piston, there's things to watch out for.
It's likely going to take renting some tools - beyond a lift. These ain't old-fashioned brakes where you popped the lid on the master cylinder, removed some fluid, then used large water pump pliers to force the piston back.
I've not checked, but you may need to perform the ABS retract caliper thing.
I've not paid attention to the details on THESE trucks - it varies with vehicles, models and years.

Maybe someone can chime in - do these use the system to retract the calipers? Via ABS?

 

[Mac]

If they are like the JK brakes, which they probably are, you can just push the pistons in on the calipers. As far as turning rotors, I wouldn’t waste my time, rotors are cheap as important as brakes are I always replace them with the pads, plus they look much better too with no rust on the edges or the hats.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

If they are like the JK brakes, which they probably are, you can just push the pistons in on the calipers. As far as turning rotors, I wouldn’t waste my time, rotors are cheap as important as brakes are I always replace them with the pads, plus they look much better too with no rust on the edges or the hats.

Yeah, that's another thing. It used to be a fraction of the cost to turn and resurface rotors. With today's labor costs vs. less expensive parts, it's not always the case. Plus you keep the mass of the rotors (heat dissipation and all that)

 

[dcmdon]

Short of going to larger diameter rotors, they are all pretty much the same.

Its all about their ability to shed heat. And size and mass are what matters there.

Pads its a toss up. More aggressive will wear rotors but give better initial bite, especially when wet.

I'd just stick with OEM or similar.

I have warped rotors consistently on every non-europeans vehicle I've ever owned. I'm just too hard on most stock brakes. I'll let the factory replace them repeatedly under warranty. then eventually install larger rotors. At least in the front. Since the Gladiator actually has larger rear brake rotors than fronts. Which is strange.

 

[InvertedLogic]

Short of going to larger diameter rotors, they are all pretty much the same.

Its all about their ability to shed heat. And size and mass are what matters there.

Pads its a toss up. More aggressive will wear rotors but give better initial bite, especially when wet.

I'd just stick with OEM or similar.

I have warped rotors consistently on every non-europeans vehicle I've ever owned. I'm just too hard on most stock brakes. I'll let the factory replace them repeatedly under warranty. then eventually install larger rotors. At least in the front. Since the Gladiator actually has larger rear brake rotors than fronts. Which is strange.

Larger in diameter, but not as thick if I recall correctly. Something to do with towing braking stability.

 

[PyrPatriot]

I almost always resurface the rotors when replacing pads. I know a lot of non-professionals will say no, just slap pads on

Is this hard to do on your own?

 

[ShadowsPapa]

Is this hard to do on your own?

Not with a brake lathe, or even a lathe large enough to do the job, but I'd only use a brake lathe myself.

(I did brakes for a number of years, always had the right equipment)

 

[Minty JL]

Easy, just replace with new OEM pads & rotors and done.

Aftermarket pads almost always make noise or dust and drilled and slotted rotors are bound to warp or crack because of the excessive heat........35s, 37s and 40s add a fair amount of rotating mass.

Even if you had to pay for new rotors and pads every 50k, its cheap, reliable and works. Remember that saying, "If it ain't broke, don't fix it"

 

[PyrPatriot]

Easy, just replace with new OEM pads & rotors and done.

Aftermarket pads almost always make noise or dust and drilled and slotted rotors are bound to warp or crack because of the excessive heat........35s, 37s and 40s add a fair amount of rotating mass.

Even if you had to pay for new rotors and pads every 50k, its cheap, reliable and works. Remember that saying, "If it ain't broke, don't fix it"

Sounds very reasonable. So, anyone have part numbers for brakes and rotors for a Sport Max Tow?

 

[ShadowsPapa]

Sounds very reasonable. So, anyone have part numbers for brakes and rotors for a Sport Max Tow?

Easily found on allmoparparts.com

Easy, just replace with new OEM pads & rotors and done.

Aftermarket pads almost always make noise or dust and drilled and slotted rotors are bound to warp or crack because of the excessive heat........35s, 37s and 40s add a fair amount of rotating mass.

Even if you had to pay for new rotors and pads every 50k, its cheap, reliable and works. Remember that saying, "If it ain't broke, don't fix it"

Apologies - but I think the saying is actually "if it ain't broke, you're not trying".

 

[PyrPatriot]

Easily found on allmoparparts.com

Thank you. Looking for a 2020 Jeep Gladiator I found only these two parts for brake pads and rotors. Are the parts the same for all trims? I thought the Max Tow and Rubicon had better breaks
Rotor
Pads
Which seem to go for the Big Break Kit


Going to Mopar's website, where I am logged in and my vehicle is entered by its VIN, the following break pad numbers are provided
68250085AB
68321348AC
68250087AB
68321343AC

68250085AB and 68250087AB are listed under front brakes. Similarly on that page you will find 68456066AA for the front break pad set.

68321343AC and 68321348AC are listed under rear brakes. The pads are 68376749AD

I cannot tell what the difference is between the rotors.

Looks like using 68250087AB, 68321348AC, 68456066AA, and 68376749AD the total cost is $700. Just front brakes and rotors are $350, not bad. I'll double check with the dealership to confirm parts. I have a suspicion that the rotor part numbers are specific for Max Tow/Rubicon vs non-Maxt Tow/non-Rubicon

 

[CerOf]

Thank you. Looking for a 2020 Jeep Gladiator I found only these two parts for brake pads and rotors. Are the parts the same for all trims? I thought the Max Tow and Rubicon had better breaks
Rotor
Pads
Which seem to go for the Big Break Kit


Going to Mopar's website, where I am logged in and my vehicle is entered by its VIN, the following break pad numbers are provided
68250085AB
68321348AC
68250087AB
68321343AC

68250085AB and 68250087AB are listed under front brakes. Similarly on that page you will find 68456066AA for the front break pad set.

68321343AC and 68321348AC are listed under rear brakes. The pads are 68376749AD

I cannot tell what the difference is between the rotors.

Looks like using 68250087AB, 68321348AC, 68456066AA, and 68376749AD the total cost is $700. Just front brakes and rotors are $350, not bad. I'll double check with the dealership to confirm parts. I have a suspicion that the rotor part numbers are specific for Max Tow/Rubicon vs non-Maxt Tow/non-Rubicon

After reading a few posts above your, I went down a rabbit hole and my head hurts.

Seems some brake rotors/pads are trim specific, max tow/rubicon/diesel.

When trying to find specs, I couldn’t find any on the mopar offerings.

When cross referencing with raybestos website, I can confirm different pads and different rotors for different trims.

Raybestos listed specs but they were all the same. Vented 13.77 for the rear.
After spending an hour going back and forth in the rears only, I didn’t look at the fronts.

I need a few Advil.

 

[PyrPatriot]

After reading a few posts above your, I went down a rabbit hole and my head hurts.

Seems some brake rotors/pads are trim specific, max tow/rubicon/diesel.

When trying to find specs, I couldn’t find any on the mopar offerings.

When cross referencing with raybestos website, I can confirm different pads and different rotors for different trims.

Raybestos listed specs but they were all the same. Vented 13.77 for the rear.
After spending an hour going back and forth in the rears only, I didn’t look at the fronts.

I need a few Advil.

Hence I asked this forum. Surely SOMEONE must have replaced their brake pads by now. I am hesitant on asking the dealership or Jeep HQ after the lack of certainty in even getting the diff fluid right (see thread)

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