Redarc house Battery setup

[BunkieJeeper75]

I’m contemplating adding a “house” battery to the bed of my JT. Basicly mounting a plate with a BCDC1225D on the front wall molle panel and battery on the floor attached to molle. I will run wiring behind side wall molle panel to area near tailgate where i will mount an inverter and aux switch type panel on the molle panel. Solar connector will be in front wall corner as will future shore power charger.
Waiting for Redarc comments but figured I would inquire here also.
I’ve attached some sketches for component and installation suggestions and review.
Hopefully I going to try to keep this simple install! An
All this will be under a Smartcap.

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[Steven_B]

Very similar to my setup. I would just add a shunt to the system so that you can monitor the amp draw and capacity left in the battery. REDARC just released their own bluetooth version.

 

[BunkieJeeper75]

Very similar to my setup. I would just add a shunt to the system so that you can monitor the amp draw and capacity left in the battery. REDARC just released their own bluetooth version.

Did you hook up the Blue wire to ignition?

 

[Steven_B]

Did you hook up the Blue wire to ignition?

Yes, it's required for any vehicle with a smart alternator. I wired it to my factory aux switch. I will eventually move it over to a standard ignition on point so to free up the switch.

 

[MSFTMatt]

I had the Redarc 1225 BCDC with house battery and solar on my last truck and will repeat on my JTR. I ran the blue wire to an ignition fuse so that the controller would switch to the alternator to charge when running. I believe F53 or F52 is the cig lighter which is an ignition source so just use an ADD-A-CIRCUIT to that with blue wire. If you're going lithium, you'll need to tie in the orange wire to the battery as well. That system works like a champ tho!

 

[BunkieJeeper75]

“If you're going lithium, you'll need to tie in the orange wire to the battery as well.”
I was told by REDARC to only splice the orange and green wires together, this will then setup the charger for a lithium profile since I’m using an Antigravity DC-100-v1 100Ah 12 V Lithium Deep Cycle with BMS.

 

[MSFTMatt]

Very good to know. It’s been awhile since I did my last system and I had a AGM battery. This is why this forum is so beneficial.

 

[Jaxmax]

What are you planning on running off the 400watt inverter for load, most microwaves are 500watts and up . Depending on inverter might be better to mount it near the battery and run the heavy gauge 12VDC wires short distance and run much smaller gauge 120 volt AC wire to a receptacle at rear or even one front and one rear…..Jack

 

[teamblkdog]

I was told by REDARC to only splice the orange and green wires together, this will then setup the charger for a lithium profile since I’m using an Antigravity DC-100-v1 100Ah 12 V Lithium Deep Cycle with BMS.

Yes, do this.

 

[HooliganActual]

If you haven't pulled the trigger on the RedArc system yet, have you looked at Renogy? Their stuff is half the price and my system has worked flawlessly for ~2 years. It's all BT capable and simple to set up...

Sorry for the slight hijack, but I originally looked at things like RedArc and BattleBorn batteries and such and was surprised by the price difference.

 

[BunkieJeeper75]

What are you planning on running off the 400watt inverter for load, most microwaves are 500watts and up . Depending on inverter might be better to mount it near the battery and run the heavy gauge 12VDC wires short distance and run much smaller gauge 120 volt AC wire to a receptacle at rear or even one front and one rear…..Jack

I on

If you haven't pulled the trigger on the RedArc system yet, have you looked at Renogy? Their stuff is half the price and my system has worked flawlessly for ~2 years. It's all BT capable and simple to set up...

Sorry for the slight hijack, but I originally looked at things like RedArc and BattleBorn batteries and such and was surprised by the price difference.

No I have not and I will look

 

[BunkieJeeper75]

What are you planning on running off the 400watt inverter for load, most microwaves are 500watts and up . Depending on inverter might be better to mount it near the battery and run the heavy gauge 12VDC wires short distance and run much smaller gauge 120 volt AC wire to a receptacle at rear or even one front and one rear…..Jack

I already have an older 400 watt inverter and I just used it as “placeholder” device. May get one a little larger but not looking to need too much more that than. I appreciate your suggestion and will take under consideration. It was/is my opinion that it would be easier to mount an inverter (will electrical plugs built into unit) on the molle panel than receptacles .

 

[HooliganActual]

I already have an older 400 watt inverter and I just used it as “placeholder” device. May get one a little larger but not looking to need too much more that than. I appreciate your suggestion and will take under consideration. It was/is my opinion that it would be easier to mount an inverter (will electrical plugs built into unit) on the molle panel than receptacles .

Hey, just a thought on your electrical system. Is there a reason why you are planning on an inverter? I mean an inverter implies you are planning on having AC loads. I only ask because, as an example, a RedArc 400W Pure Sine Wave inverter has an efficiency of 88% This means that if you were running a fridge (my Dometic CFX55IM although it is AC or DCuses roughly 24aH/per day) then it would use 24aH/88%=27aH of the battery. Inverter losses can take a big bite out of your electrical storage. Even when the inverter is on but there are no other loads, it is consuming power.

When you then factor in using solar panels (which your diagram suggests) which have a very low efficiency even when getting full and direct sunlight, you may find that your AC devices gobble energy faster than you can "make" it without running the engine.

You may be aware of all of this already and, in that case, disregard my diatribe. But if you aren't aware of it, you should really think about what loads you need to run, how much power they use, how much storage you will have and how much power you can send to the storage devices.

Please don't think I am naysaying or tearing your idea apart. I want you to build a system that actually meets your needs when you are out in the field, which can save you money and frustration. I have literally had to expand my solar collection and upsize my battery because I hadn't thought far enough ahead and learned some "hard/expensive" lessons. Food for thought

 

[BunkieJeeper75]

Hey, just a thought on your electrical system. Is there a reason why you are planning on an inverter? I mean an inverter implies you are planning on having AC loads. I only ask because, as an example, a RedArc 400W Pure Sine Wave inverter has an efficiency of 88% This means that if you were running a fridge (my Dometic CFX55IM although it is AC or DCuses roughly 24aH/per day) then it would use 24aH/88%=27aH of the battery. Inverter losses can take a big bite out of your electrical storage. Even when the inverter is on but there are no other loads, it is consuming power.

When you then factor in using solar panels (which your diagram suggests) which have a very low efficiency even when getting full and direct sunlight, you may find that your AC devices gobble energy faster than you can "make" it without running the engine.

You may be aware of all of this already and, in that case, disregard my diatribe. But if you aren't aware of it, you should really think about what loads you need to run, how much power they use, how much storage you will have and how much power you can send to the storage devices.

Please don't think I am naysaying or tearing your idea apart. I want you to build a system that actually meets your needs when you are out in the field, which can save you money and frustration. I have literally had to expand my solar collection and upsize my battery because I hadn't thought far enough ahead and learned some "hard/expensive" lessons. Food for thought

Thank you …Great points and I knew them but need to review them again!
My current inverter has an on/off switch on unit. I assumed I would turn off when not in use. The whole point of me adding an inverter is “ because I can” mentality but surely it will use more power when on.
I currently have 200 watts of solar panel but yes yesterday (a sunny day in Louisiana) I was only able average generate about 100 amps over about a 4 hour period. The sun was very low in the sky so o guess that affected it because last time I checked in August I was getting about 150 amps.
My fridge consumes about the same as yours.
Thanks again for your input! I posted here because I knew I would get some head stratching input.

 

[HooliganActual]

Thank you …Great points and I knew them but need to review them again!
My current inverter has an on/off switch on unit. I assumed I would turn off when not in use. The whole point of me adding an inverter is “ because I can” mentality but surely it will use more power when on.
I currently have 200 watts of solar panel but yes yesterday (a sunny day in Louisiana) I was only able average generate about 100 amps over about a 4 hour period. The sun was very low in the sky so o guess that affected it because last time I checked in August I was getting about 150 amps.
My fridge consumes about the same as yours.
Thanks again for your input! I posted here because I knew I would get some head stratching input.

Excellent. I’ve have encountered folks wanting to use inverters and run all AC appliances but weren’t aware of how inefficient that really is. They just see it in the RV’s and Skoolies but don’t realize those rigs are carrying way more solar panels and battery storage than is reasonable for a pickup truck. Lol

All good, keep on trucking!

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