Relocating horns

[folkers]

Hello Folks,

Been reading a lot about security and such on the forum. Someone suggested relocating/swapping the horns in an effort to make it more difficult for a thief to cut the horn wires. I currently have the front grill off as I just installed the bolt hood lock, so I figured now would be a good time to modify the horns. I want to ask if someone could take me to school on how they did it. Pics would sure help. I have a 2024 Sport S.

Thanks

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[Texbaz]

I have searched for the same info Google, wrangler forums etc.

What I think people have done is, remove the horns and remount them with the electrical connection pointing in board, and not allowing easy access to the wires,or connections.

Have not seen any write ups or procedures.
Sorry I can't help but when installed my BOLT, I was in the situation.

Good luck

 

[fourfa]

Tagged for interest. I don’t care too much about security but on my old Tacoma, the horns were bolted to a flimsy folded flap of metal off the grille frame. On one long, punishing high speed desert washboard road that flap fatigued and broke. The horn fell between the radiator and a crossbar, vibrated violently for hours, eroded a hole in the A/C condenser, and let all the refrigerant out. This was in Death Valley, so not ideal!

Anyway I don’t like having anything out there in front of the radiator stack

 

[folkers]

Wow brother, that must have been painful for ya. I here ya on radiators, let's just say they can be fragile to work around.

 

[IamPro2A]

Thankfully, I live in an area where this type of thing is pretty unlikely. But if this was a concern to me, I think I would leave the stock horns exactly where they are. Then I would add an additional horn, the loudest one I could find/afford, somewhere secure and impossible to see or reach without opening the hood. Let them think they killed the horn, instead of just making them try a little harder.

 

[folkers]

That's a great idea. My only concern is my Gladiator is a 2024, so I'd rather stay away from having to putz with stock wiring. If the Gladiator were beyond warranty, I'd probably go your route.

 

[Texbaz]

Thankfully, I live in an area where this type of thing is pretty unlikely. But if this was a concern to me, I think I would leave the stock horns exactly where they are. Then I would add an additional horn, the loudest one I could find/afford, somewhere secure and impossible to see or reach without opening the hood. Let them think they killed the horn, instead of just making them try a little harder.

That's a great idea. I'll be looking for another horn assy. To place under the hood, my truck is still under warranty can't see how adding a horn could cause an issue with warranty.

Oh yeah, when I installed my BOLT lock the fiber lock nut for the pivot lever was not tight at best just engaged first couple threads very deceiving. Check that nut.

 

[folkers]

In looking into this further while the front grill was off, I discovered that the horns are bolted to a bracket which is then bolted to the radiator frame. The horns are fastened with a 10mm nut on the back of the horn.. I was able to get the box end of a wrench to loosen the nut that holds the horns. I decided to re-position the horns (turning them slightly) so that the connector and wiring are not so visible, and harder for a thief to cut. I could have taken the horns off and swapped then around making the wiring and connector harder to reach, but that would have involved putzing with the wires and such, but I'm too dam lazy in my old age.

As far as security is concerned, I now have the bolt hood lock installed, and I'm "on the fence" about whether to go with an ignition immobilizer or the taser pin lock.

But, the old adage goes: If someone really wants to steal a vehicle, they will.

Hope this can help somebody.

 

[Supazuk]

That's a great idea. My only concern is my Gladiator is a 2024, so I'd rather stay away from having to putz with stock wiring. If the Gladiator were beyond warranty, I'd probably go your route.

A little different situation I want to add an air horn to mine but similarly I don't want to cut the harness.
I am trying to find the connectors so I can make a Jumper wire that is plug and play . Anyone know what type plug is used?

 

[Texbaz]

In looking into this further while the front grill was off, I discovered that the horns are bolted to a bracket which is then bolted to the radiator frame. The horns are fastened with a 10mm nut on the back of the horn.. I was able to get the box end of a wrench to loosen the nut that holds the horns. I decided to re-position the horns (turning them slightly) so that the connector and wiring are not so visible, and harder for a thief to cut. I could have taken the horns off and swapped then around making the wiring and connector harder to reach, but that would have involved putzing with the wires and such, but I'm too dam lazy in my old age.

As far as security is concerned, I now have the bolt hood lock installed, and I'm "on the fence" about whether to go with an ignition immobilizer or the taser pin lock.

But, the old adage goes: If someone really wants to steal a vehicle, they will.

Hope this can help somebody.

Great information,
Its been mentioned on this forum thieves don't go into the engine bay when they steal the truck. But the bolt lock is definetly to prevent theft of components.

I have a kill switch and the bolt, layers is what is preached here.

 

[folkers]

I hear ya on the security layers. As I said: I'm on the fence between ignition immobilizer vs taser PIN lock. I'm a little put off about the taser and navigating dealership visits while the gladiator is under warranty. Seems like there's a little confusion about whether or not to leave the tazer installed on a dealership visit. I've read so many posts about it I can't remember if there's a consensus what the best practice is? Looks like the memory is starting to go!

 

[Mr._Bill]

I hear ya on the security layers. As I said: I'm on the fence between ignition immobilizer vs taser PIN lock. I'm a little put off about the taser and navigating dealership visits while the gladiator is under warranty. Seems like there's a little confusion about whether or not to leave the tazer installed on a dealership visit. I've read so many posts about it I can't remember if there's a consensus what the best practice is? Looks like the memory is starting to go!

The official line from ZAutomotive is to unmarry and remove before a dealer visit. Some leave it in, some remove it and leave it married. It depends on the dealer and the reason for the visit. Some are now using Jscan to make the changes for tires, lights, and gearing before adding the Tazer so the changes are not undone when it is unmarried.

 

[folkers]

I appreciate you bringing some clarity....thanks

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