Remote a power inverter using the factory AUX switch?

[LunchboxCrawler92]

I can build just about anything, but electrical makes my brain hurt. I have a bone stock sport but it did come with the factory aux switches. I want to install a 300w power inverter I have so the kiddos can keep their devices charged in the back. Plan on using one of the 40amp switches. My sport did not come with any power niceties in the back seat. The inverter I bought has a remote feature, https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001539BCE/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1. For convenience, I want to control power to it from the aux switch and use uconnect to keep it on on when the ignition is on. I'm sure it's very simple but my confidence lacks in this area and I would hate to fry my new inverter.

Any help is greatly appreciated!!!

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[LunchboxCrawler92]

I can build just about anything, but electrical makes my brain hurt. I have a bone stock sport but it did come with the factory aux switches. I want to install a 300w power inverter I have so the kiddos can keep their devices charged in the back. Plan on using one of the 40amp switches. My sport did not come with any power niceties in the back seat. The inverter I bought has a remote feature, https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001539BCE/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1. For convenience, I want to control power to it from the aux switch and use uconnect to keep it on on when the ignition is on. I'm sure it's very simple but my confidence lacks in this area and I would hate to fry my new inverter.

Any help is greatly appreciated!!!

I suspect the remote switch is simply to open and close the circuit...but do I use one wire or two since the aux switch only has one wire under the dash? Or do I simply connect the factory 40amp aux switch wire to the remote port of the inverter???

From the user manual:

5.4 Remote A user supplied remote option is available for both the GPSW150 and GPSW300 inverters. When the ON / OFF switch is moved to the remote setting, the inverter becomes operational only when a connection is made between the two terminals of the remote input. A switch may be placed between the two terminals and the inverter can then be turned off using the switch. A ǩ” (3.0 mm) precision screwdriver is recommended for tightening the two terminals. It is recommended that a #18 gauge wire no longer than 150 feet (45.72 m) (terminal to terminal) is used for this application.

 

[Mr._Bill]

You could use the 12v power port on the dash, or connect it to an AUX switch.

If you have the factory installed AUX switches, there is an ignition controlled hot wire under the dash. Since it's only a 300 watt inverter, I would probably just use that to power it.

The remote terminal on the inverter lets you use any basic on/off switch to control when it is active. This is not as useful for you, where you have options to control the power going to the inverter. It is an option better suited to larger inverters that are connected directly to the battery.

 

[Mr._Bill]

Another option to look at is a USB hub mounted to the back of the console. It would be smaller and more efficient than an inverter and the AC adapters. Run the power wire under the edge of the console up to the dash. Use an AUX switch or one of the hot wires to power it.

 

[LunchboxCrawler92]

You could use the 12v power port on the dash, or connect it to an AUX switch.

If you have the factory installed AUX switches, there is an ignition controlled hot wire under the dash. Since it's only a 300 watt inverter, I would probably just use that to power it.

The remote terminal on the inverter lets you use any basic on/off switch to control when it is active. This is not as useful for you, where you have options to control the power going to the inverter. It is an option better suited to larger inverters that are connected directly to the battery.

 

[LunchboxCrawler92]

Yeah didn't think of that hot wire. Does that ignition wire run through the aux switch relay system...meaning do I have to also put an inline fuse? I dont think I do...

Thanks for the help!!!

 

[LunchboxCrawler92]

Yeah didn't think of that hot wire. Does that ignition wire run through the aux switch relay system...meaning do I have to also put an inline fuse? I dont think I do...

Thanks for the help!!!

If I do decide to use the 40amp Aux switch, I can run the inverter red wire to it and then the ground to the ground terminal on the battery correct?

 

[Mr._Bill]

Yeah didn't think of that hot wire. Does that ignition wire run through the aux switch relay system...meaning do I have to also put an inline fuse? I dont think I do...

Thanks for the help!!!

The hot wires are fused and run with the AUX bundle, but are not part of the AUX switch system.

 

[Mr._Bill]

If I do decide to use the 40amp Aux switch, I can run the inverter red wire to it and then the ground to the ground terminal on the battery correct?

Yes, as long as the inverter being used won't draw more than the circuit is fused for. The ground can be connected to the frame, to the ground point by the battery, or to the battery negative terminal.

 

[LunchboxCrawler92]

Man I cant tell you thank you enough!!

Hope I don't burn my Jeep down....haha

 

[Factoid]

If you use an 18ga wire, there is a high probability you will.

I would not be wiring an inverter if all you want to do is charge devices. Each conversion cycle erodes efficiency significantly. All devices charge batteries using DC and an inverter converts DC to AC and then the device charger will convert it back to DC with each cycle loosing significant power through heat. If you need the inverter anyway, buy one that offers USB ports also. The best of both worlds.

I’ve mentioned this before on this forum, But you always size the wire to the device and the fuse to the wire. The 40amp Aux switch uses a 40amp fuse and a 12ga wire, if you connect an 18ga wire to it, the wire will become the fuse as the fuse can handle way more amperage than an 18ga wire! That would be a failure and potential fire.

Below is a simple chart and while wire length also matterss, this will work for you. Since your chosen fuse is already set at 40amp, use a 12ga wire Which I hope is the red wire gauge that comes with the inverter.

 

[LunchboxCrawler92]

If you use an 18ga wire, there is a high probability you will.

I would not be wiring an inverter if all you want to do is charge devices. Each conversion cycle erodes efficiency significantly. All devices charge batteries using DC and an inverter converts DC to AC and then the device charger will convert it back to DC with each cycle loosing significant power through heat. If you need the inverter anyway, buy one that offers USB ports also. The best of both worlds.

I’ve mentioned this before on this forum, But you always size the wire to the device and the fuse to the wire. The 40amp Aux switch uses a 40amp fuse and a 12ga wire, if you connect an 18ga wire to it, the wire will become the fuse as the fuse can handle way more amperage than an 18ga wire! That would be a failure and potential fire.

Below is a simple chart and while wire length also matterss, this will work for you. Since your chosen fuse is already set at 40amp, use a 12ga wire Which I hope is the red wire gauge that comes with the inverter.

Thanks a bunch for the help. I decided to install a three port USB port in the back of the center console. It was super easy. I centered the port on the blank area of the rear facing center console, used a Dremel to get the port hole just right and mounted it. I ran the power for it to the wire bundle under the passenger side console ignition wire so it would be powered when the vehicle was on. I forewent the AUX switch option to leave those available for other accessories. I will keep the inverter for a future project later (110v option to power laptops, etc.).

I will def save this chart for future power considerations. Thanks again!

 

[Factoid]

Nicely done!

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