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Using the Aux light switches

BajaDrifter

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I found mine it the Glove compartment. However for a nice neat job I would consider something like this. Comes in two models soldered pigtails are on and connect to OEM wires with crimps, or you can solder the OEM leads directly on yourself.

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Nice and neat. Now tell us where to get it. Tks
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Factoid

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So if you choose to solder, you can mitigate the issue of flexible stranded wire running to a rigid area by using heat shrink longer than your joint to move the flex away from the joint, and wrapping it like the auto makers and wiring harness makers did.
If you choose to crimp - I'd also keep the wires sealed and wrapped - more for moisture and dirt but also because there will be SOME vibrations otherwise. And if you crimp - do it as tight as you can. I've seen wires pull out months down the road from one-handed crimps.

Again, not arguing with the info Mark gave -
I was with you and aligned until this point. You should not chose to solder without significant experience in how to solder. Understanding cold solder joints, wire wicking, and how to properly use a soldering iron to heat the wires, but not melt the solder. A novice is much better off using crimps and being careful not to over crimp! Too much pressure is just as bad as too little, but a much safer bet than soldering if you don’t have experience.

I started my career working on weapons systems in the navy before joining RCA In Moorestown, NJ as an electrical engineer, designing the many baseline changes for the Aegis Weapons System and training the officers and crew for Aegis cruisers from USS Ticonderoga CG-47 through USS San Jacinto CG-56. Even after moving up through the management ranks over the last 30 years, I’ve continued to practice my craft as a hobby. Wiring is nothing to fool with, but can be safely handled with a few basic principles mostly covered above by Bill.
 

Texops

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Ok I’ve got a question about a problem i created, wiring up some 4” rigid 360 spot lights. I had to connect the lights to the harness 3 wires power spot / Ground/ backlight. So i used to soldier my remote control cars so no big deal soldier them together but then i didn’t realize the stupid mistake i used liquid masking tape around each attachment then let it dry. Then i had one heat shrink to go over all three wires. When i used heat to shrink the tubing i didn’t realize it melted the liquid electrical tape inside. So it never lit up the lights & must have blown a fuse or could it blow a relay ? I repaired the wires but can’t get the switches to work. The little 15 amp fuses look good is there a main aug switch fuse ?
 

BearFootSam

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There are pros and cons--and many arguments over beers--on the subject of solder versus crimp. Back in my USAF days, tech orders required aircraft wiring repairs to be done with crimps. Reason was that high vibration can cause failure of soldered wires. Also, when you solder wire, you take nice stranded wire, which stands up quite well to some flexing, and make it a single strand, which breaks quite easily with flexing. Crimping also provides the better mechanical connection. However, good soldering will give an excellent electrical connection resistant to corrosive elements. I say, consider the environment your work will need to tolerate, and choose the most appropriate answer.
I realize this is old, but i. The Amateur radio world the subject is always a hot one. Every manual, TM, engineering guide I’ve consulted the consensus is that crimps are best.

A good crimp should cold weld copper sealing out moisture and creating a very solid bond. You avoid risk of a cold solder joint (always possible when trying not to melt insulation) or embrittlement.
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