Using the Aux light switches

[sad85XD]

Got some exterior lights over the holidays. I've watch some videos on "how to" so I have the gist of what to do.

Any one have experience with implementing the built in AUX switches?
Or any general wisdom when installing exterior lighting?

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[Mark Doiron]

Got some exterior lights over the holidays. I've watch some videos on "how to" so I have the gist of what to do.

Any one have experience with implementing the built in AUX switches?
Or any general wisdom when installing exterior lighting?

Check you current (amperage) requirements against what the various wires deliver (see your owner's manual). You'll find the wire pigtails by the battery for your front-mounted lights (behind the glove box for the interior accessories). There isn't much free-wire outside the loom, but you can unwrap a bit of that and finish it off with a bit of electrical tape. I trimmed each wire partway down the shrinkwrap insulator over the pigtail to save as much of the pigtail as possible. They provide crimps and shrinkwrap with the kit, but I used my own butt connectors with built-in weather sealing. From there, run the wires directly to the lights. If they gave you relays and harness for the lights, you won't need them unless your current exceeds the amperage capability of the wire (40 amps for two, 15 amps for the other two). That is unlikely if you're using LEDs. Route the new wires away from heat sources, securing here and there to prevent chaffing. I'd recommend that even though each of the aux wires is fused. that you retain any fuse that comes with the lighting kit. Don't forget when you're done to go into the UConnect settings and program how you want the lights to work (ignition on or off, etc). Good luck!

 

[sad85XD]

Check you current (amperage) requirements against what the various wires deliver (see your owner's manual). You'll find the wire pigtails by the battery for your front-mounted lights (behind the glove box for the interior accessories). There isn't much free-wire outside the loom, but you can unwrap a bit of that and finish it off with a bit of electrical tape. I trimmed each wire partway down the shrinkwrap insulator over the pigtail to save as much of the pigtail as possible. They provide crimps and shrinkwrap with the kit, but I used my own butt connectors with built-in weather sealing. From there, run the wires directly to the lights. If they gave you relays and harness for the lights, you won't need them unless your current exceeds the amperage capability of the wire (40 amps for two, 15 amps for the other two). That is unlikely if you're using LEDs. Route the new wires away from heat sources, securing here and there to prevent chaffing. I'd recommend that even though each of the aux wires is fused. that you retain any fuse that comes with the lighting kit. Don't forget when you're done to go into the UConnect settings and program how you want the lights to work (ignition on or off, etc). Good luck!

Any specific heat sources to stay way from?

 

[Mark Doiron]

Any specific heat sources to stay way from?

Radiator, air conditioner condensor, power steering pump, and lines for all of those. You'll find it's a bit challenging to get from the wire pigtails to the front bumper without coming close to those. I opted for some high temperature loom for my winch wiring that runs in the same area. I used Round-it 2000 which I pick up from a local supplier. It's a split loom, so you can run it over existing wiring harnesses without removing connectors. You can see it on page 55 of their catalog here:

https://spectrowireandcable.com/catalog-pdf/

For some reason it never shows up on their website beyond the catalog entry.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

For me it's western union joints, soldered, heat shrink, liquid tape.
Or the heat shrink that has a sealer that melts and seals as the tubing shrinks.
Wish I had grabbed more of the big reels of the heat shrink that CCC was throwing away before I resigned from the company. They bought it by a big roll and were changing specs and so were tossing the left over they had. Silly me.

I used a fire-resistant split loom on the injector wiring on the 4.0 I put into my car, as well as other spots where I thought it could get a little warm.
I tested that stuff with a torch - it never actually caught fire and burned- it would melt after a fashion, but never flamed.

 

[Mark Doiron]

... Or the heat shrink that has a sealer that melts and seals as the tubing shrinks.....

That is really nice stuff and I use when making my own wiring looms along with a webbed fiberglass loom material. Not good around heat, but great stuff with a nice appearance to give a professional look to a project. There are also terminal lugs and butt connectors that have that similar heat-activated sealant, and I use those, when appropriate. Weather-Pack connectors also prove handy. All of those materials are in that catalog I linked above. Local business for me, but some useful products for electrical projects and they do ship.

 

[mazeppa]

https://spectrowireandcable.com/catalog-pdf/

Thanks for the info and link to a local supplier, I will consider them the next time electrical supplies are needed.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

Always looking for resources and sources for the wire looms and harnesses I build for others for restoration. Has to look correct for concourse restorations besides lasting for 40 years or more. Always on the lookout for correct connectors, better methods and supplies and specific wires, colors and sizes as I have to make them perfect and no less.
Need correct connectors, pigtails, wire colors and types and more as well as weather-proof connectors that look correct or original.

If you know of any sources for fabric/cloth wire cover let me know! I need red, green, yellow and black fabric wire insulation/sleeves like shown for windshield wiper motor restorations I do. Usually the fabric is rotted away or faded or otherwise has problems.
I got lucky on this one and was able to salvage and restore the fabric wire cover but normally it's toast.

 

[Moabite]

They provide crimps and shrinkwrap with the kit, but I used my own butt connectors with built-in weather sealing.

I've read this in several places...including the owner's manual if I remember right. Any clue on where these might be? I could not find any. I wired my BD LP6 lights to one of the wires under the hood and a radio to one of the interior wires. The aux switches may be one of the best options I've seen offered on new vehicles. I have a cabinet full of wiring accessories, so I don't need whatever was supposedly supplied with the vehicle...just curious as to where they might be. I assume someone forgot to put them in my Gladiator. They also forgot windshield washer fluid.

 

[sad85XD]

I've read this in several places...including the owner's manual if I remember right. Any clue on where these might be? I could not find any. I wired my BD LP6 lights to one of the wires under the hood and a radio to one of the interior wires. The aux switches may be one of the best options I've seen offered on new vehicles. I have a cabinet full of wiring accessories, so I don't need whatever was supposedly supplied with the vehicle...just curious as to where they might be. I assume someone forgot to put them in my Gladiator. They also forgot windshield washer fluid.

Same, haven't had to do any rewiring before so I'll have to go acquire new materials if not.

 

[Rav34653]

I found mine it the Glove compartment. However for a nice neat job I would consider something like this. Comes in two models soldered pigtails are on and connect to OEM wires with crimps, or you can solder the OEM leads directly on yourself.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

That's what I'd do -
I'd solder the wires directly or use a western union joint, solder, and color-matched heat shrink with seal.
They say their crimp connectors are "heat shinkable" - meaning crimp then heat - wonder how well they seal. Still don't like crimp connectors though.

 

[Mark Doiron]

That's what I'd do -
I'd solder the wires directly or use a western union joint, solder, and color-matched heat shrink with seal.
They say their crimp connectors are "heat shinkable" - meaning crimp then heat - wonder how well they seal. Still don't like crimp connectors though.

There are pros and cons--and many arguments over beers--on the subject of solder versus crimp. Back in my USAF days, tech orders required aircraft wiring repairs to be done with crimps. Reason was that high vibration can cause failure of soldered wires. Also, when you solder wire, you take nice stranded wire, which stands up quite well to some flexing, and make it a single strand, which breaks quite easily with flexing. Crimping also provides the better mechanical connection. However, good soldering will give an excellent electrical connection resistant to corrosive elements. I say, consider the environment your work will need to tolerate, and choose the most appropriate answer.

 

[Mark Doiron]

I've read this in several places...including the owner's manual if I remember right. Any clue on where these might be? I could not find any. I wired my BD LP6 lights to one of the wires under the hood and a radio to one of the interior wires. The aux switches may be one of the best options I've seen offered on new vehicles. I have a cabinet full of wiring accessories, so I don't need whatever was supposedly supplied with the vehicle...just curious as to where they might be. I assume someone forgot to put them in my Gladiator. They also forgot windshield washer fluid.

Mine were in the glove box ...

That didn't keep them from forgetting my cigarette lighter, however. No, I don't smoke. But the ashtray (which I did receive) is useful for small trash, and the lighter for emergency starting of a fire.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

There are pros and cons--and many arguments over beers--on the subject of solder versus crimp. Back in my USAF days, tech orders required aircraft wiring repairs to be done with crimps. Reason was that high vibration can cause failure of soldered wires. Also, when you solder wire, you take nice stranded wire, which stands up quite well to some flexing, and make it a single strand, which breaks quite easily with flexing. Crimping also provides the better mechanical connection. However, good soldering will give an excellent electrical connection resistant to corrosive elements. I say, consider the environment your work will need to tolerate, and choose the most appropriate answer.

Lest anyone take this wrong - right up front, Mark has provided good info and his military experience is an excellent background in this sort of thing - aircraft are subject to vibrations and flexing and of course military standards are to prevent failure, and last through hell. And even in automotive, his info stands up just fine. He's right.
I'll just add some info for the lurkers and others so they can make an informed choice or decision and see what he's meaning.

Some background stuff:
Copper "work hardens". If you've ever worked with soft copper tubing for natural and LP gas lines, you know you don't unroll it to measure and then roll it back up. If you do, you are done, you now have rigid copper. Work hardens means it's soft until flexed, bent, hammered and yes, even vibrations act to flex copper wires in ways that end up causing it to harden and get rigid - and prone to breaking.

More background stuff:
YOU cannot make weather-proof sealed crimp connections at home. The companies that make the harnesses for cars and truck can. Those crimps from the factory are sealed. No, there's not sealer in there, but the crimp is so tight and so complete and perfect that air and moisture can't get between the wire and the terminal. They are sealed connections by virtue of the crimp process and terminal type.

Even more:
Solder does indeed cause that once flexible stranded wire to become as one, and where the flexible copper wire meets the solder, suddenly you have a place where the flexing or vibration is concentrated at the edge of the solder joint. It's a perfect sealed connection like nothing else you can make at home, but the sudden end of flex against the rigid copper joint could cause a stress point. There are ways to mitigate that.

Even more yet still! Wow:
A crimp joint you make at home won't be sealed but because the crimp itself isn't a sudden end, there's a very slight radius, it's not as bad as an abrupt stop but still - if you have rebuilt as many automotive and truck wiring harnesses as I have, you'll eventually see where the stranded wire breaks at the crimp. So it's better, but the breaks still happen (I have three big rubbermaid tubs of wiring harnesses and then a few others scattered about I could take photos of showing the wire breaks at the crimped joint - but I have to be clear - these are 20+ years old. Unless the wire flexes a lot at the crimp, you are good for a couple of decades anyway.

How to mitigate the issue of breakage at a solder joint -
Heat shrink or other means - a tight wrapped loom (not the split loom but the sort that wraps tight around the joint) will prevent that breakage.
Again, I have factory original automotive wiring harnesses that have SOLDERED JOINTS in the harness - multiple soldered joints - the solution at the factory was to wrap the joint to prevent the flexing from taking place right where the wire enters the soldered joint.
So if you do a soldered joint, if you wrap it like a factory harness you move flexing away from the joint and protect it, prevent that breakage at the joint.
The companies that made the wiring harnesses for automotive use in the 70s and 80s - Coleman was one of those companies - used soldered joints in the harness at times, especially when joining a ground lead to a main ground wire mid-way. It was then tightly wrapped.
Vibrations were also controlled at times by loops and straps - I'd suggest not leaving the aux wires hanging in mid air- that's just asking for resonant vibrations to be set up. Nice neat wires just sticking up there are pretty for show - but not for the real world.

So if you choose to solder, you can mitigate the issue of flexible stranded wire running to a rigid area by using heat shrink longer than your joint to move the flex away from the joint, and wrapping it like the auto makers and wiring harness makers did.
If you choose to crimp - I'd also keep the wires sealed and wrapped - more for moisture and dirt but also because there will be SOME vibrations otherwise. And if you crimp - do it as tight as you can. I've seen wires pull out months down the road from one-handed crimps.

Again, not arguing with the info Mark gave -

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