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remote start dont work in the cold

Lost1wing

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12.88 the morning first read

15min waiting time

pluged the IBS - 12.86

cold start crank - waiting for by dad to take the truck to go bring the kid to daycare
That looks good. Report back in a few days what the ESS page is telling you. You will need to select it on to see a message. I'm hoping for "Ready".

Since you don't have an Aux battery, you should really keep ESS selected off. It would still work but your electronics could see an unwanted voltage drop during start stop events. Just select it on once in a while after warm up to see what message is displayed. Not ready or battery charging for extended times could be a sign. Time to put that battery charger back on it. No need to disconnect anything, just be sure to connect the negative charging cable on top of the IBS and NOT on the negative post.
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gladjes

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updated the date i took *
 

ShadowsPapa

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My earlier point was that a charger for classic cars and motorcycles won't necessarily be charging your jeep batteries correctly. Your jeep requires a charger for agm batteries. Very different charging profile. Don't use older chargers on a jeep!
Unless you put newer agm batteries in your cars, there won't be a match.
In short, only use a newer agm charger on jeep agm batteries, and do not put non-agm batteries in your jeep! They won't last long.
 
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gladjes

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My earlier point was that a charger for classic cars and motorcycles won't necessarily be charging your jeep batteries correctly. Your jeep requires a charger for agm batteries. Very different charging profile. Don't use older chargers on a jeep!
Unless you put newer agm batteries in your cars, there won't be a match.

it does say its good for AMG battery on internet and i always update the battery on my cars and motorcycle for newer battery but if i need to buy an other one i can
 
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gladjes

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2.88 the morning first read

15min waiting time

pluged the IBS - 12.86

after oppening the doors 12.34

closing the doors 12.52

cold start crank - went all over the place as i was expected.. but saw a 10.2 really fast

while running - right off the bat was at 11.6... got up all the way to 13.0 after 5-7 seconds

dash says 13.0 when my dad left , going to monitor it while he drive going to take data when he comes back






*dad come back after 20 min of driving* stopped the truck

12.45 on the battery

restarted the truck
12.7 on idle in the driveway
Start and stop display says battery charging


BTW thx to everyone helping me out (shadowspapa-lost1wing) really appreciate it
 

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ShadowsPapa

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it does say its good for AMG battery on internet and i always update the battery on my cars and motorcycle for newer battery but if i need to buy an other one i can
Cars and motorcycles will be voltage-regulated for standard flooded cell batteries, typically topping out at 13.8-14.2, depending on year, make, model and so on.
AGM requires a different profile and voltage. 13.8 just won't cut it for AGM and it will never truly fully charge.
If a charger says "good for AGM" - it needs to have a button that allows you to choose the AGM battery type. They can't automatically sense it. So unless it has a button to choose standard lead acid vs. AGM......................................

A battery tender that says good for both won't ever really do the best job - it may keep it up mostly, but not ideally. They are only meant to prevent discharge and cover for parasitic draw, they aren't really "chargers" in the full respect.
 
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gladjes

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Cars and motorcycles will be voltage-regulated for standard flooded cell batteries, typically topping out at 13.8-14.2, depending on year, make, model and so on.
AGM requires a different profile and voltage. 13.8 just won't cut it for AGM and it will never truly fully charge.
If a charger says "good for AGM" - it needs to have a button that allows you to choose the AGM battery type. They can't automatically sense it. So unless it has a button to choose standard lead acid vs. AGM......................................

A battery tender that says good for both won't ever really do the best job - it may keep it up mostly, but not ideally. They are only meant to prevent discharge and cover for parasitic draw, they aren't really "chargers" in the full respect.

good ill go out buy a new charger .. almost feel like grabbing a new battery at the same time .. again...... lol but i am tired of throwing cash at it.. 2500$ full apex direction yesterday dog got sick yesterday too 1200$ at the vet lol
 

Lost1wing

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good ill go out buy a new charger .. almost feel like grabbing a new battery at the same time .. again...... lol but i am tired of throwing cash at it.. 2500$ full apex direction yesterday dog got sick yesterday too 1200$ at the vet lol
Give the IBS some time to learn. Don't rush! I would not expect to see much higher on a fully charged battery. Give it some time.
 

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Lost1wing

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sorry about that mate ..!
It has been a tough year with hurricane clean up. My attic has a ridge vent. Apparently the hurricane forced about 5-6 bushels of leaves and pine straw in the attic. My job today is cleaning it all up.
 
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gladjes

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still says ESS says not ready in the dash after a week..



12.45v in the parking right now..


last time we all tchatted it charged with a AGM charger the i bought , topped it fully charged
 
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ShadowsPapa

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still says ESS says not ready in the dash after a week..



12.45v in the parking right now..


last time we all tchatted it charged with a AGM charger the i bought , topped it fully charged
Are you checking it with a meter on the battery posts, with everything turned off, engine off, and fob away so things don't keep "waking up"?
 
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gladjes

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yup , openned the hood , waited 15 minute before going back , make sure he was ''asleep'' without my fob in my pocket


looked on the post to post .. and on the + and the post of the module , not significant different of voltage between the two
 

ShadowsPapa

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Check out this video - from @tysongladiator - a really cool guy who lays it out in language we can all understand.

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