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Since the JT is NOT considered a true 1/2 Ton

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It’s my understanding that the rear chassis was based on the RAM 1500. I’m using Ram 1500 rear springs in my JTR to hold additional weight since I have an RSI Smartcap.

it’s a midsized truck but elements of it are based on the Ram 1500 design.
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Hootbro

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It’s my understanding that the rear chassis was based on the RAM 1500. I’m using Ram 1500 rear springs in my JTR to hold additional weight since I have an RSI Smartcap.

it’s a midsized truck but elements of it are based on the Ram 1500 design.
That is interesting. How did you determine what RAM spring set part numbers to use? I would image they have a bunch also.
 

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It’s my understanding that the rear chassis was based on the RAM 1500. I’m using Ram 1500 rear springs in my JTR to hold additional weight since I have an RSI Smartcap.

it’s a midsized truck but elements of it are based on the Ram 1500 design.
From what I've been told, (by mechanics at my stealership) and from what I've read, both front and rear setups are the same as the RAM 1500. Just the axles are narrower. We even have the same auto trans. I think the transfer case is different though. Maybe in just the way it's engaged? Ours manually and the RAMs with an electronic engagement with a button on the dash somewheres...but, other than that, the underpinnings are pretty much the same. Yeah, because the overall vehicle is lighter, I'm sure springs and spring rates are different to compensate for that.
 

Deleted member 28696

That is interesting. How did you determine what RAM spring set part numbers to use? I would image they have a bunch also.
The Jeep shop recommended it when they saw I had an RSI Smartcap & they measured a 1/2” sag. They do this a lot for people who tow as well. I just had them swap out my JKS springs for the Ram 1500 mod. Also had them install Sumo 1800lbs bump stop springs which were part of that job. This was where I learned that the back end was the same as a Ram 1500. I have no idea which part numbers they used I have a 3” lift so I’m sure there are a few different options.
 
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I do dumb shit in the winter too... this is Mojave desert where I live

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I've done a lot of projects in the Mojave as a young archaeologist including a Sprint line survey between LA and Vegas - in the summer!
 

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Ha, ha. Just kidding you, but it did spark that memory. I paid $75 for that car. When a GI was rotating back to the mainland, these cars would pass on to the next unfortunate guy.
Back in the day. Some of my friends bought and sold a '69 GTO between them. Last I remember, it was sold like 14 times between them.
 

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Back in the day. Some of my friends bought and sold a '69 GTO between them. Last I remember, it was sold like 14 times between them.
Got better every time!
 

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Got better every time!
Wish. That car was beat to death. The floor board under the front bench seat rotted out. Had 3 maybe 4 motors in it. I know of 3.
 

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Wish. That car was beat to death. The floor board under the front bench seat rotted out. Had 3 maybe 4 motors in it. I know of 3.
The body and frame on my beetle don't have any rust at all (and, no bugs aren't unibody, despite what many think). But the floor pans are about 70% sheet metal patches. This was a consequence of poor rubber window seals, and years of sitting outside, getting rained on/in. Hoping to pull the body off this summer and replace the floors. My bug is a Texas car, so it's never seen salt. But the sun baked all the window rubber to death, before I replaced all the seals 5 years ago.
 

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The body and frame on my beetle don't have any rust at all (and, no bugs aren't unibody, despite what many think). But the floor pans are about 70% sheet metal patches. This was a consequence of poor rubber window seals, and years of sitting outside, getting rained on/in. Hoping to pull the body off this summer and replace the floors. My bug is a Texas car, so it's never seen salt. But the sun baked all the window rubber to death, before I replaced all the seals 5 years ago.
My dad drove Beetles for a work car. He went through 6 of them. Put 100,000 it, then trade it in for a new one. The weakest to them is under the rear seat on the passenger side. Battery acid will eat the floor right there.
 

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From what I've been told, (by mechanics at my stealership) and from what I've read, both front and rear setups are the same as the RAM 1500. Just the axles are narrower. We even have the same auto trans. I think the transfer case is different though. Maybe in just the way it's engaged? Ours manually and the RAMs with an electronic engagement with a button on the dash somewheres...but, other than that, the underpinnings are pretty much the same. Yeah, because the overall vehicle is lighter, I'm sure springs and spring rates are different to compensate for that.
Interesting - I wonder if anyone has done a side by side comparison of the frames too to see what's the same and what is different.
 

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Interesting - I wonder if anyone has done a side by side comparison of the frames too to see what's the same and what is different.
I would have to state the obvious that our frames are a bit shorter and more narrow but I believe that our frames are of a similar construction design and, are just as strong as the RAM...if not stronger by being shorter and more narrow reducing torsional stresses on the frame members as one flexes over obstacles ? ??
 

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While I’ve read the same things about the Ram 1500 sharing parts with the JT, I don’t believe a lot of what’s posted is correct. The current Ram 1500 is four wheel independent suspension, so it certainly doesn’t share a design with the JT. I seem to recall reading that some of the rear frame was shared with the Ram, which certainly seems possible.
 

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So, this is my experience with the JT as used for truck stuff and overland travel.

first specs: mine has a 3.5” lift of the Rubicon Express with their shocks. Faulty basic with a $1600 dollar cost… not for me, this is too light duty for a RT that sees townibgbyo max capacity as well as bed load to max capacity. After one time towing 8000 lbs (truck scale rated) the back end ended up with a sag so bad I had to remove the spring spacers.

I just finished a 3000 mile trip off roaring, overland camping in BLM and long road hauls. The springs and rear shocks are completely shot and the ride is sketchy with the back end lower than the front which takes weight off of the front making it light in the steering.

I just bought Clayton’s overland lift 3.5” with triple rate overload rear springs and double overload front springs, falcon shocks, replacement front and rear HD sway bar links. I’ve researched and this should help with my problems.

I have 37” BFG ATKOs and with 4:10 gears the JT has plenty of power ( and I’ve driven and owned 3 F-350 diesels, so have real world experience here).

on this latest trip I was searching for a BLM campsite with my girlfriend new to off road driving. We ended up on a shelf road in Utah after midnight that was super sketchy with a thousand foot cliff on the pass side and a shear wall of rock and sketchy mud support on drivers side.

I can tell you without a doubt, this narrow ledge would have not been possible with a full size truck. What that means is you would need to back down out of that situation with a full size and with that the danger increases exponentially with retreating from a situation like that.

map the JT handled this so well and it did this in 2 wheel drive (I have a limited slip in the back of my Max Tow. Combined with the traction and stability control there wasn’t any wheel slippage even on steep angled and turning inclines. My opinion… don’t need the Rubicon for its lockers. I’ve had one, and I rarely needed to use them.

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