Speaker Problem

[NateKY]

Just replaced all of my speakers tonight with JBL GX series. They draw 2.3 ohms which is less than factory. Got everything put back together and tuned it in. Sounded way better than stock. Turned the radio up to 25 and all four front speakers shut off. Roll bar is fine. I can turn the radio up to max and the roll bar speakers never shut down.

I shut the truck off for a few minutes, and then the front speakers kick back on. It’s louder at 25 than it was with factory, so I would not routinely have it that loud. Do I need an amp or is something else going on??

Sponsored

 

[Jgriffin]

Subscribed

 

[CookieSoup]

if you turn it back up do they cut out again?

 

[NateKY]

if you turn it back up do they cut out again?

Yes. If the volume is below 25ish, they stay on, but if I turn it up they eventually cut out.

 

[Alabama Mud Machine]

Yes, you need an amp. Your head unit can't push them hard enough on its own. Most head units only supply about 20-50 watts per channel...Split that in 2, and you have 10-25 watts per speaker...A set of high-quality aftermarket speakers made to handle 150+ watts are going to eat that for breakfast, and then ask for seconds... And then when you start turning up your volume to push them harder, the head unit can't keep up, because it's completely maxed-out on power to run the speakers. So when you start to crank the volume up even more, the speakers will sound like shit (static/interference sound) because the head unit is still pushing the sound signal harder, but there is no more power to push that sound signal to drive the speakers harder to keep up with the sound signal. Make sense?

Basically, your aftermarket speakers are too strong for what your head unit's internal power supply can produce beyond volume 25. Which is probably what is causing your cutting-out issue.

 

[NateKY]

Yes, you need an amp. Your head unit can't push them hard enough on its own. Most head units only supply about 20-50 watts per channel...Split that in 2, and you have 10-25 watts per speaker...A set of high-quality aftermarket speakers made to handle 150+ watts are going to eat that for breakfast, and then ask for seconds... And then when you start turning up your volume to push them harder, the head unit can't keep up, because it's completely maxed-out on power to run the speakers. So when you start to crank the volume up even more, the speakers will sound like shit (static/interference sound) because the head unit is still pushing the sound signal harder, but there is no more power to push that sound signal to drive the speakers harder to keep up with the sound signal. Make sense?

Basically, your aftermarket speakers are too strong for what your head unit's internal power supply can produce beyond volume 25. Which is probably what is causing your cutting-out issue.

Thanks. I switched the balance towards the back 2 clicks and now the front doesn’t shut off. Temporary fix while I look into getting an amp.

 

[NateKY]

On the plus side, they sound way better than stock.

 

[sass JT]

I’ve been around 12volt industry for a long time... since the big boom days... your head units amplifier is throwing its protections circuit on, due to your pushing past it’s technical limits. That’s why when you turn it up it cuts out until you restart your stereo.

Yes, you definitely need an aftermarket amp to run your speakers.

 

[hjdca]

The new speakers pull more juice from the amp and head unit. After level 25, the amp is pushing more power than its rated output at minimal distortion. As the distortion goes up, the protection circuit kicks in so the amp does not blow your speakers. The highest safe output of your system now is probably closer to 22 or 23. The closer you get to 25, the more danger to your speakers. Listen for any distortion - flabbiness, or lack of crispness.

Note: For example, a specific Amp may be rated like this -- 100w at .05% distortion, but, the power supply for that same amp will put out 200w at much higher distortion - say 6%.... Aftermarket amps usually have an "output level" screw that allows you to adjust the output to meet your Volume level knob and speaker resistance.... Look on the Gladiator amp and see if there is a level adjuster--- that may help you adjust everything by turning down the level on the amp. The amp level adjuster will not make the stereo louder, but, allows you to adjust the loudness so that it is peak with minimal distortion at full volume on the knob --- ie. Now you will get the same loudness with the dial at max that you do at 24 -- and there is no danger to your speakers or the amp cutting out.

 

[kd1yt]

2 ohms per speaker is _very_ low, at least by factory standards. Also, I haven't had the OEM speakers out of mine yet (it's in the works but need to accumulate some more parts) but very often automotive tweeters (in our case they're really just the small speakers like in the top of the dash) have a series crossover capacitor which takes them out of the circuit for lower frequencies) (and frequently woofers have lower output and rising impedance at higher frequencies, for somewhat of a crude unofficial crossover effect, taking them out of the circuit at higher frequencies). Net result is that the OE speakers, even though wired in parallel, may not really be electrically in full parallel due to the 'crossover' effect described above.

If your new speakers have a flatter impedance curve than stock (which better speakers usually would) then putting a pair of two ohm speakers in parallel at each corner will land you with a net one ohm impedance in each corner, which is really low for factory electronics and may even be low for some aftermarket amps.

If you are going amp shopping, I'd suggest to very specifically look for an amp that is rated stable into a one ohm load- maybe even (to have some margin for error) one that is rated stable into a 0.5 ohm load. Many amps behave badly if connected to a load below their rated impedance; if you are lucky, they shut down, if you are unlucky, they damage speakers.

Good luck and let us know how it goes....

 

[NateKY]

https://www.jlwranglerforums.com/forum/threads/adding-an-aftermarket-amp-s.6568/

So, I found this thread and now I’m thinking my issue may not end up being an amp.

 

[Glenn671]

https://www.jlwranglerforums.com/forum/threads/adding-an-aftermarket-amp-s.6568/

So, I found this thread and now I’m thinking my issue may not end up being an amp.

Did you end up figuring it out? My truck is at an audio shop and I think the signal shut off to the soundbar speakers.

 

[Warrcia160]

Did you end up figuring it out? My truck is at an audio shop and I think the signal shut off to the soundbar speakers.

Sound like you might have the wrong ohm load to the amp that’s why it turns off the amp then you shut it down plays for a bit then same problem

Sponsored