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Spray In Bed Liner Line-X or Rhino?

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viiiball

viiiball

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I had Line-X spray liner and UV clear coat. Really happy with the results.
The knock I’ve been reading on the Line-X is that it’s “rough”. Do you find it rough and scratchy?

Rhino is supposed to be softer but the knock on them is that application can be hit or miss depending on the vendor.
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it has a roughness - not sharp but if you were say sitting on your bare knees in the bed it wouldn't feel real comfortable - like being on a hard sand.

Some people I think like the softer slicker - as if you were hauling dirt or such I would think be easier to clean with the Rhino version. Then on the other had the Line-X is less slick and to me less prone to stuff moving around in the bed. I think the factory liner was actually a little less rough and more like you would think on an insert (not as much grit as the Line-X).

I think unless your super picky in liking a certain version I would go with the one that is most convenient or less costly in your area. I was even fine with the factory version on one I test drove - just the one I decided on didn't have that option on it. I do like the Line-X a little better (I like the added grit so not so slick or slippery if wet). I am also glad I got the UV protectant version so I don't have to worry with fading.
 

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info factory vs. Line-X from Dodge forum:

"The factory (GFX) bedliner is about 60 to 65 mils on the floor. LINE-X should be about 125 mils on the floor"
"The Dodge factory bedliner is from Ultimate Linings and applied by a company called Ground Effects, Ltd. (GFX). In June of 2012, LINE-X bought GFX, however, due to contracts that are in place, the factory bedliner will not change...for at least the time being. The factory bedliner is only about half the thickness of most aftermarket bedliners. Also, you only get a 3 yr/36K mile warranty with the factory bedliner while most aftermarket companies give you a limited lifetime warranty.

If you look at the technical data sheet for LINE-X and Rhino (Tuff Grip and Hardline), you will see that LINE-X is WAY stronger than Rhino. LINE-X has almost a third higher tear strength and a 53% higher tensile strength. If you get LINE-X Premium instead of standard black LINE-X, they will hold their color and gloss."
 

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The knock I’ve been reading on the Line-X is that it’s “rough”. Do you find it rough and scratchy?

Rhino is supposed to be softer but the knock on them is that application can be hit or miss depending on the vendor.
I have had both Rhino and Line-X and prefer the Line-X, It doesn't feel any rougher to me than the Rhino liner did.
 

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LostWoods

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If I remember correctly, Rhino feels a bit softer and is slightly grippier. Line-X ends up fairly hard but by no means would I call it rough.

If you get the bedliner after sale, a few tips:
  1. Get the rivnuts for the rails and install them in the rear. You can't add them after bedliner without cutting it and you'llI'll likely end up like me and cut your paint. Had to drill mine out and add standard rivnuts but it was an ordeal. The rails are a perfect M8 hole so you can drill them out for an appropriate rivnut like I did if you want.Let
  2. Put dummy bolts in every threaded hole (aforementioned rivnuts included) so you or the next buyer can add rails or other accessories that use them. Some caps like the RLD and most tonneau covers use the front holes and chasing all those threads will suck.
  3. Tape off the lights, don't remove them. They are not tolerant to any additional thickness so they won't click in if you remove them before applying bedliner
  4. Some have had issues with the front lower tie-downs so I'd make sure they remove them and plug the holes before spraying.
 
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@LostWoods thank you so much for this. I had anticipated the threaded hole issue but hadn't come up with a solution yet. Can i just get a collection of bolts that fit into the threaded holes and put them in before the bedliner spray? Not sure what I need to do with a rivnut.

I now understand your recommendation on the rivnuts. Get ones now in anticipation of installing rails. Then get a collection of bolts and install in all threaded holes, including rail rivnuts. Sorry, slow today.

Can I assume the vendor will tape off my lights?
 
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@LostWoods addtional questions:
  1. where do I get said rivnuts?
  2. Do you know how many are needed?
  3. And which holes do the rivnuts go in for the rail systems? I see a fair amount of non-threaded holes in the bed of the truck.
 

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@LostWoods addtional questions:
  1. where do I get said rivnuts?
  2. Do you know how many are needed?
  3. And which holes do the rivnuts go in for the rail systems? I see a fair amount of non-threaded holes in the bed of the truck.
So I'm going on a 100% assumption that all the M6 rivet nuts are the same on the truck so it would be part number 6510682AA for the rear ones that attach to the rail. If you follow the line of the threaded holes under the side rails where the trail rail system would mount (should be 4 total), there is a hexagonal hole on the rear of the bed in line with those. That is where these would mount.

You don't technically need a rivet nut tool but IMO it's $80 well spent. Astro Pneumatic makes a good set that goes up to M10 that has served me well or you can use the nut and bolt trick if you're daring. With the latter, some have spun the rivnut in the hole so there is that risk.

The power outlet holes appear to actually use a plastic nut so you're probably fine there. I'll be drilling mine out and adding rivnuts so I can make a plate that will be the ingress point for my compressor power and air lines.
 

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Wouldn't you like to know.
When I researched it appears that 1) the factory (on the window sticker) bed liner is by an outside company near the factory from what I heard 2) I had heard that the product used in the factory bed lining was similiar to Line-X but thinner coating.

I had mine done by Line-X local and they did a terrfic job. I did get the premium with the added UV protectant ($600 total). Took about 2 hours to do.

t1.jpg
Where did you get the rotopax set up from? I like it!
 

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@LostWoods thanks again. I see the holes used at the rear of the bed. Will try and get me some of the rivnuts before I do the bedliner.
 

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The rotopack is using the rotopax Toyota mount which mounts fine in the Jeep trail rail. See my post under what did you do to your gladiator for more info including need for a shorter screw then came with.
 
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Thank you everyone for you input on this. I have an appointment next week to get the Line-X done. Doing the Premium which includes the UV protection. $595 +tax.

Per @LostWoods recommendation, I installed the two rivnuts in the rear of the bed for the rail system JIC. If anyone is looking at this later, the part number for those rivnuts is 06104885AA.

Guy at the Line-X shop said not to install bolts in the threaded bed holes. He is going to fill them with tape. I have a couple of M8 bolts that I will try as soon as the bed is completed. They will tape the lights and remove and reinstall the front tie downs.

When I was at the shop yesterday they had just finished a white Gladiator Rubicon just like mine so I got to see a completed job. Looked great.
 

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The Gladiator that I am purchasing does not have the factory bed liner. My local Line-X shop quoted $469 for the standard version and an additional $150 for the extra UV protection. Living in Texas heat, I'm sure the UV coverage is worth the extra investment as I don't plan on using a cover.
 

cbl1

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The Gladiator that I am purchasing does not have the factory bed liner. My local Line-X shop quoted $469 for the standard version and an additional $150 for the extra UV protection. Living in Texas heat, I'm sure the UV coverage is worth the extra investment as I don't plan on using a cover.
My Line-X quoted me $150 extra for UVA and I mentioned I see most people say its $100 extra. And they immediately said they can do $100.
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