Start Stop unavailable, requires service after batteries replaced.

[Lunentucker]

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[Lunentucker]

I have a Tazer I use to disable it so that's not an issue, just want to avoid any future issues.

The tech came back and said the aux battery was completely dead and a bad battery. That would explain why the start/stop light was still on, but I'm not 100% sold on the explanation. It was new as of a couple weeks ago, but I guess it's theoretically possible I got a dud. Guess I'll need to pull it and take it back for a return.

The problem here is that the Tazer only stops ESS from running the cycle.
It doesn't physically break the connection between the two batteries, so they can and eventually will most likely drain one another. The odds of both batteries having exactly identical lifespans are astronomical, so some cannibalizing is all but guaranteed at some point in the future.

 

[BlackDog]

After a few days of driving all seems well except service stop/start is still persistent.

Voltage check question: When I remove the aux neg cable and check the aux voltage, it reads about 12V (my meter is analog, not digital.) The main battery is about 13V. Does 12V for aux seem right, accounting for some drop off since testing through cables? Or does that still seem low and perhaps point to a bad battery?

 

[ShadowsPapa]

Part of the problem is that last sentence. How are folks supposed to know what "should have" been done? It's not in the manual and it seems dealership service departments are unaware, too (in my experience.) Now that I know, I know. But only because I ran into an issue when I hastily installed a new battery while trying to get on the road and started looking online for answers afterwards. The information you share here is invaluable and I thank you for it.

As for my situation, I charged each battery separately last night and pulled the IBS. Everything went back together this morning and I'll see how it runs. Hopefully that aux battery isn't shot and it holds its charge.

It's been that way since forever, but no one passed the word along to kids because everyone said uncle bubba just slapped batteries in and it was ok.

Way back when I started in the 1970s working in a former AMC shop - prep battery, charge battery, install battery.
Today - it's that plus - reset IBS.
It's in the tech documents............ but...............
I guess they assume only mechanics and techs will be doing battery changes - or others will rely on the parts store staff knowing LOL - I wouldn't trust most of them to operate a volt meter.
When I went to college for auto tech, there were courses for parts counter people -yes, college courses - community colleges, grant you that, but still........... they were trained.
Today you walk out of McDonalds and start your new job at O'Reilly's or Advance Auto or whatever.

 

[PsyRN]

After a few days of driving all seems well except service stop/start is still persistent.

Voltage check question: When I remove the aux neg cable and check the aux voltage, it reads about 12V (my meter is analog, not digital.) The main battery is about 13V. Does 12V for aux seem right, accounting for some drop off since testing through cables? Or does that still seem low and perhaps point to a bad battery?

Following. My light came on too. Checked both batteries, 12.6v each. Checked the alternator, 14.3v while running. Fuse seems fine.

when I had them disconnected for a bit while moving some ground terminals off the main battery and to the body, it seemed like it reset. Light was off for about a day, then came back on.

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