Need Help, replaced batteries and wont start. Can't find problem after 2 days of trouble shooting

[HD676]

Where was the buzzing noise coming from that you described? That does not seem normal to me. Also, did you only disconnect the main battery for 15 minutes until the sound stopped? Or both batteries? If you oniy disconnected the main battery then the source of the “buzzing” sound could have continued to receive power from the aux battery until it was discharged.

Did you disconnect each individual lead from the end of the fuse block? Or leave them connected and just disconnect the plugs on the bottom?

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[Bandit’s Lair]

I had that beep as well. Long sustained beep sounded like from the back of the engine bay behind the fuse box area. It eventually went off but it was slightly concerning. Think “Mission Impossible this message will self destruct in however many seconds.”

 

[Sublime]

I had that beep as well. Long sustained beep sounded like from the back of the engine bay behind the fuse box area. It eventually went off but it was slightly concerning. Think “Mission Impossible this message will self destruct in however many seconds.”

Yes exactly

 

[Sublime]

Where was the buzzing noise coming from that you described? That does not seem normal to me. Also, did you only disconnect the main battery for 15 minutes until the sound stopped? Or both batteries? If you oniy disconnected the main battery then the source of the “buzzing” sound could have continued to receive power from the aux battery until it was discharged.

Did you disconnect each individual lead from the end of the fuse block? Or leave them connected and just disconnect the plugs on the bottom?

Last night i disconnected each lead to the fuse box to remove the Z array.

 

[Sublime]

I just came here to say that it's a good thing you replaced the auxiliary battery. It's what keeps the sensitive electronics stable.

Good luck!

With all the issues i proceeded to remove the aux battery to reduce possible issues. Followed the process of disconnecting the ground from the main battery and puled fuse 42. No change to any of my issues. SInce then i have now completely removed the Aux batter from the engine bay.

 

[Sublime]

IMO, an AGM battery at 12.48V is just under 80% state of charge which should be plenty to get your Jeep to start and run. Not saying it's not worth your time charging the batteries, but I don't believe that in and of itself is the cause of your problems here.

Regarding the lights on the ignition switch not coming on: if you have power locks, do they respond and function normally to inputs from your key fob? Are you absolutely certain you're getting power through N1 at the PDC? Are you absolutely certain you're getting power through fuse 10 in the PDC?

I'll have to check the fob. I had thought maybe that was an issue but didn't get the message on the dash. I'm pretty sure i tried to lock the doors but i'll have to double check. However i have tried touching the fob to the start button and no luck.

For fuse 10 I did not pull that fuse. I tested all fuses with a multi meter for continuity and all were good but i'll pull fuse 10 tonight to double check.

 

[Lunentucker]

With all the issues i proceeded to remove the aux battery to reduce possible issues. Followed the process of disconnecting the ground from the main battery and puled fuse 42. No change to any of my issues. SInce then i have now completely removed the Aux batter from the engine bay.

Good. My previous comment was 100 percent sarcasm, parroting the several AUX battery defenders here. The idiocy of relying upon a likely to fail lawn mower battery to "keep sensitive electronics stable during ESS events" knows few parallels. LOL

 

[DylanM]

I'll have to check the fob. I had thought maybe that was an issue but didn't get the message on the dash. I'm pretty sure i tried to lock the doors but i'll have to double check. However i have tried touching the fob to the start button and no luck.

For fuse 10 I did not pull that fuse. I tested all fuses with a multi meter for continuity and all were good but i'll pull fuse 10 tonight to double check.

Don't pull the fuse, check it while installed with a meter or a trouble light to see if you have power going through it.

The thought I have going is the lack of lights coming on in your ignition switch (KIN) may indicate that you aren't getting power to it, or that it isn't getting woken up by the action of opening the door/pushing the brake pedal/etc. Power for the KIN comes from fuse 10, which also powers the RF hub. The RF hub is the part that picks up the signal from your key fob when you stand outside and remotely lock/unlock the doors, and it's also what directly controls and communicates with the KIN.

 

[Lost1wing]

This is a 2020 fuse array. Yours should be the same. If you moved or crossed one of these cables, it could be a problem.

As far as trouble shooting goes, always go back to the items that were messed with. I understand that you may have had a an issue with a buzzing noise. If this was a relay, I would be concerned of it potentially being a new problem.

You replaced the Aux going from top down. I would at least go back that far and verify the fuse panel is plugged in all of the way. Look at your relays closely for burn marks. Take some pics so you can zoom in close. With your fuse array, I would verify that each one is on the correct terminal.

Post a couple of pics, maybe someone else can spot something out of the norm.

 

[Sublime]

This is a 2020 fuse array. Yours should be the same. If you moved or crossed one of these cables, it could be a problem.

As far as trouble shooting goes, always go back to the items that were messed with. I understand that you may have had a an issue with a buzzing noise. If this was a relay, I would be concerned of it potentially being a new problem.

You replaced the Aux going from top down. I would at least go back that far and verify the fuse panel is plugged in all of the way. Look at your relays closely for burn marks. Take some pics so you can zoom in close. With your fuse array, I would verify that each one is on the correct terminal.

Post a couple of pics, maybe someone else can spot something out of the norm.

Yeah the fuse array is what i pulled last night. All tested good. I did go top down again and looked for bent pins, broken pins. Made sure the bolts were tightened for the fuse box wire harnesses under the fuses.

I can start posting some pics for reference.

 

[Sublime]

Don't pull the fuse, check it while installed with a meter or a trouble light to see if you have power going through it.

The thought I have going is the lack of lights coming on in your ignition switch (KIN) may indicate that you aren't getting power to it, or that it isn't getting woken up by the action of opening the door/pushing the brake pedal/etc. Power for the KIN comes from fuse 10, which also powers the RF hub. The RF hub is the part that picks up the signal from your key fob when you stand outside and remotely lock/unlock the doors, and it's also what directly controls and communicates with the KIN.

I only mentioned pulling the fuse since i had already checked the continuity of all the normal fuses. Either way i will double check and play with the FOB tonight.

Thanks everyone for you help so far. Double and triple checking everything at this point.

 

[Sublime]

SUCCESS!

Got home and doubke checked fuse 10 for continuity and all good. So next was to use a code reader. So had to connect the battery again. Was also ready to test key fob and take pictures of dash etc. We'll got in and had lights like I had. Took video of radio starting up amd then go to black screen like it had. Pushed button and HOLY CRAP it started.

So the last thing I had done after I pulled the Z array to test. Once that was confirmed I checked all the reolays. Then I found a video that showed some dude pushing every fuse down in the tray to make sure it was seated 100 % none were that bad but a couple did give a little when I pushed them down. This is the only thing I can seem to have done to fix hit.

Well now that I have bypassed the aux battery I hope to never have to pull that tray up again. Honestly I think I'll tell the WAY OF LIFE due to take down his video. Wheel well would be thee best and only option to replace the aux for whoever retains it.

Thank you all again for your help trying to confirm what I've checked and gave different ideas. You all rock.

 

[Bandit’s Lair]

Good. My previous comment was 100 percent sarcasm, parroting the several AUX battery defenders here. The idiocy of relying upon a likely to fail lawn mower battery to "keep sensitive electronics stable during ESS events" knows few parallels. LOL

It’s even smaller than I thought it would be. (That’s what she said) I can’t see a battery that size lasting very long.

 

[MrZappo]

It’s even smaller than I thought it would be. (That’s what she said) I can’t see a battery that size lasting very long.

The size has nothing to do with how long it will last. I'm not a defender but it does just keep the electronics stable during start stop events. It's an agm battery just like any other with a normal lifespan.

Mine lasted exactly as long as my main and the second set of both are going strong as they are for most of the people that don't mess with them.

Again not a defender but so much misinformation goes around.

The system generally works fine. And I hate hate hate the start stop nonsense. And I tend to disable it. But it works weather indo or not and for the majority of people who don't eff with it, it works fine.

Now, the prices dealers charge to change the batteries is another thing altogether.

That's a scam. But it takes under an hour to do it yourself. So, have at it.

 

[The Yeti]

I just replaced my batteries (both), Aux through the fender well. I'll leave the delete debate for another thread, I'm still within an extended warranty n need to hang on to a thread of hope just in case when I argue with them on things, but I'm gona go out on a limb and say something wasn't right with the connections under the fuse box or 'power panel' or whatever TF they wana call it. I saw the way you're supposed to replace it from up top and thought nope. First Jeep and found out real quick (even when I had never removed the doors and had a dealer issue of playing the blame game amd looked myself) they use cheap pins that bend easy or can get 'adjusted' accidentally and not align 100% and cause issues so removing 4 plugs under the fise box that probably have similar pins in -40 was not a consideration for me. Even if it was middle of summer I wouldn't have gone that route. Pretty simple doing it from the RH wheel well just a little awkward is all. Im guessing pressing down on those fuses seated things a little better. If you have any weird issues in the future I would check that first.
To ad, for what it's worth I have no formal education and am far from a journeyman mechanic but this is my educated guess from my couch right now after reading some of this thread.

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