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Swapping LCA as a novice

Badunit

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Reading here that it can be done one at a time with the wheels on the ground, I would have done mine that way. I did mine with the wheels slightly off the ground and a jack under the pumpkin to make adjustments to line up the bolts.

An impact wrench (Milwaukee 2767) made easy work of the 145 degrees after torquing to 103 ft lb. It is hard to get yourself behind a torque wrench or breaker bar when the vehicle is on the ground and you're laying on the ground under it. I marked the nuts and the bolts with a sharpie before using the impact to be sure only the bolts turned.

I don't know why Jeep didn't use the longer arms in the first place. It definitely tracks better.
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RedWire75

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Just a follow up, I got the last stubborn bolt to 190 ft/lbs the next day. Got in a longer drive today and the Jeep is driving and tracking SO much better. Is it a sports car now? No and it’s not supposed to be. However, the difference is noticeable (to me) and worth the time, money, and most of all, effort.
 

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When I went on my first long "test" drive I meant to pay attention the difference the whole time as I covered various road conditions but I kept zoning out because I wasn't having to intently watch the road like I did before. That was all the proof I needed.
 

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So I assume those who added the longer Mopar LCAs had a front level done? I thought adding these with out a level up front was not a good idea?
 
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RedWire75

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So I assume those who added the longer Mopar LCAs had a front level done? I thought adding these with out a level up front was not a good idea?
Nope. Stock Mojave. Since the Rubicon and Mojave are lifted vs the other trims but use the same LCA the extended LCAs return caster to 6ish degrees. My understanding is the other trims are already in the high 5 to low 6 degrees caster range.

Seems though you have an HA so you’d likely not want to install these without a corresponding lift. They’d likely push you over 7 degrees and then you need to be concerned with the pinion.

Of course this is all from what I’ve read here and on the JL forum posted by people who are smarter than I am. If I’m incorrect please let me know.
 

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I'm going to be doing this tomorrow. Is it acceptable to use a pipe to extend the torque wrench so you can get more leverage?
 

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I'm going to be doing this tomorrow. Is it acceptable to use a pipe to extend the torque wrench so you can get more leverage?
Well, I bailed on this. I couldn't even get one of the bolts loose with my impact wrench. So out of curiosity, I set my torque wrench to 190 to see if I could get a click, no dice. I looked up the specs on my impact wrench and it supposed to be able to break 300 ft/lbs. So, I'm just really concerned. I don't want to get half way through and have the ass end of my truck hanging out of the garage.

Thoughts and advice are welcome.
 
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RedWire75

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Well, I bailed on this. I couldn't even get one of the bolts loose with my impact wrench. So out of curiosity, I set my torque wrench to 190 to see if I could get a click, no dice. I looked up the specs on my impact wrench and it supposed to be able to break 300 ft/lbs. So, I'm just really concerned. I don't want to get half way through and have the ass end of my truck hanging out of the garage.

Thoughts and advice are welcome.
I did the whole thing with hand tools so it is possible but it is a bear. To get most of the bolts started I had to lift the breaker bar with my floor jack. Slowly. Probably a terrible idea but it was my only option. I’m not sure an impact only rated for 300 ft/lbs breakaway would get there.

190 ft/lbs is also possible but it was only really, really bad on the rear bolts on each side. Just a leverage issue. Use an extension to get the wrench outside the body for better leverage. The front two were just really bad.

Honestly, when I said it took every ounce of strength I had that wasn't an exaggeration. It’s not impossible. I’m not in the best shape and I got it done but it beat me up.
 

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So I assume those who added the longer Mopar LCAs had a front level done? I thought adding these with out a level up front was not a good idea?
I originally discovered the benefit of the Mopar LCAs a couple years ago. My wife has a 20 JLU and it suffered from the wandering issue that many of the JL models had.
Prior to the discovery and subsequent replacement of the aluminum gearbox by Jeep, a lot of folks in the Wrangler forums were recommending the Mopar LCAs as a fix. Seems the JL, and the JT, are a bit low on the caster side from the factory. Several there used the LCAs to get the caster more around 6 and thus helped with the wander.
So to more directly answer your question, no you do not have to lift or level when adding the Mopar LCAs. They will increase the caster, add more stability, and still be within an acceptable range.
 

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Must be a Milwaukee.
Yes, you are correct. M18 2850-20. Does that rating not translate to being able to break loose something that is supposed to be torqued to 190?

I did the whole thing with hand tools so it is possible but it is a bear. To get most of the bolts started I had to lift the breaker bar with my floor jack. Slowly. Probably a terrible idea but it was my only option. I’m not sure an impact only rated for 300 ft/lbs breakaway would get there.

190 ft/lbs is also possible but it was only really, really bad on the rear bolts on each side. Just a leverage issue. Use an extension to get the wrench outside the body for better leverage. The front two were just really bad.

Honestly, when I said it took every ounce of strength I had that wasn't an exaggeration. It’s not impossible. I’m not in the best shape and I got it done but it beat me up.
I'm pretty fit, but I'm not be biggest fella (5'4", 145). I don't know that I'd be able to generate enough force to get it torque down unless I can get my body weight on it.

How in the world do you get the extension outside the body? Are you using a universal joint or something?
 
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RedWire75

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Jimko71

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I originally discovered the benefit of the Mopar LCAs a couple years ago. My wife has a 20 JLU and it suffered from the wandering issue that many of the JL models had.
Prior to the discovery and subsequent replacement of the aluminum gearbox by Jeep, a lot of folks in the Wrangler forums were recommending the Mopar LCAs as a fix. Seems the JL, and the JT, are a bit low on the caster side from the factory. Several there used the LCAs to get the caster more around 6 and thus helped with the wander.
So to more directly answer your question, no you do not have to lift or level when adding the Mopar LCAs. They will increase the caster, add more stability, and still be within an acceptable range.
So you added these without any lift or front end level?
 

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So you added these without any lift or front end level?
On my JT I have the 1.5 level.
On my wife’s JLU, yes I added them with no lift or level.
 
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RedWire75

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Yes, you are correct. M18 2850-20. Does that rating not translate to being able to break loose something that is supposed to be torqued to 190?



I'm pretty fit, but I'm not be biggest fella (5'4", 145). I don't know that I'd be able to generate enough force to get it torque down unless I can get my body weight on it.

How in the world do you get the extension outside the body? Are you using a universal joint or something?
Long enough (or multiple extensions) will clear the body on the rear bolts. Not the front ones though. Those weren’t the problem ones anyway. The front one I could get decent leverage from in front of the bumper.
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