Tell me about tie rods

[WILDHOBO]

Yes

and only if I hit a bump

I had the same thing happen on my 37’s right after they and the lift were installed. It was purely tire pressure. I talked to Mickey Thomson and they recommended a drastically different pressure. Issue solved.

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[kooltoys]

Comment about caster - I have a Mojave with AEV 2” lift and Rancho geometry brackets on the middle hole. My caster is 7.0* and it is perfect.

Cheers

Mine is close to 8 with AEV brackets and lca. I have nvr had DW. I drive it like a race car!

 

[Orange01z28]

I had the same thing happen on my 37’s right after they and the lift were installed. It was purely tire pressure. I talked to Mickey Thomson and they recommended a drastically different pressure. Issue solved.

Cool, i'll hit up Milestar

 

[WILDHOBO]

Cool, i'll hit up Milestar

I really questioned it, as I was running mine at 35, and the wobble would happen between 31 and 34. They recommended 27 cold very strongly. It’s perfect now. I hadn’t thought about the fact that the OE Falkens we’re load C and these are load D. So lower pressure makes sense. But I’d check with milestar for yours as each tire is different.

 

[Orange01z28]

Sweet. That seems really low but the manufacturer knows best

Glad it fixed you up

 

[WILDHOBO]

Sweet. That seems really low but the manufacturer knows best

Glad it fixed you up

It did to me as well, but D has stronger sidewalls and they run very quiet and flat now. They were ballooned a bit when above 30. I do increase the rears only when towing to 33-34, which works well.

 

[Mxjunky9]

It did to me as well, but D has stronger sidewalls and they run very quiet and flat now. They were ballooned a bit when above 30. I do increase the rears only when towing to 33-34, which works well.

Tell me a little more about what yours was doing please. I’m fighting what started out as a slight wobble/shimmy of the steering wheel between 40-45 and 50-55 mph. Now it has gotten to where when I hit a bump at those speeds it will wobble a little more aggressive back and forth about 5-6 times. Almost like the start of death wobble. I have Mickey Baja Boss tires also. Seems to be ok below and above those speeds

 

[WILDHOBO]

Tell me a little more about what yours was doing please. I’m fighting what started out as a slight wobble/shimmy of the steering wheel between 40-45 and 50-55 mph. Now it has gotten to where when I hit a bump at those speeds it will wobble a little more aggressive back and forth about 5-6 times. Almost like the start of death wobble. I have Mickey Baja Boss tires also. Seems to be ok below and above those speeds

I had the IDENTICAL wheel wobble at the same speed range. You could drive through it and it would go away at higher speeds. I had places check balance. They were fine. MT told me NOT to use road force balancing on those tires btw, which I didn’t. But I might have tri d it if they hadn’t said it. I took their advice to lower my cold PSI to 27, and I’ve been very happy. At ultra cold temps like this week, I might get a TINY shimmy only during the first 2 minutes of driving. Then they warm up and they’re perfect again.

 

[Mxjunky9]

I had the IDENTICAL wheel wobble at the same speed range. You could drive through it and it would go away at higher speeds. I had places check balance. They were fine. MT told me NOT to use road force balancing on those tires btw, which I didn’t. But I might have tri d it if they hadn’t said it. I took their advice to lower my cold PSI to 27, and I’ve been very happy. At ultra cold temps like this week, I might get a TINY shimmy only during the first 2 minutes of driving. Then they warm up and they’re perfect again.

Thanks for the reply. I’m already at 27-28 psi so I guess that won’t help me much ? I got rid of the shimmy in the wheel when I replaced my drag link and tie rod but the steering wheel wobble 5 or 6 times when I hit a bump didn’t go away. Think my next step is rebalancing and alignment then go from there. Thanks again !!!

 

[Orange01z28]

Thanks for the reply. I’m already at 27-28 psi so I guess that won’t help me much ? I got rid of the shimmy in the wheel when I replaced my drag link and tie rod but the steering wheel wobble 5 or 6 times when I hit a bump didn’t go away. Think my next step is rebalancing and alignment then go from there. Thanks again !!!

Your tires might do better aired up higher

My shimmy/wobble was still pretty bad even after a rebalance. I put on a new track bar and it cleaned it up a little more, then I aired up my tires to like 35 psi cold and it got better yet.

But what fixed it the most was going to get a real alignment.. What used to turn into a wobble only results in a slight shimmy now

I had bought a new drag link and tie rod but I haven't gotten around to putting it on yet; i'm still going to do it but i'm in good shape right now

And my local 4WP is one of the good ones so paying $135 for an alignment is worth it to me

 

[WILDHOBO]

Thanks for the reply. I’m already at 27-28 psi so I guess that won’t help me much ? I got rid of the shimmy in the wheel when I replaced my drag link and tie rod but the steering wheel wobble 5 or 6 times when I hit a bump didn’t go away. Think my next step is rebalancing and alignment then go from there. Thanks again !!!

You’re at the right pressure then, per the manufacturer. What’s your full front end setup? For comparison, mine is as follows: JKS 3” lift springs, fox 2.0 shocks, yeti Steersmarts sector shaft brace/track bar bracket, yeti tie rod and drag links, Yeti track bar, and yeti steering stabilizer, top mounted.

 

[Mxjunky9]

Your tires might do better aired up higher

My shimmy/wobble was still pretty bad even after a rebalance. I put on a new track bar and it cleaned it up a little more, then I aired up my tires to like 35 psi cold and it got better yet.

But what fixed it the most was going to get a real alignment.. What used to turn into a wobble only results in a slight shimmy now

I had bought a new drag link and tie rod but I haven't gotten around to putting it on yet; i'm still going to do it but i'm in good shape right now

And my local 4WP is one of the good ones so paying $135 for an alignment is worth it to me

getting tires balanced tomorrow and then will get an alignment if that does help out much. If neither of those help out ball joints will probably be next after that.

 

[Mxjunky9]

You’re at the right pressure then, per the manufacturer. What’s your full front end setup? For comparison, mine is as follows: JKS 3” lift springs, fox 2.0 shocks, yeti Steersmarts sector shaft brace/track bar bracket, yeti tie rod and drag links, Yeti track bar, and yeti steering stabilizer, top mounted.

Metalcloak Gamechanger 3.5” lift, Yeti drag link, Yeti tie rod, steer smarts sector shaft brace. Stock steering stabilizer but top mounted. Will upgrade this after I figure out my problem. Don’t want stabilizer masking my problem. Going get tires balanced and an alignment and if that don’t do it then I’ll probably do ball joints next. I’m at 50k so ik they will need to be changed soon anyway.

 

[Andy29847]

Some cases of shake/wheel wobble happen because a wheel (or wheels) is not centered. This happens with aftermarket wheels that are lug centric, i.e., the center hole of the wheel is bigger than the centering reference of the hub. The most common scenario for this is a tire jockey setting a wheel on the lugs and tightening the first lug nut down with an impact wrench. I lug hole will not center the wheel. I had this problem with my Wrangler. I permanently solved it by installing hub centric adapters.

Here is how you should mount your aftermarket rims, after a rotation, new rims or tires, or a good old cleaning

1. Jack car up and secure it with a jack stand (Safety First )
2. Loosen all lug nuts and either put on rim, rotate or whatever the hell you need to do.
3. Thread on all the lug nuts, but DO NOT tighten to where you can not move them.
4. Rotate the tire/rim until one of the 5 lugs is at the 12 o clock position.
5. Tighten lug nut with thumb and forefinger to the point that you can not do it anymore.
6. Rotate the tire clockwise, skipping one lug nut.
7. After skipping the one nut, put the 3rd nut in the 12 o clock position. Tighten this one the same as Step 5
8. Skip one more nut, and repeat Step 5. This last nut will be right next to the first one.
9. Let the truck down to where the tires barely touch the ground. Use a wrench and tighten all bolts with about 25% of your strength. Just enough to grab.
10. I then let the truck down all the way and torqued the bolts to 90.
11. Repeat all steps above for the rest of the truck and throw a couple of beers in there

 

[WILDHOBO]

Some cases of shake/wheel wobble happen because a wheel (or wheels) is not centered. This happens with aftermarket wheels that are lug centric, i.e., the center hole of the wheel is bigger than the centering reference of the hub. The most common scenario for this is a tire jockey setting a wheel on the lugs and tightening the first lug nut down with an impact wrench. I lug hole will not center the wheel. I had this problem with my Wrangler. I permanently solved it by installing hub centric adapters.

Here is how you should mount your aftermarket rims, after a rotation, new rims or tires, or a good old cleaning

1. Jack car up and secure it with a jack stand (Safety First )
2. Loosen all lug nuts and either put on rim, rotate or whatever the hell you need to do.
3. Thread on all the lug nuts, but DO NOT tighten to where you can not move them.
4. Rotate the tire/rim until one of the 5 lugs is at the 12 o clock position.
5. Tighten lug nut with thumb and forefinger to the point that you can not do it anymore.
6. Rotate the tire clockwise, skipping one lug nut.
7. After skipping the one nut, put the 3rd nut in the 12 o clock position. Tighten this one the same as Step 5
8. Skip one more nut, and repeat Step 5. This last nut will be right next to the first one.
9. Let the truck down to where the tires barely touch the ground. Use a wrench and tighten all bolts with about 25% of your strength. Just enough to grab.
10. I then let the truck down all the way and torqued the bolts to 90.
11. Repeat all steps above for the rest of the truck and throw a couple of beers in there

Good tips if they’ve got lug centric wheels. Mine are hub centric though, but I still follow strict mounting procedures, and do my own.

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