The 3.6 Tick Bites Trail Recon at 31,000 Miles

[Charles 236]

Yeah and I think all sane persons on this board would agree that a "dry run test" is oxymoronical. In other words, it will fail in all circumstances so it is not proving anything.

Of course it will fail. My sanity is intact, I just hated to replace a running engine.

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[Hootbro]

Hootbro, did you watch Papa's video? Note the part where the guy measures the temps and grudgingly admits that it might actually be working - hahaha, ..also, there are 30M of us that continue to use the product worldwide. FInally, yes, its on its 4th formulation...that is called progress and product development...I'm curious; are you still using regular engine oil or have you gone to synthetic? It is 2025 and just for fun, see if there are any subsequent FTC issues once they settled in 1 9 9 7 ( almost 3 decades ago ) for tootin their own horn a bit too much for the FTC's liking - which is a characteristic on almost all advertising DUT? Get back to us on a few of those asks while I try to find a commercial engine builder that swears by the stuff k?

It is a "Warm Fuzzy" in a can product. I get the schtick they are putting out and to be upfront, I ran the original stuff in the late 1980's in a Toyota pickup that could have run on vegetable oil if push came to shove but I saw nothing to it other than the mental feint it gave me thinking I was playing engineer.

As to 30 million users, well that really does not prove anything other than marketing works. What I would like to see is some actual engineering study from a reputable company like Southwest Research Institute or similar that reinforces the claims Slick 50 currently makes and then I will get on the bus with pom poms cheering it's greatness. But in the meantime, anybody that wants to recommend this product in the course of the current discussion as a remedy for the cam tick issues the Pentastar has, I am going to push back on that.

 

[WK2JT]

Man, I go wheeling for half a day and come back to 4 extra pages to this thread all about slick 50.

 

[Charles 236]

It gets even better, also re-engineering the oiling system.

 

[Stan H]

Well, what is really getting me is ..I have had one tick bite and maybe had 2 but exactly how did you figure 3.6 tick bites .
I hope you used a tick removal tool, and It probably would be advisable to get a Lyme disease test .

 

[ShadowsPapa]

Well, what is really getting me is ..I have had one tick bite and maybe had 2 but exactly how did you figure 3.6 tick bites .
I hope you used a tick removal tool, and It probably would be advisable to get a Lyme disease test .

So if your 3.6 gets a tick, we have to worry about key lime disease?

 

[Stan H]

I equate it to "What came first, chicken or the egg". Did the cam wipe the rocker arm or the rocker arm wipe the cam? Not saying they are wrong but do we know they are right? I throw their speculation on the pile with all the other theories.

I go with this theory @Hootbro Because I got 125k now on mine and no tick. He did say one thing in the video that sparked my curiosity . He ( the mechanic) said it depended upon the load placed on the engine. Then the owner says he drives in plenty of dusty situations( sand) .
I offer up yet a few worthless theories .
I know I am gonna get smacked for this .
But I offer up merely as theoretical possibilities .
1. Could these engines need a longer break in than whatvis assumed that they need ? Could the load placed on them need to be more gradual through the first few thousand miles.?
2. Could it simply be environmental
Could it be for example where that guy rolls I know is AZ and CA etc... I have watched several of his videos..
I have always had mine in cooler climate.
3. Could it be Air cleaners ??

I drove mine very easy for most of the first 30k of the engine .

 

[Stan H]

So if your 3.6 gets a tick, we have to worry about key lime disease?

I love key lime

 

[Hootbro]

I go with this theory @Hootbro Because I got 125k now on mine and no tick. He did say one thing in the video that sparked my curiosity . He ( the mechanic) said it depended upon the load placed on the engine. Then the owner says he drives in plenty of dusty situations( sand) .
I offer up yet a few worthless theories .
I know I am gonna get smacked for this .
But I offer up merely as theoretical possibilities .
1. Could these engines need a longer break in than whatvis assumed that they need ? Could the load placed on them need to be more gradual through the first few thousand miles.?
2. Could it simply be environmental
Could it be for example where that guy rolls I know is AZ and CA etc... I have watched several of his videos..
I have always had mine in cooler climate.
3. Could it be Air cleaners ??

I drove mine very easy for most of the first 30k of the engine .

Google "Chaos Theory" because that is basically where we are at.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

As to 30 million users,

maybe 30 million bottles sold over the decades, but since they aren't tracking user registrations and serial numbers - could be 30 people have each used 1 million bottles for all we know.

But I offer up merely as theoretical possibilities .
1. Could these engines need a longer break in than whatvis assumed that they need ? Could the load placed on them need to be more gradual through the first few thousand miles.?
2. Could it simply be environmental
Could it be for example where that guy rolls I know is AZ and CA etc... I have watched several of his videos..
I have always had mine in cooler climate.
3. Could it be Air cleaners ??

All anyone can do for the most part is offer up theories.........
As far as "break-in"...........
Rods, mains, rings, it's a matter of further "wear-in" where the final high spots wear off. That's why varied speed, RPM and load is important.
I do wonder about the valve train in such engines, though.
A typical flat tappet cam (hydraulic, non-roller lifters) are "burnished" in sort of like ring and pinion gears. The lifters spin as they are moved, the wiping action removes microscopic high spots and they "wear in", and are burnished, sort of polished, in the process.
These - if they are babied, does that high lift center part get to properly get broken in with the cam lobes?
I'm just tossing out mud here - but it makes me wonder if a person should maybe take a new 3.6 out and within reason, keep that RPM up here and there, make it jump over 3,000 RPM here and there.
I'm sort of torn because some cam makers say "break-in is required for new cam and lifters" and yet many people, even myself, have installed new cams and lifters and simply taken the car out and driven it - following the ring break-in processes in the books I have.
Some racers swap cams and lifters and then just get in and GO.

 

[ShadowsPapa]

Google "Chaos Theory" because that is basically where we are at.

Great, blame the butterfly?

 

[Hootbro]

Great, blame the butterfly?

Something has to take the blame.

 

[StevieY1]

It is a "Warm Fuzzy" in a can product. I get the schtick they are putting out and to be upfront, I ran the original stuff in the late 1980's in a Toyota pickup that could have run on vegetable oil if push came to shove but I saw nothing to it other than the mental feint it gave me thinking I was playing engineer.

As to 30 million users, well that really does not prove anything other than marketing works. What I would like to see is some actual engineering study from a reputable company like Southwest Research Institute or similar that reinforces the claims Slick 50 currently makes and then I will get on the bus with pom poms cheering it's greatness. But in the meantime, anybody that wants to recommend this product in the course of the current discussion as a remedy for the cam tick issues the Pentastar has, I am going to push back on that.

ya didn't answer yet if you've gone to synthetic Hoots - that would seem to be a huge jump for ya

 

[ShadowsPapa]

ya didn't answer yet if you've gone to synthetic Hoots - that would seem to be a huge jump for ya

synthetic is still petroleum based - unless you use the natural gas stuff from Pennzoil.
it's just been "manipulated" differently. It comes out of the ground like the other.


There's also this on my shelves -

 

[StevieY1]

But now it touts CERAMIC!

Here's a little AI Overview for y'all:

Question - Is Boron Nitride considered a Ceramic?

Answer - Yes, boron nitride is considered a ceramic. It is a synthetic ceramic material aviailable in solid and powder forms, known for its unique properties like high heat capacity, thermal conductivity and machinability. Specifically, boron nitride ceramics are used in high-temperature equipment and metal casting due to their thermal and chemical stability.

So, to sum it up for ya Papa. When they added Boron Nitride to the formula they properly also described it as CERAMIC. I see ya swapped out the gun totin' Kitty! Nice!

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