Kirk_Dirksen
Well-Known Member
- First Name
- Tony
- Joined
- Nov 15, 2020
- Threads
- 6
- Messages
- 47
- Reaction score
- 108
- Location
- California
- Vehicle(s)
- 2021 Gladiator Sport
- Thread starter
- #1
Hi All.
Disclaimer up top: First time installing a car audio setup. I’m sure I made mistakes and also I’ll admit I know nothing about the specs. I know I’m within power ratings and nothing will harm my vehicle or the audio equipment based on the amount of research I did beforehand. But I probably won‘t be able to answer any questions regarding the math or anything lol.
Also, shoutout to TewlTalk and his write up on his install. I used a lot of his information to hook things up and make my buying decisions.
That being said! I am pretty proud/happy with the results and maybe it will help someone else pull the trigger. Plenty of photos ahead!
——————-
So I knew i did not want to cut into anything or remove anything major in order to get some extra bass in my truck. Nor did I want to replace the head unit.
Here are a list of the products/equipment I used:
- Skar Audio 800w amp: 800w Amp
- Skar Audio 6.5” subs: Subs
- Skar Audio 4 gauge wiring kit: wires
- Kicker LOC line output converter: LOC
- Ferrule cable ends: Kit
-Sound Mekanix Speaker Terminal: eBay link here
I ran the power wire along the firewall and used an existing bolt hole under the hood padding piece in the corner to secure the wire near the battery.
I then ran the power wire through the rubber gasket near the brake master cylinder. I drilled a hole and inserted a grommet and ran the cable through.
I ran the power cable under the dash and behind the center console, under the passenger side of the center console and pulled it out under the front passenger seat.
I removed the passenger front seat and used an existing ground bolt for my amplifier which is under the passenger seat. See my post here for more pics on that.
From the amplifier I ran the RCAs up the B pillar on the passenger side to a Line output converter (LOC) that was installed behind the seat belt within that plastic housing. See Tewltalk‘s (@Brfertig) post here.
The speaker wire that would hook up to the subs was run along the channel on the floor and popped out underneath this metal bracket that you will see when you flip up your passenger side rear seat:
Onto the box!
I wanted it to fit under the longer side of the rear seat. But wanted to keep the space under the shorter side of the seat as storage.
Again I measure from floor to base of the seat at it‘s tallest and then the toward the base at the bottom of our seats slope.
A wedge box was in order. I guess I should say here I’ve never built a box of any kind either haha. See pics below.
Project manager ^
Notice the bolt housing!^
Once I got everything together the holes were cut for the subs and the speaker wire connector.
The speakers just barely clear the factory floor mats but they do and that is what‘s important. Also the box was made as long as possible to just avoid that corner of the floor mat as well.
Once the fit was correct and I tested the subs to make sure my wiring was all correct (big moment of relief there!) I removed the left speaker in order to drill a hole and reinstall the factory bolt to the floor mount. Hopefully this will slow down thieves when I have the doors removed haha!
The speakers sound awesome! Not winning any contests but I like mostly hardcore music, pop, dance stuff and occasional rap/hip-hop. They fit the bill perfect. Quick punchy hits. Nice sustained notes. Also I can turn down the bass on my head unit to allow my highs and mids to play louder and cleanly, while I adjust the remote bass knob that came with the amp to turn up the subs where I want them.
They will mostly live under my dog’s seat cover haha
I’d be happy to answer any questions about the process or provide additional pics if someone needs something.
(Also the pictures are huge but when I posted them smaller they were rotated?? Not sure but sorry for the heavy pic downloading)
Cheers!
Disclaimer up top: First time installing a car audio setup. I’m sure I made mistakes and also I’ll admit I know nothing about the specs. I know I’m within power ratings and nothing will harm my vehicle or the audio equipment based on the amount of research I did beforehand. But I probably won‘t be able to answer any questions regarding the math or anything lol.
Also, shoutout to TewlTalk and his write up on his install. I used a lot of his information to hook things up and make my buying decisions.
That being said! I am pretty proud/happy with the results and maybe it will help someone else pull the trigger. Plenty of photos ahead!
——————-
So I knew i did not want to cut into anything or remove anything major in order to get some extra bass in my truck. Nor did I want to replace the head unit.
Here are a list of the products/equipment I used:
- Skar Audio 800w amp: 800w Amp
- Skar Audio 6.5” subs: Subs
- Skar Audio 4 gauge wiring kit: wires
- Kicker LOC line output converter: LOC
- Ferrule cable ends: Kit
-Sound Mekanix Speaker Terminal: eBay link here
I ran the power wire along the firewall and used an existing bolt hole under the hood padding piece in the corner to secure the wire near the battery.
I then ran the power wire through the rubber gasket near the brake master cylinder. I drilled a hole and inserted a grommet and ran the cable through.
I ran the power cable under the dash and behind the center console, under the passenger side of the center console and pulled it out under the front passenger seat.
I removed the passenger front seat and used an existing ground bolt for my amplifier which is under the passenger seat. See my post here for more pics on that.
From the amplifier I ran the RCAs up the B pillar on the passenger side to a Line output converter (LOC) that was installed behind the seat belt within that plastic housing. See Tewltalk‘s (@Brfertig) post here.
The speaker wire that would hook up to the subs was run along the channel on the floor and popped out underneath this metal bracket that you will see when you flip up your passenger side rear seat:
Onto the box!
I wanted it to fit under the longer side of the rear seat. But wanted to keep the space under the shorter side of the seat as storage.
Again I measure from floor to base of the seat at it‘s tallest and then the toward the base at the bottom of our seats slope.
A wedge box was in order. I guess I should say here I’ve never built a box of any kind either haha. See pics below.
Project manager ^
Notice the bolt housing!^
Once I got everything together the holes were cut for the subs and the speaker wire connector.
The speakers just barely clear the factory floor mats but they do and that is what‘s important. Also the box was made as long as possible to just avoid that corner of the floor mat as well.
Once the fit was correct and I tested the subs to make sure my wiring was all correct (big moment of relief there!) I removed the left speaker in order to drill a hole and reinstall the factory bolt to the floor mount. Hopefully this will slow down thieves when I have the doors removed haha!
The speakers sound awesome! Not winning any contests but I like mostly hardcore music, pop, dance stuff and occasional rap/hip-hop. They fit the bill perfect. Quick punchy hits. Nice sustained notes. Also I can turn down the bass on my head unit to allow my highs and mids to play louder and cleanly, while I adjust the remote bass knob that came with the amp to turn up the subs where I want them.
They will mostly live under my dog’s seat cover haha
I’d be happy to answer any questions about the process or provide additional pics if someone needs something.
(Also the pictures are huge but when I posted them smaller they were rotated?? Not sure but sorry for the heavy pic downloading)
Cheers!
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